RetiredGeneral

Long story short, I'm about to install a new timing set in my 2005 GT. I've had it since new, and it's got 200,000 miles on it (actually, I'm about 50 miles short of that goal). Its got a manual trans, and some basic upgrades (CAI, tune, gears, exidy clutch, one-piece driveshaft).

I'll be doing the whole package... phasers, chains, guides, etc. But what else should I replace while I'm in there? I'm planning to do the water pump, thermostat, and hoses, but what else? Oil pump? Will I even be able to get the oil pump out without dropping the pan? Let me know what you think.

Thanks,

Derf00

If you're doing the timing components you may as well drop the pan. I've heard/seen that the timing components on the 3V motors can be done without dropping the pan but, you will most likely have a leak where the timing cover meets the pan once you break the seal. That seal is almost 20 years old and while the oil pan gasket is reusable, age has compressed it and made it brittle.

So, having said all that. Drop the pan and do the oil pump. If it were my vehicle, i'd take it a step further and do rod bearings. You do not need to drop the crank or remove the heads to do them. You can simply rotate the crank assembly to gain access to each rod bearings as needed. You should be fine with standard rod bearings. Obviously you do not want to replace the rod bearings unless all of the timing components are connected correctly so that the entire valve train also moves in sync.

Don't forget once you are done with everything, before cranking it up, you'll want to pull the fuel pump fuse and just let the starter spin the engine assembly for 30 seconds to a minute to prime the new timing components and oil pump.Then fire it up.

RetiredGeneral

Thanks for the tips. I really don't want to get THAT deep into it. I have plans to pull the engine and get it rebuilt... but that is just a little further down the road. So I don't want to do the rod bearings now. I also don't want to deal with hoisting the engine to get the pan off. I'd rather take my chances and try to keep the front from leaking now, then deal with the complete rebuild later.

Anything else? What about cam or crank position sensors? Does it make sense to do those too, or is that a waste of $$$?

Derf00

Oops, I meant 15 years old, not 20...basic math. If you're getting the motor rebuilt, why do the timing components then? Do you have some noise that is making you concerned?

If you still go ahead with them, just use some RTV around the entire underside of the timing cover where it meets the oil pan gasket to prevent leaks. RTV is usually frowned upon for reusable gaskets but without it, you will probably get a leak.

Dino Dino Bambino

If you have good compression on all cylinders with minimal oil consumption, you won't need to rebuild the engine for a very long time. Therefore I agree with the advice to replace the oil pump and the rod bearings while the front of the engine is exposed. Since you're going to replace the cam followers and lash adjusters at the top of the engine, I'd strongly recommend pulling the valve springs to replace the valve stem oil seals. At 200k miles old they're probably hardened and allowing some oil to seep past the valve stems. Blue exhaust smoke on cold start up and during deceleration gives that away.

djbeach99

I just replaced all gaskets and timing chains in my 2006 mustang 4.0 v6. Had a couple mechanic friends help and we used the special tools required to have an easy installation of the timing components, can't imagine not having them. Everything went smooth but now it wont start due to something electrical. I recommend you take caution when moving your wiring harness around as it could have a wire just about ready to become disconnected etc...A good once over never hurts.

RetiredGeneral

Thanks again.

Derf00 - Yes, serious noise. I can hear the chain banging at low rpms, and there is tons of bogging. I took it to Ford just to confirm, and their diagnosis was the same as mine. They want $3,650 to do the job.

Dino - Compression is good (considering I've got 200K on the engine), and oil consumption is minimal. Like you said, I sometimes get a little smoke on start up, and I'm sure its valve seals or guides. I wasn't planning to remove the cams or touch the rockers or any of that. I'll have to think about that. I don't want to touch the rod bearings. With my luck I'll find the crank is scored, and I'll be in for even more time and $$$. That is my biggest concern. I just want it running. It has been well maintained, and this has been the only problem since new, and I don't want to start opening things up if I don't have to. I'm planning to rebuild it down the road anyway, maybe next summer, so if this will get me another year without dropping more cash, I'll be happy. Plans include a supercharger, but I'm going to wait until I do the rebuild, and I'll make sure to upgrade the bottom end when I do.

djbeach99 - Yeah, wires can become brittle, and there are TONS of wires on these new (newish) cars. I'm an old school car-guy and I've been wrenching since I was 13. Restoring classics is a hobby, so I've got the tools and experience to deal with this.

Dino Dino Bambino

OK. In that case use a mechanical gauge to check the oil pressure at hot idle. If it's at least 20psi, the rod/main bearings are fine and you can leave them alone.

sp44

I'm doing the same thing on my 2005. I'll let you know what the mechanic recommends but that's not til June 4th. They are booked for a bit. I already bought the timing chain kit and Melling High Volume Oil Pump.

RetiredGeneral

Thanks for the help. I got it all done and it runs great. Since everything was pulled away from the engine, and I'm mostly into old-school muscle cars, I slapped a coat of Ford Blue on the engine.