Best tires with minumum wheel hop??
08-24-2011, 07:30 PM
#13
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: MI
Posts: 20
Nitto tires are a great product. I don't know how you can claim they suck off of a wheel hop? Definitely need a stiffer suspension if you are hopping. What you are going to spend on new tires, you should put it towards some Steeda billet control arms. These will greatly reduce wheel hop.
08-25-2011, 10:31 PM
#14
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: NY
Posts: 37
haha already broke the diff cover with an irs brace got an aftermarket diff cover but it is too big for a brace but a hell of alot thicker and stronger..
Just another off topic question anybody know anything about spark degree my tuner spazed out the other day and it reset somethings idk how i never heard of a tuner doing that but it did and idk what the spark degree was set at?
08-25-2011, 11:07 PM
#15
Wheel hop by definition is the oscillation of loading and unloading of the rear suspension which includes the rear tires. It is the result of uncontrolled release of energy stored up in the suspension bushings, shocks, springs and TIRES. Sidewall construction and rubber density are two of the tire's major charcateristics that can contribute to, or minimize, the rebound that is part of this oscillation.
In the extreme, a wrinkle wall slick is a means to control the sudden impact of energy imparted into the tread through the sidewalls of the tire by allowing the tire to deform in rotation with the energy input, then gradually releasing that energy as the vehicle begins to move and the tires unwrap. If traction suffers, even a tall wrinkle wall slick will shake or hop as it begins to oscillate with the energy going in and out of the tire.
Street radials are subject to the same physics. A short 35 series tire has almost no ability to absorb the shock of energy input, so it is more likely to rebound, or hop as that oscillation starts. Softer rubber compounds can transfer part of the desired absorbtion to the tread, but not to the degree that a softer sidewall can. Short sidewall drag radials are the best attempt to make a tire design aimed at cornering work OK in a launch situation. Look at serious drag cars and they will all have tall tires on small rims to integrate the tire construction into their strategy for managing traction and controlling adverse reactions like wheel hop.
You can alter the suspension geometry to tame wheel hop, but it is misleading to say that it is the only way it is addressed. With short tires, it is more likely that geometry is moved to a place that the suspension will not easily load back up once the energy is released for the first time. This will manifest it's self as blowing the tires off. It affects street cars and gets dismissed as lousy tires or poor road surface. It is often a suspension set up that will not plant the tires. For a serious drag race 4-link, the kiss of death is to leave hard with good traction and then lose traction. Once a 4-link unloads, it won't load again because of a lack of weight transfer to plant the tires. It's tuning the entire combination that permits success. Dismissing tire choice because someone says wheel hop is cured by adjusting suspension is just foolish. Tire selection very much does play a part.
In the extreme, a wrinkle wall slick is a means to control the sudden impact of energy imparted into the tread through the sidewalls of the tire by allowing the tire to deform in rotation with the energy input, then gradually releasing that energy as the vehicle begins to move and the tires unwrap. If traction suffers, even a tall wrinkle wall slick will shake or hop as it begins to oscillate with the energy going in and out of the tire.
Street radials are subject to the same physics. A short 35 series tire has almost no ability to absorb the shock of energy input, so it is more likely to rebound, or hop as that oscillation starts. Softer rubber compounds can transfer part of the desired absorbtion to the tread, but not to the degree that a softer sidewall can. Short sidewall drag radials are the best attempt to make a tire design aimed at cornering work OK in a launch situation. Look at serious drag cars and they will all have tall tires on small rims to integrate the tire construction into their strategy for managing traction and controlling adverse reactions like wheel hop.
You can alter the suspension geometry to tame wheel hop, but it is misleading to say that it is the only way it is addressed. With short tires, it is more likely that geometry is moved to a place that the suspension will not easily load back up once the energy is released for the first time. This will manifest it's self as blowing the tires off. It affects street cars and gets dismissed as lousy tires or poor road surface. It is often a suspension set up that will not plant the tires. For a serious drag race 4-link, the kiss of death is to leave hard with good traction and then lose traction. Once a 4-link unloads, it won't load again because of a lack of weight transfer to plant the tires. It's tuning the entire combination that permits success. Dismissing tire choice because someone says wheel hop is cured by adjusting suspension is just foolish. Tire selection very much does play a part.
Last edited by scottybaccus; 08-25-2011 at 11:10 PM.
08-26-2011, 07:37 PM
#16
His wheel hop is because his stock control arms weeble wobble like a flaccid dick.
Not because his sidewalls are SLIGHTLY softer than that of a factory tire.
No one here is going to convince me that his wheel hop is because of the 555r's. You're high.
Not because his sidewalls are SLIGHTLY softer than that of a factory tire.
No one here is going to convince me that his wheel hop is because of the 555r's. You're high.
08-26-2011, 08:23 PM
#17
Hell yes the wobbly control arms are part of it and the rubber band 35 series tires are part of it. You don't have to swap out the entire suspension to solve the problem. You have to develop a combination that works in concert and not in conflict.
IRS with big rims and short tires is a handling combination. Curing wheel hop will mean putting together a tire, rim & suspension tune that works in the launch. That is certain to be less than optimal for handling.
Geez! You read something somewhere and now no other answer is right. Get out there and build a few cars and tune a few cars and figure out what elements play what roles. Tires are hugely important in fixing wheel hop.
08-26-2011, 08:52 PM
#18
Yes....the sidewall on a drag radial is actually softer...believe it or not.
I very well understand the physics. But wtf is the problem with buying new control arms?
You go play with tire brands and sizes to fix wheel hop while I buy new control arms and lets see who solves the issue first...
I very well understand the physics. But wtf is the problem with buying new control arms?
You go play with tire brands and sizes to fix wheel hop while I buy new control arms and lets see who solves the issue first...
09-03-2011, 06:04 PM
#20
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: NY
Posts: 37