Jazzer The Cat

The UMI uppers linked from Summit are an upgrade over your OEM and certainly the eurothane arms you considered, in terms of suspension function. But, if you are planning to go PHB and TA one day, you can just leave the OEM rubber bushings in the uppers for now. The spherical UMI's will had LOTS of NVH (as wil ALL manufacturers with this design), but free up the rear axle a bit for sure. Depending on how long prior to going 3-link and knowing you will need to discard them when you do, you can go with them.

Brakes... Take a look at Brakes Upgrade thread (sig) and just go with the upgrades mentioned in there. Don't know what system you have on there now, but usually see an SN95 conversion to disc brakes on the Fox Body. So long as the calipers/rotors are not worn out or damaged in some way, just go 5.1 or better fluid, pads and SS lines for a MAJOR improvement in your brakes. Be sure to also upgrade the single rubber hose leading from the center of the axle to the body on the rear brake line. I was unable to find such a replacement for my '85 GT when I did my brakes many years ago. I figure one is probably available now.

Dampers... knowledge on these are not my strong suite at all The section on them in my guide is part the "copy/paste" portion mentioned early on in the guide. A friend added a bit of info, but not sure which part. Just make sure the valving of dampers is matched properly to the spring rate and is important for ride to be as advertised by both springs and dampers.

As for what is a good starting point for suspension upgrades?

1. FLSFC's ~ critical on the Fox Body and especially for things like AX
2. LCA's ~ Take a look at the list of ones I like and why, in this guide
3. Decision time...

Jazzer

cydonian man

hey Jazzer,
i own an 07 mustang gt. with ford racing stage 3 handling pack. the height is 1.5" lower than stock. i noticed some uneven tread wear. so i asumed the lowered suspension effected teh camber angle. i installed the Maximum Motorsports caster cambers and was able to get the suspention alignment into the green. but noticed that i have a popping noise in the front end. it occurs when i am pulling in and out of my driveway which is inclined. also once in a while the front end will pop when i brake hard to a stop.
is this popping normal?

cyd

Jazzer The Cat

Sounds like it may be the spring moving in one of the perches. Get it up in the air and pull the front wheel. Take a look up on there for rub marks where the spring meets in to the upper and lower mounts. Make sure the car is well supported by the frame and/or cradle and push/pull on the struts and work them around a bit. Confirm everything that was removed/loosened to install the CC plates, is now torqued down to proper specs and reinstalled how they were removed. Be sure to check EVERYTHING that was touched during that time.

Jazzer

cydonian man

yeah, i'll have to take it to the shop and have them do that.

thanks

93five-0

Good to know, the car will still be street driven the majority of the time so that's good info. I think SFCs, spherical LCAs, rubber UCAs, springs and adjustable dampers are the way I'm going until the TA setup. Thanks.

As for the brakes, I'm a little confused. I want to do the simple upgrades you describe first (SS lines, good pads/fluid, etc). But, is converting to SN95 rotors and calipers part of those "simple upgrades"? Or, can I retain the 1993
fox front rotors and calipers? Going SN95 means a spindle change, right?

Bottom line, is an upgrade to SS lines, Hawk pads, good rotors, 5.1 fluid with stock 93 rotors and calipers going make a big difference or or am I better off doing the SN95 rotor swap first?

Sorry to be a pain, I was just a little fuzzy on this...Thanks!

Jazzer The Cat

Your OEM rotors/calipers are just fine, only need the fluid, lines and pads for wonderful brakes. This will make a big difference, but really only in conditions where your existing set-up would get hot. That is to say, the upgrades recommended in my guide are for your brakes to be MUCH more resiliant to heat, prior to issues of brake fade. If your car can lock up the wheels right now, these will NOT help you to stop better. They will help you to still have braking power, when your existing stuff would get soaked with heat and turn into a sponge.

Jazzer

Justfloatn

Great thread and very nice of you to share your knowledge. I skimmed through to see if my question had been ask and did not spot it. Sorry if I missed it.

I have a 96 S281 Speedster I am restoring/slightly modifying and need to rebuild the suspension. I had settled on the J&M upper and lower with their 3 piece flex bushing. But after reading this I'm not sure. The car is strictly street driven but I do love charging an open freeway on-ramp now and then. The motor is being built NA 290-305 RWHP. Do you have any experience or opinion on the J&M arms and bushings as an upgrade to the stock rubber?

Thank You

Jazzer The Cat

Welcome, Justflloatn and thank you

While I think the 3-piece poly-ball design is probably an improvement over the OEM rubber, the solid arms probably negate the upside. The OEM arms are not only semi-forgiving due to soft rubber bushings, but the arms themselves are flexable. There is just a poor relationship between the suspension fuction and design of the UCA location and feel the rear end should be as free as possible. I think the NVH will be improved (less) with the poly-ball design over a set of sphericals, but I just don't think one should get rid of the OEM ones to look for improvement and not free it up as much as possible. I heard this design allows like 60% more freedom of movement (don't quote me there), but a spherical ball offers 100% better freedom.

If you are going so far as to replace the uppers for improved performance, I recommend you go spherical bearing.

Jazzer

cbc24

Hey Great post !! i was just wonder which kit youd recommend most for Drifting, my dream has always been too drift a 99-04 style stang. I see MM's Road and track box pack is not to bad and costs 2500$? would you say its worth it or is there better? I have a nissan 180sx right now but been a blue oval fan since the day i was born. Thanks

Jazzer The Cat

I don't know of any drift specific suspensions, but more the theory of what you need to drift.

1. very soft front springs/dampers, very stiff rear springs/dampers
2. LOTS and LOTS of HP/T
3. Probably more steering angle needed than found on an OEM SN95

No doubt there is more needed, but I have limited knowledge on the subject, as The Kitty likes to keep all four tires firmly planted on the road surface