harry365

I have 83gt fox body has after market upper and lower fixed control arms. 8.8 rear diff. With a new ford racing posit unit 4:10 gear running 275/50r15 Mickey Thompson street radial. When I use the line lock for a burnout I get bad wheel hop was told the right wheel was hopping. Any ideas on how to stop that.

zinc02gt

Hate to sound offensive or anything, but are your tires balanced? What gear burnout? Does it only hop during burnout or does it do it through the 60' as well?

harry365

I use the line lock and 1st gear burnout instantly starts bad wheel hop

harry365

I use the line lock and 1st gear burnout instantly starts bad wheel hop

Z28KLR

What control arms are you using - and more specifically what are the bushings constructed of? And are they in good condition? Any recent changes that might correspond with the wheel hop or has it always had this issue?

Given that you have aftermarket upper and lower arms, wheel hop should be nonexistent for the most part. That's why they make 'em, y'know...

Derf00

^^ Wheel hop is usually a byproduct of softer bushing materials and suspension geometry. When you get the rotational and torsional force of a burnout going on, softer durometer materials do exactly what they are supposed to do, absorb the impact/energy of the vibrations created from the stress. It's also known as Noise, Vibration, and Harshness (NVH). The problem is, they also rebound (give), this creates a bungee cord effect with the constant stretching and bouncing back of the rubber as it tries to absorb the energy which is what leads to wheel hop.

Stiffer bushings (higher durometer) don't have as much give so they aren't stretching and bouncing back as much. This is great because you don't get the wheel hop but, increases the amount of NVH transmitted to the frame your butt and your ears. Thus the disclaimer on most high durometer bushings that you will get an increase of NVH.

There's also shock and spring stiffness to play into it. Cushy or worn shocks springs will allow the axle to move more than it should which will add to the problem.

Geometry also plays into wheel hop, If your axle isn't positioned correctly in relation to the rest of the drive train or the car (you have a dog tracking rear) you're more likely to get wheel hop. Since the axle isn't sitting under the center of the car but rather slightly left or right of it, that just added torsional stress on the side that is 'out'. Instead of energy pushing the car forward, it wants to squirt out the lighter side.

this Thread and this link also have good info:

https://www.svtperformance.com/forum...l-hop.1139765/
https://nasaspeed.news/tech/suspensi...cts-and-cures/ - Nice video at the bottom of the link that highlights some of the stuff above.

So, inspect your bushings and if there are any cracks, replace them. If your shocks are worn, replace them with stiffer ones, while you are at it, maybe look at getting stiffer springs or relocation brackets for the lower control arms or shocks to get better geometry.

Norm Peterson

I would check the rear control arm bushings - and the torque boxes as well (a failing torque box can and will flex, and I wouldn't put it past your previous cases of wheel hop to have caused some damage here).

If those are all in good shape, the next thing would be engine and transmission mounts. Even if the suspension isn't absorbing/releasing energy, these powertrain mounts still can, and this can introduce an unsteadiness to the torque delivery.


Norm