ri_stang_owner

I have a few questions about my SD mustang, now before i get the typical answers of search the forums or convert to MAF, i have already researched quite a bit and still have some questions and i'm not looking to do more work than i have to so if i can stay SD i'd prefer to. I'd like those who have dealt with or have SD cars to jump in on this as much as possible.

The setup i want to run for my daily driver is this: AFR 165cc heads, edelbrock rpmII intake, 70mm TB, CompCams 1.7 rockers, possibly 24# injectors if needed, 3.73 gears, Eibach shock strut and springs, MM subframes, and PAPerformance 130 amp alternator.

Will i need to modify my speed density system with this setup or something similar to it? if so how?
Issues you have run into while running a similar setup on your own car with SD?

Thank you in advance for all the help.

dawson1112

If your not swapping the cam I wouldn't worry about to much. Cam selection is the most important thing with the SD cars, because most after market cams create less vacuum and the SD system uses a predetermined idle vacuum amount greater duration cams reduce vacuum causing idle issues. You can run aftermarket heads, intakes , and headers , but since the map sensor cant read air flow you may be some what limited in HP.

ri_stang_owner

awesome thanks for the info. I've heard of some people buying a custom grind cam to counteract this problem but im thinking if i start diving into changing the internals it won't be for quite a few years and by then i'll probably do the MAF when its more convenient. I'm not worried about limited HP because im not looking for a radical setup by the parts i listed, just a fun safe DD with a lil more gallop than stock. Any recommendations on do's and don'ts with anything? also do you think i'd be safe with stock injectors on these?

dawson1112

Honestly I think youll do just fine with the 19lb injectors that are in the car. I am fairly sure that if you go to a 24lb injector youd need to have a tune done to keep it from running rich, Im not to sure on the speed density since going to bigger injectors on a maf car you can tune for them with the maf. On the SD any thing greater than stock injectors on your stock eec will require some kind of tune and to do that youd need a chip and a wideband to look at the a/f ratio. Further down the road if you want to add more power to it you should look at going to MAF.

Also if you can I would defiantly do the 3.73 gear swap, that would wake that ride up considerably all by it self.

ri_stang_owner

i put the 24# injectors as a possibility in case the car is running lean but thats the only reason i'd bump it up. the 3.73's are the first thing going in the car pretty much ha that and the subframe connectors and all the suspension mods possibly in one big weekend since they all coincide practically. last things to go in will actually probably be the heads and intake, i want the car to handle well before more power is added.

dawson1112

The sub frame connectors are really nice I have em on mine, they definatly keep the car planted and a lot more stable feeling when you jump on the throttle hard. I would think about getting some upper and lower control arms as well.

ri_stang_owner

Yeah the full length welded subframe connectors im thinking is almost a priority with any mustang. I was looking at them but was unsure, what do they offer other than just replacing another part that can cause problems? im still semi new to this.

dawson1112

If your asking what the control arms do. The stock control arms have a lot of flex in them , this is fine under normal conditions and at stock power. How ever once you start adding a lot of extra torque from power adders and gears they flex too much this can cause such issues as snap over steer , pinion bind, wheel hop, as well as the axle to shift out of alignment on hard acceleration giving you the feeling of the rear end sliding out.

The sub frame connectors give a lot of rigidity to the body and help stop the body flex , also assist in dumping some of the weight from the front to the back upon launch. Normally with out them upon a hard launch the front comes up but the body flexes and twists , when you tie the rear sub frame in to the front it stops most of this flex and forces that energy to the rear tires giving better traction.

I am sure there is someone on here that can explain it better than I can , and Im not an expert in suspension. But both control arms and sub frame connectors are a great benefit.

ri_stang_owner

this morning i just looked up control arms, i'm thinking of going with the J&M weight jacker lowers and then uppers to match. Based on the reviews everyone loves them and they last a long time so should be a worthy investment that i won't have to worry about a few years down the road.

87 T TOP GT302

Thank you for your service to our country. I know yesterday was veterans day and all of those whom serve or have served deserve our respect.
As for your project you can try the 19lb injectors first to see if it bogs. On my 87 I use to run the 19s but the car seemed too lean. With the 24's it's a lot better.