Rokgtar

Ok - thanks all! I've been reading a lot on this as well and now I'm going to replace the lash adjusters before I do anything else. It runs like a champ otherwise... And thanks to my bro Madcheeze, for keeping a foot in my @$$ and being right in the thick of it to help me get this thing right. Maybe it's because I threatened to go rice and get an Integra if I couldn't fix this easily... I think that scared him (I was kidding )

Next on the list - get my brother in a Termi - he's dying for one!

JC316

Welcome to the club. It's a ****ty club, but welcome anyway.

Read: https://mustangforums.com/forum/4-6-...any-ideas.html

Check the last page for videos of cars that I am finding that have this exact same issue. As of now, I don't know what it is.

madcheeze

While i dont really tend to believe that its the lash adjusters, thats the first thing i think we are going to go after. Since it wont take much more time to put that new clutch in, maybe i can talk him into putting the clutch in too at the same time. 8). I got rid of my toy (suzuki m109r) due to layoff, so i am kind of using his toy as a release for me too. He just doesnt know it yet. As for me getting a terminator, i dont know, i dont think i can justify a 20k car that is 6/7 years old to the wife. Now, a newer one, i could probably justify, but thats not happening any time soon unless i get a job...

anyone need an IT guy here in Richmond VA? lol

Rokgtar

Update... I pulled coil wires (one at a time, then started the engine) and listened for the rattle. When I pulled the wire for cyl #4, the rattle disappeared.

I read somewhere that if you pull the fire from one of the cylinders and the rattle goes away, then it is likely a rod bearing in that cylinder.

At 143k, it is time for a refresh anyway, if I am going to run it hard at all, which I am . A local shop quoted me approx $2400.00 to go through the motor with new pistons .010 over or more if necessary, all new bearings, wrist pins, etc... If not necessary to replace the pistons, then a rering, new bearings, etc... would be considerable cheaper.

Its times like this I wish it was a pushrod motor - much less expensive to rebuild...

Any ideas/comments? Is that pricing in line with what I can expect from most shops?

madcheeze

Removal of the spark from the chamber isnt total proof that its the rod bearing. But, its a very good chance that it is. We need to go by another shop this week over there off of boulevard to talk to a guy. Let me know when you can, and we will go. The guy over there I was referred to is nothing but a stang builder, and has been recommended to me by a few people with built ones.

Ehmark

Buy a brand new shortblock thats forged from mmr fo the same price

Rokgtar

OK - so we pulled the motor and sent it to the machine shop for examination - it definitely spun a rod bearing on cyl #4. The cylinders look OK, no need to bore, just a re-ring will do. But apparently the rod needs to be replaced, and the machine shop quoted me a total cost to rebuild the engine (new bearings, turn the crank, hone the cylinders, re-ring, new oil pump, new timing chain assy, all new gaskets, head/valve work and total reassembly - $5600.00.

$5600.00! I can't believe it! $5600.00 to rebuild an engine? What the???

I'm screwed...

I have looked at short blocks on MMR ($2400.00 - but its an iron block - mine is aluminum Teksid block...). Does anyyone know where I can get a decent reman or replacement engine for my car? I'm just looking for a stock replacement 4.6 DOHC for a reasonable price - not more than I paid for the car in the first place!

I went out on carparts.com and searched for used engines - a few with under 70k on there for 2400.00 - 3000.00 dollars. I'm worried about buying someone elses junk though...

What I need is good solid advice on what I should do next. I'm on a budget... This is not my daily driver, but the thought of my car sitting up for months on end makes me sick.

So - while I have skills, I don't rebuild engines for a living... so - any suggestions? I could use some good solid advice right about now...

JC316

Jesus Christ..... Get a fuc*ing stroker kit for it. Comes with a crank, rods, pistons, and bearings. Get a Mark VIII engine, and slap your intake and a new fly wheel on it. Doesn't have a a forged crank, but they are dirt cheap.

Wynn

It's a hobby car. You have the engine out already. You have a brother that is willing to help you. Get a manual, get on as many Mustang websites as you can, and get to work. Get your crank polished and get a set of Forged rods and Pistons. Throw in a new timing set, degree your cams, and put it back together. Yeah, it's going to take some time, and you'll run into a few hiccups along the way, but you should be able to have a rebuilt, FORGED motor for about $2000 if you do the work yourself. Plus, you'll have the pride of saying you rebuilt it yourself.

Get that stuff done, and you may have some money left over for a 150 shot of nitrous. You ain't gonna hurt a forged motor!

Get it done man, that's my plan when mine blows up (135000 miles)

Rokgtar

OK - believe it or not, even though I freaked out a bit in my last post, I have 2 years of training in auto mechanics (though I never worked professionally in the field - I got into the computer field instead).

So - I'm hearing what you guys are saying - do it myself. I own a torque wrench, have a garage, so I can do this. I had initially though I would anyway, but the guy at the machine shop told me in the beginning (before realizing how expensive the parts are) that a refresh might run 1800.00 or so. That I could handle. Not 5600.00 though.

I have a couple of questions (the first of many, I am sure):

1) The "torque to yield" bolts for the mains, the heads and the rod bearings... Why are they engineered like that? To make the engines disposable? Can you buy "regular" bolts that can be re-torqued so I don't have to waste a set when measuring clearances with the plastigauge?

2) The machine shop says that the block and cylinders look good. So - if I go to forged rods and pistons - do I need to overbore, or can I buy forged pistons in the standard bore size and just hone the cylinders?

Thanks for pulling me back from the edge...