TxFireman1972

The car (89 coupe) will be going to the chassis shop next week to have the SFC's pulled out and redone correctly. It had through the floor subframes that were poorly done. He's ripping all of that out and redoing it right. While its in there I'm going to have him look at the torque boxes and see what he can do with them. I had already ordered the Wild Rides battle boxes for the lower torque boxes, so I'll be taking those to him. I'll see what he wants to do with the torque boxes and go from there. Since he'll have to pull the control arms loose anyway, I was thinking about picking up some new control arms to put in while he's at it.

I'm also probably going to go ahead and do springs/shocks. I believe right now it just has cut factory coils, and maybe even factory (or cheap replacement) shocks.

Just curious what a good starting setup would be as far as control arms, shocks, and coils, without completely breaking the bank. This car will be driven primarily on the street, with the occasional trips to the track, so I don't want to build an all out drag suspension. Also definitely not looking to build a road racer or cornering monster. I've read till I'm blue in the face, and there are lots of different directions out there. I know Maximum Motorsports is the suspension of choice, be even MM has lots of choices. Looking for some real world input from real world owners. Ideas and suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

I did pick up a set of Megabite JR's. Couldn't pass them up for $75/shipped to the door. I might give them a try for that price lol.



Any ideas, suggestions, or opinions would be great.

Jazzer The Cat

I am not a fan of poly/poly bushed LCA's

They introduce additional bind, to one already over-burdened with it in the 4-link. This means, my recommendation is to NOT use those pictured above, but rather one with a spherical bearing at one side. For your described needs, just about any one with this criteria. I happen to prefer those with the spherical bearing on the TB end, rather than the axle side. Not a big deal, but the movement/inter-action with the sway bar is a smoother one this way.

Ultimately, the strength of a suspension or driveline part should be dictated by the amount of rear grip, rather than HP/T and how often one goes to the launch-pad. One might run 850/745 HP/T and garbage A/S tires and never blow a clutch, trans, rear end or snap an axle with 500 digs off the line. On the other hand, one can have OEM HP/T numbers with a set of M/T's at exactly the right pressure and temperatures and break any of those things on a single launch, if combined with some bad luck.

Do you already have TB damage and why are you installing Battle Boxes if you don't plan on but occcasional trips to the 1/4 mile? Don't get me wrong, they can only help with ANY trips to the track, but sounds like maybe that "occasional trip" may get "more occasional" over time?

Jazzer welcomes the Fireman to MF's

TxFireman1972

I do have a little TB damage already. I'm also having them completely taken care of so it's not a problem in the future. I just like to do it right the first time. And it will probably turn into more than an occasional trip lol.

Thanks for the welcome.