Lowering prings on a '13 GT, noob question
06-08-2012, 12:29 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: canada
Posts: 9
Lowering prings on a '13 GT, noob question
I'll be picking up my new '13 GT next week, and I've already started a list of mods to my "wish list". One of the first mods will be lowering it; nothing extreme, maybe 1 1.5" tops. This is my DD, and I will not be taking it to the track, but want to improve the appearance of it. I think lowering it is a good idea, and I've read several threads in this forum, but I'm getting a bit confused.
I'm looking at either a set of Eibach Pro springs, which will lower the car 1" front and 1.5" rear (http://www.americanmuscle.com/eibach...-2011gtv6.html). The other option I looked at was Ford Racing Lowering P-Springs, which will lower both the front and back 1" (http://www.americanmuscle.com/p-springs-2011-gt.html).
Seeing that I will not be racing this car, will I still need new strut mounts, caster camber plates, or other components?
I'm looking at either a set of Eibach Pro springs, which will lower the car 1" front and 1.5" rear (http://www.americanmuscle.com/eibach...-2011gtv6.html). The other option I looked at was Ford Racing Lowering P-Springs, which will lower both the front and back 1" (http://www.americanmuscle.com/p-springs-2011-gt.html).
Seeing that I will not be racing this car, will I still need new strut mounts, caster camber plates, or other components?
06-08-2012, 06:38 PM
#2
Retired Moderator
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 9,235
Welcome to MF's, Raf 
No... you don't "have" to get CC plates or dampers..... but they are recommended. Running OEM dampers on lowered springs, creates a harsher ride than advertised by the spring manufacturer. Reason being, is they are designed to be at a certain height and when the car is lowered, they are in a semi-compressed state. This leaves them in a more resitant position, as they are acting like you are ALREADY going over a bump, when you are just driving down a smooth road. When you hit a bump, they respond more harshly as they compress farther to avoid bottoming out or pogoing down the street. The lower you go the more dramatic this effect, so a properly valved set of dampers to go with the new springs is really nice.
Second, CC plates will allow you to address the negative camber that will come with lowering. If you were really into cornering, I would say don't bother with them. Since you are not looking to track your car, you may want to install them to allow OEM specs on alignment for improved tire life.
Third... be advised that with suspension mods come a certain amount of NVH (Noise Vibration Harshness), but do not expect much at all with your proposed mods. CC plates WILL add a bit, but with a brand new car and OEM tires, I would not expect much at all.
Jazzer
No... you don't "have" to get CC plates or dampers..... but they are recommended. Running OEM dampers on lowered springs, creates a harsher ride than advertised by the spring manufacturer. Reason being, is they are designed to be at a certain height and when the car is lowered, they are in a semi-compressed state. This leaves them in a more resitant position, as they are acting like you are ALREADY going over a bump, when you are just driving down a smooth road. When you hit a bump, they respond more harshly as they compress farther to avoid bottoming out or pogoing down the street. The lower you go the more dramatic this effect, so a properly valved set of dampers to go with the new springs is really nice.
Second, CC plates will allow you to address the negative camber that will come with lowering. If you were really into cornering, I would say don't bother with them. Since you are not looking to track your car, you may want to install them to allow OEM specs on alignment for improved tire life.
Third... be advised that with suspension mods come a certain amount of NVH (Noise Vibration Harshness), but do not expect much at all with your proposed mods. CC plates WILL add a bit, but with a brand new car and OEM tires, I would not expect much at all.
Jazzer
06-22-2012, 08:05 AM
#5
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Arizona
Posts: 160
I bought the cc plates because I thought 1.5 drop would absolutely create too much neg camber. I didn't install them at first just to see where it would fall...
Turns out that it gave me -1.4 each side which is inside stock specs.
I went for alignment to dealer and they said the 2013 tend to fall within spec for some reason... They've done 4 and none have needed the cc plates.
Turns out that it gave me -1.4 each side which is inside stock specs.
I went for alignment to dealer and they said the 2013 tend to fall within spec for some reason... They've done 4 and none have needed the cc plates.
06-22-2012, 04:31 PM
#6
I'll be picking up my new '13 GT next week, and I've already started a list of mods to my "wish list". One of the first mods will be lowering it; nothing extreme, maybe 1 1.5" tops. This is my DD, and I will not be taking it to the track, but want to improve the appearance of it. I think lowering it is a good idea, and I've read several threads in this forum, but I'm getting a bit confused.
I'm looking at either a set of Eibach Pro springs, which will lower the car 1" front and 1.5" rear (http://www.americanmuscle.com/eibach...-2011gtv6.html). The other option I looked at was Ford Racing Lowering P-Springs, which will lower both the front and back 1" (http://www.americanmuscle.com/p-springs-2011-gt.html).
Seeing that I will not be racing this car, will I still need new strut mounts, caster camber plates, or other components?
I'm looking at either a set of Eibach Pro springs, which will lower the car 1" front and 1.5" rear (http://www.americanmuscle.com/eibach...-2011gtv6.html). The other option I looked at was Ford Racing Lowering P-Springs, which will lower both the front and back 1" (http://www.americanmuscle.com/p-springs-2011-gt.html).
Seeing that I will not be racing this car, will I still need new strut mounts, caster camber plates, or other components?
Congrats on your new 13! They're awesome and probably one of the coolest looking Mustangs, yet! The taillights, grill and interior make the car and it performs its *** off!
We chose to go with either the SR Performance lowering springs or Eibach Pro Kit lowering springs on all of our Project Cars. They're both really good quality springs that are manufactured to have spring rates comfortable enough to keep ride quality in tact but aggressive enough to handle quite a bit!
The drops on both springs are very similar, but the Eibach kit does 1" in the front and 1.5" in the back, whereas the SR Performance springs drop it an even 1.5" all the way around. It takes a while before the springs will settle to that level, but either kit will get you an immediate 1"-1.25" difference in the back and .5"-1" difference in the front.
You shouldn't need to worry about caster/camber adjustment with these kits, because they keep it under 1.5" and can be aligned without any extra adjustment. You'll notice a huge difference in reduced nose-dive during braking, cornering and the stance will be awesome, especially with some aftermarket wheels/tires!
You don't NEED aftermarket shocks/struts, but the option is there. Any aftermarket shock/strut will be better for an aftermarket spring, because it's set up for a more aggressive stance. The Tokico, KYB, Bilstein or Koni are all great quality if you find that you're looking for a little bit more comfort in the ride.
SR Performance 10-13 Mustang Lowering Springs at AmericanMuscle.com - Free Shipping!
Eibach 10-13 Mustang Lowering Springs at AmericanMuscle.com - Free Shipping!
Shocks and Struts for 10-13 Mustang at AmericanMuscle.com - Free Shipping!
Hope this helps! We'd love to see some before/after pictures if you decide to grab them. Let me know if you have any questions at all!
06-23-2012, 10:35 AM
#7
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: canada
Posts: 9
Hey Raf,
Congrats on your new 13! They're awesome and probably one of the coolest looking Mustangs, yet! The taillights, grill and interior make the car and it performs its *** off!
We chose to go with either the SR Performance lowering springs or Eibach Pro Kit lowering springs on all of our Project Cars. They're both really good quality springs that are manufactured to have spring rates comfortable enough to keep ride quality in tact but aggressive enough to handle quite a bit!
The drops on both springs are very similar, but the Eibach kit does 1" in the front and 1.5" in the back, whereas the SR Performance springs drop it an even 1.5" all the way around. It takes a while before the springs will settle to that level, but either kit will get you an immediate 1"-1.25" difference in the back and .5"-1" difference in the front.
You shouldn't need to worry about caster/camber adjustment with these kits, because they keep it under 1.5" and can be aligned without any extra adjustment. You'll notice a huge difference in reduced nose-dive during braking, cornering and the stance will be awesome, especially with some aftermarket wheels/tires!
You don't NEED aftermarket shocks/struts, but the option is there. Any aftermarket shock/strut will be better for an aftermarket spring, because it's set up for a more aggressive stance. The Tokico, KYB, Bilstein or Koni are all great quality if you find that you're looking for a little bit more comfort in the ride.
SR Performance 10-13 Mustang Lowering Springs at AmericanMuscle.com - Free Shipping!
Eibach 10-13 Mustang Lowering Springs at AmericanMuscle.com - Free Shipping!
Shocks and Struts for 10-13 Mustang at AmericanMuscle.com - Free Shipping!
Hope this helps! We'd love to see some before/after pictures if you decide to grab them. Let me know if you have any questions at all!
Congrats on your new 13! They're awesome and probably one of the coolest looking Mustangs, yet! The taillights, grill and interior make the car and it performs its *** off!
We chose to go with either the SR Performance lowering springs or Eibach Pro Kit lowering springs on all of our Project Cars. They're both really good quality springs that are manufactured to have spring rates comfortable enough to keep ride quality in tact but aggressive enough to handle quite a bit!
The drops on both springs are very similar, but the Eibach kit does 1" in the front and 1.5" in the back, whereas the SR Performance springs drop it an even 1.5" all the way around. It takes a while before the springs will settle to that level, but either kit will get you an immediate 1"-1.25" difference in the back and .5"-1" difference in the front.
You shouldn't need to worry about caster/camber adjustment with these kits, because they keep it under 1.5" and can be aligned without any extra adjustment. You'll notice a huge difference in reduced nose-dive during braking, cornering and the stance will be awesome, especially with some aftermarket wheels/tires!
You don't NEED aftermarket shocks/struts, but the option is there. Any aftermarket shock/strut will be better for an aftermarket spring, because it's set up for a more aggressive stance. The Tokico, KYB, Bilstein or Koni are all great quality if you find that you're looking for a little bit more comfort in the ride.
SR Performance 10-13 Mustang Lowering Springs at AmericanMuscle.com - Free Shipping!
Eibach 10-13 Mustang Lowering Springs at AmericanMuscle.com - Free Shipping!
Shocks and Struts for 10-13 Mustang at AmericanMuscle.com - Free Shipping!
Hope this helps! We'd love to see some before/after pictures if you decide to grab them. Let me know if you have any questions at all!
What about noise? I've read on several other thread replies that once aftermarket springs are installed, the car makes groaning on creaking sounds... Is this something I need to be concerned about with the relatively small drop I'm looking at achieving with my car???
06-23-2012, 11:30 AM
#8
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Texas
Posts: 195
I just put a set of the Eibach pro springs on mine Thursday. I've only driven it about 80 miles or so but I have not heard any groaning or creaking and I've gone over several speed bumps with no issues. I'm terrible at taking pictures but here are a few from my phone camera.
06-24-2012, 03:19 PM
#9
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: CO
Posts: 310
That looks great Mojobama!
OP - My opinion on the groan and creaks is that something was missed or not done right. In my case I was not able to tighten he sway bar end links properly, but once I went through all of the possibilities, I found it and corrected it.
Make sure the springs are positioned properly, make sure all of the bumpers and cushions are put in place correctly, and make sure all the bolts are tightened to the proper torques and my guess is everything will be great.
Good luck
OP - My opinion on the groan and creaks is that something was missed or not done right. In my case I was not able to tighten he sway bar end links properly, but once I went through all of the possibilities, I found it and corrected it.
Make sure the springs are positioned properly, make sure all of the bumpers and cushions are put in place correctly, and make sure all the bolts are tightened to the proper torques and my guess is everything will be great.
Good luck
06-24-2012, 07:11 PM
#10
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Arizona
Posts: 160
Zero graon or creek from my set up...
FRPP K springs shocks and struts. No cc plates needed.
You will want to likely cut your jounce stops to cut down on them thumping the frame...
They're just too tall.
Cutting them by a half inch or so still leaves a lot of meat in place for protection but just keeps them from hitting a lot more. It's the one thing that Frod Racing should have done with those stops (make em shorter and maybe make the top 30% of meat a lot softer).
FRPP K springs shocks and struts. No cc plates needed.
You will want to likely cut your jounce stops to cut down on them thumping the frame...
They're just too tall.
Cutting them by a half inch or so still leaves a lot of meat in place for protection but just keeps them from hitting a lot more. It's the one thing that Frod Racing should have done with those stops (make em shorter and maybe make the top 30% of meat a lot softer).