I wanna go carb'd
#13
How hard will this be to remove the computer harness. Is it difficult to seperate it from the chassis harness? I have pretty much everything else removed as far as the motor goes, acessories all that. So now Im at the harness part
#17
Underneath the brake booster there's 2 round connectors, a grey one and a black one. That's where the computer harness meets the chassis harness, disconnect them and pull the main harness out, getting the computer connector through the hole in the firewall can be a bit tricky but just work it and it will eventually come out.
As far as the stock gauges, your connections will be made underneath the booster at the 2 connectors I mentioned above. To get the stock tach to work, on the grey connector, tap into the dark green wire with the yellow trace. On the black connector harness, tap into the red wire with the white trace to get your water temp gauge to work and on the same black harness, tap into the white wire with the red trace to get your oil pressure gauge to work. The stock fuel gauge and volt gauges will still work.
Make sense?
As far as the stock gauges, your connections will be made underneath the booster at the 2 connectors I mentioned above. To get the stock tach to work, on the grey connector, tap into the dark green wire with the yellow trace. On the black connector harness, tap into the red wire with the white trace to get your water temp gauge to work and on the same black harness, tap into the white wire with the red trace to get your oil pressure gauge to work. The stock fuel gauge and volt gauges will still work.
Make sense?
#20
No, splice your wire going to the negative side of the coil or the tach out on your ignition/distributor or whatever your setup is to the wire going into the connector underneath the booster. For my car, I just snipped the wire a couple inches before the connector and soldered in my wire that goes to the tach port on my distributor.