67 Mustang Coupe Rear Swap 2001
09-13-2017, 09:23 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Colorado
Posts: 3
67 Mustang Coupe Rear Swap 2001
I am building a 67 Mustang Coupe with a 351w motor. I'm getting the whole front suspension from Mustangs to fear. The rear I acquired for free from a 2001 Mustang. It came with full rear suspension, disc brakes, housing, differential, drive shaft, T5 manual transmission, and clutch assembly.
How can I attach that rear to my 67 Mustang? It is wider than my current one. I plan on using modern wheels with the bolts and rim on the outside. I don't mind if the rear tires stick out just a small bit but not too much.
Is there a kit I can buy or fabricate my own? Anyone done this type of swap I would appreciate the help.
How can I attach that rear to my 67 Mustang? It is wider than my current one. I plan on using modern wheels with the bolts and rim on the outside. I don't mind if the rear tires stick out just a small bit but not too much.
Is there a kit I can buy or fabricate my own? Anyone done this type of swap I would appreciate the help.
09-13-2017, 10:59 PM
#2
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: AZ
Posts: 849
I am building a 67 Mustang Coupe with a 351w motor. I'm getting the whole front suspension from Mustangs to fear. The rear I acquired for free from a 2001 Mustang. It came with full rear suspension, disc brakes, housing, differential, drive shaft, T5 manual transmission, and clutch assembly.
How can I attach that rear to my 67 Mustang? First we need to know what engine is in the '67. This tells us whether the 8.8 swap is even remotely worthwhile. If it has an 8.5" or 9" Ford, the work involved to use the 8.8 is pretty crazy, compared to keeping the Ford rear end. 8.5" would be borderline for a 351, 9" excellent.
It is wider than my current one. I plan on using modern wheels with the bolts and rim on the outside. I don't mind if the rear tires stick out just a small bit but not too much. Need to start measuring things. How much wider? Can't be all that great, '67s had wider track than '65-'66.
Is there a kit I can buy or fabricate my own? Kit, I know of none. Fabricate? Sure, easy if you have the experience and equipment.
Anyone done this type of swap I would appreciate the help.
How can I attach that rear to my 67 Mustang? First we need to know what engine is in the '67. This tells us whether the 8.8 swap is even remotely worthwhile. If it has an 8.5" or 9" Ford, the work involved to use the 8.8 is pretty crazy, compared to keeping the Ford rear end. 8.5" would be borderline for a 351, 9" excellent.
It is wider than my current one. I plan on using modern wheels with the bolts and rim on the outside. I don't mind if the rear tires stick out just a small bit but not too much. Need to start measuring things. How much wider? Can't be all that great, '67s had wider track than '65-'66.
Is there a kit I can buy or fabricate my own? Kit, I know of none. Fabricate? Sure, easy if you have the experience and equipment.
Anyone done this type of swap I would appreciate the help.
Yes, I have. I'll try to detail the work in as few words as possible (impossible). First, all the 8.8 suspension brackets and shock absorber brackets must be cut off of the axle housing, to prepare it for use with leaf springs. Spring pads must be welded on, in the CORRECT PLACES and CORRECTLY LOCATED around the axle tubes, as they determine the DRIVELINE angle. Shock brackets will have to be welded on in the correct places.
8.8 has a longer pinion gear than the '67 rear; this may cause a problem with driveshaft length. T-5 is a good choice, and most have tailshaft length compatible with automatics of same era.
Is '67 an automatic or manual? If former, clutch pedal, linkage or a hydraulic release system will need to be addressed. Don't worry at this stage (yet), about a neutral start switch being another concern. Shift linkage for the T-5 is straightforward, except that it is located at the BACK of the tailhousing, and difficulty will be had clearing a shifter unless the space between seats is open. Even then, shifter location may be too far rearward, requiring some work.
The other route to use the 8.8 would be to design bracketry similar to the '01s, and use coil springs instead of leaf springs. This job would tax a professional builder.
What sort of experience have you regarding work like you suggest? imp
09-13-2017, 11:13 PM
#3
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Colorado
Posts: 3
Yes, I have. I'll try to detail the work in as few words as possible (impossible). First, all the 8.8 suspension brackets and shock absorber brackets must be cut off of the axle housing, to prepare it for use with leaf springs. Spring pads must be welded on, in the CORRECT PLACES and CORRECTLY LOCATED around the axle tubes, as they determine the DRIVELINE angle. Shock brackets will have to be welded on in the correct places.
8.8 has a longer pinion gear than the '67 rear; this may cause a problem with driveshaft length. T-5 is a good choice, and most have tailshaft length compatible with automatics of same era.
Is '67 an automatic or manual? If former, clutch pedal, linkage or a hydraulic release system will need to be addressed. Don't worry at this stage (yet), about a neutral start switch being another concern. Shift linkage for the T-5 is straightforward, except that it is located at the BACK of the tailhousing, and difficulty will be had clearing a shifter unless the space between seats is open. Even then, shifter location may be too far rearward, requiring some work.
The other route to use the 8.8 would be to design bracketry similar to the '01s, and use coil springs instead of leaf springs. This job would tax a professional builder.
What sort of experience have you regarding work like you suggest? imp
8.8 has a longer pinion gear than the '67 rear; this may cause a problem with driveshaft length. T-5 is a good choice, and most have tailshaft length compatible with automatics of same era.
Is '67 an automatic or manual? If former, clutch pedal, linkage or a hydraulic release system will need to be addressed. Don't worry at this stage (yet), about a neutral start switch being another concern. Shift linkage for the T-5 is straightforward, except that it is located at the BACK of the tailhousing, and difficulty will be had clearing a shifter unless the space between seats is open. Even then, shifter location may be too far rearward, requiring some work.
The other route to use the 8.8 would be to design bracketry similar to the '01s, and use coil springs instead of leaf springs. This job would tax a professional builder.
What sort of experience have you regarding work like you suggest? imp
The car is currently automatic. I have looked into the change necessary for the switch to manual. A lot of work but I think it's worth it. Should I be better to sell the rear and buy a 9"? The real deal was the transmission and the rear was a bonus.
If the 8.8 is sufficient, how would I measure where to weld the spring pads and shock pads? I would be comfortable welding those if I knew where exactly.
Tomorrow I'll get some dimensions to the current rear and the new one.
What was your tool or choice for cutting off the brackets? Plasma cutter or rotary tool?
09-14-2017, 10:31 PM
#5
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: AZ
Posts: 849
8" is only borderline for a 351.
Should I be better to sell the rear and buy a 9" Yes.
If the 8.8 is sufficient, how would I measure where to weld the spring pads and shock pads? I would be comfortable welding those if I knew where exactly. To locate them very accurately requires use of a jig for the purpose. However, using a protractor, the current driveline angle can be measured reasonably closely, then copied for the 8.8. The pads may be C-clamped to the tubes with the entire housing upside down, previously having measured and marked the location distance of one from the end of the axle tube, having taken into consideration the greater width of the 8.8 from the original. Then, the other is located on the other tube, and clamped, both having been placed in line with the proper pinion angle. Then weld. Similar for shock brackets.
What was your tool or choice for cutting off the brackets? Plasma cutter or rotary tool Oxyacetylene torch exclusively.
Should I be better to sell the rear and buy a 9" Yes.
If the 8.8 is sufficient, how would I measure where to weld the spring pads and shock pads? I would be comfortable welding those if I knew where exactly. To locate them very accurately requires use of a jig for the purpose. However, using a protractor, the current driveline angle can be measured reasonably closely, then copied for the 8.8. The pads may be C-clamped to the tubes with the entire housing upside down, previously having measured and marked the location distance of one from the end of the axle tube, having taken into consideration the greater width of the 8.8 from the original. Then, the other is located on the other tube, and clamped, both having been placed in line with the proper pinion angle. Then weld. Similar for shock brackets.
What was your tool or choice for cutting off the brackets? Plasma cutter or rotary tool Oxyacetylene torch exclusively.