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Good Morning everyone, I am new to this site and seeking some experienced advice. I have a 2005 Ford Mustang v6 with 130,000 miles and recently it developed a belt squeak. It was worse when first starting and improved as the engine started heating up. This entire issue started and ended over a weeks time. I checked the pulleys and nothing seemed rough I started replacing suspected parts. I replaced the water pump, serpentine belt, idler pulley, torsion pulley, ac compressor, power steering pump and had the alternator checked at the local parts store. I noticed belt dust around the alternator as well. I still had squeak! I flushed the power steering fluid and the squeak improved. I assumed that it could some impacted rubber from the old belt so I took off what I could and took the car out for a run. I had good power and minimal to no squeaking. As a side note I did buy this car from someone that did racing as a side hobby but not with this car. This car also had an H pipe exhaust and an aggressive profile which led me to believe it may have been tuned. It did have a habit of a noticeable “bump” or sudden accelation when running a hard acceleration and shifting into that low gear. This time when I tried hard acceleration it stated then suddenly the engine died. It would crank but wouldn’t start. I tried to use starter fluid and only got a struggled cough out of her. I have the BlueDriver obd2 with codes P2106 and P0320. My thought is maybe the timing chain? Perhaps the squeak was the harmonic balancer? If anyone can offer any advice or opinions or suggestions on what to look for on the obd2 I would greatly appreciate it!
Code p0320 Ignition engine speed circuit. Possible resolves camshaft sensor, crank shaft sensor, harmonic balancer. So since my last post I have discovered there is no spark. This leads me to believe either by complete coincidence an entirely unrelated issues suddenly occurred while addressing the squeak and belt issue or the cam shaft or crank shaft sensor do not sync correctly because something happened to the timing chain as the issue occurred the moment I did a hard acceleration. If it was the harmonic balancer then perhaps the crankshaft and camshaft are detecting something wrong that happened during the acceleration and simply killed the spark? I have the sensors ordered however based on the other symptoms I doubt it’s a sensor issue. Can someone tell me if I have good compression at about 160 and the motor shows no indication of sounding any different when trying to crank and the crank shaft turns all accessories and belt when cranking can it be a timing chain or internal engine damage?
V6 has a coil pack, if that's bad, no spark. I have a factory one for sale,
$35.00 shipped. Used, but it works. I bought an Accel SuperCoil.
Very easy to replace. If you were off time, you'd still have spark.
If the cam or crank sensor is bad, no spark. Timing is not the same
as a bad sensor.
My thought was the harmonic balancer may have thrown the crank or chain out enough so that it throws that code and prevents the spark. I’ll find out tomorrow as amazon sent me the wrong sensor.
If the timing chain skips, and the car goes out of time, it won't throw a code
because the crank and cam sensors are still working. At most, the cam
sensor would not be in sync with the crank sensor, and throw a code, but
not the chain itself. You can skip three teeth, the car run like total crap,
but it won't prevent spark. A non working Crank or Cam sensor can. If the
ECU doesn't get any readings from the crank sensor, then it won't
start. If it doesn't receive anything from the CAM sensor, it won't
start. IF the chain skipped a teeth or two, it can start, and run like
crap. There is no hall sensor for the CHAIN.
Thanks mustang dude, i appreciate your time to reply and assist in my stang issue. I have a new development, when I pulled my crankshaft sensor I noticed the crank pulley was grinding into the sensor. The pulley looks to have moved almost 1/2” in towards the block. Because of where the sensor sits between the crank pulley and the block it was ground down until it stopped responding. I assume now I need to replace the crank shaft pulley and Harmonic balancer to fix the issue?
Yeah, I don't know what would cause the pulley to make contact with the sensor.
I would think the sensor was loose, and hitting the crank. Put the new sensor
on, tighten it down and see if the crank is hitting the sensor. You would not be
able to install it if the pulley was in the way...
You're gonna need a new harmonic balancer then. What happens is, with the heat,
if the layers separate or slip, the timing marks shift and thus throw off the placement
of the timing marks. This will make it difficult, if not impossible to time the engine. So,
yeah, even with a new sensor, the timing marks would be off. Not only that, yours
moved inward. You should be able to see that, the crank pulley will be more dished inward.
Also, if the the rubber layer in the harmonic balancer dries or wears out, it can cause the entire
harmonic balancer to completely fail by separating. If the harmonic balancer separates,
the engine belts will usually come off and the vehicle will be left without engine accessories.
Since you're going to need a new crank pulley, and if you have the extra money, get an
underdrive pulley. That will reduce the accessory pulleys parasitic loss, and get a little
more power to the wheels. It does not ADD horse power, and TQ, it increases WHP,
while BHP remains the same.
03-05-2019, 08:20 AM
2005 v6, Crank, no start
