Did tune with sct x3 now car wont start
02-17-2019, 03:06 AM
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: CA
Posts: 4
Did tune with sct x3 now car wont start
Hello everyone I just joined because I'm having a heck of a time with my car. I went to tune it with an SCT X3 everything went successful but afterwards the car would not start. Prior to all of this I had a fuel dump into the oil pan from a failed tune at the beginning. I was able to get all the fuel out of the engine but now it won't turn over so I can finish doing what I need to do to get it back running. I called SCT three times they returned it to stock for me but it still won't do nothing just clicks. They told me until I have a custom tune done the car will never start. I find that hard to believe. I have a procharger on it ported polished heads comp cams bbk throttle body etc. Most of the stuff I just mentioned along with the new injectors I just put on I did all myself after I purchase the vehicle. It came with the ProCharger already on it from a previous owner. After I had transmission repair work done on it the car has been lacking power backfiring turning off when I'm driving Etc. So I decided to start replacing things I replaced the coil packs with MSD I replace the plug wires with MSD I replace the plugs with MSD new fuel pump new fuel filter BBK throttle body K&N Filter SFI fuel injectors 34 lb new rack and pinion power steering pump battery. Just to get my power back. Everybody kept telling me I just needed to have it tuned so I bought it tuner to do it myself. And everything went wrong now I have no car. Any help would be appreciated thank you and God bless
02-19-2019, 01:06 PM
#2
Gentleman's Relish
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: AZ
Posts: 13,090
A canned tune cannot account for ported/polished heads AND cams and all of the other stuff you've added.
Most canned tunes are only good for basic bolt on mods, CAI, headers, maybe mild cams and/or FI. Once you start throwing more parts at it and changing the heads flow characteristics with ported heads, you NEED a custom tune. Too many variables and engine controls to simply slap a tune together from a data log.
Unless you have a Dyno, you cannot properly tune that motor. You have to map the entire fuel curve from idle to redline under various load conditions. If you lean it out to much BOOM goes the motor, you make it too rich you get fuel dumped into the oil, etc. Plus you are in CA, even more important if you have any chance in hell to pass smog.
Do yourself and your car a solid, find a good performance shop, pay the few hours for a dyno tune and be done with it. Or not. Your money and time either way.
Most canned tunes are only good for basic bolt on mods, CAI, headers, maybe mild cams and/or FI. Once you start throwing more parts at it and changing the heads flow characteristics with ported heads, you NEED a custom tune. Too many variables and engine controls to simply slap a tune together from a data log.
Unless you have a Dyno, you cannot properly tune that motor. You have to map the entire fuel curve from idle to redline under various load conditions. If you lean it out to much BOOM goes the motor, you make it too rich you get fuel dumped into the oil, etc. Plus you are in CA, even more important if you have any chance in hell to pass smog.
Do yourself and your car a solid, find a good performance shop, pay the few hours for a dyno tune and be done with it. Or not. Your money and time either way.
02-19-2019, 03:57 PM
#3
Banned
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 2,327
For the hell of it, try jump-starting it, clicking sounds like a weak battery. May just be a coincendence
that it decided to happen NOW, but try it anyway. A bad or failed tune would trash the ECU, and the
engine would still crank, and turn over, but not fire. The mods you have, no canned tune in the unit can
compensate for all of that. IT may start, and run like crap, and not do anything, but if the engine is not
cranking, and all you hear is clicking, then it's battery, starter, or solenoid...
that it decided to happen NOW, but try it anyway. A bad or failed tune would trash the ECU, and the
engine would still crank, and turn over, but not fire. The mods you have, no canned tune in the unit can
compensate for all of that. IT may start, and run like crap, and not do anything, but if the engine is not
cranking, and all you hear is clicking, then it's battery, starter, or solenoid...
02-19-2019, 11:28 PM
#4
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: CA
Posts: 4
96 mustang cobra wont start.
Well after going over everthing and got gas outa motor.We still had no start nor turnover of motor. Then I thought of something that my grandfather told me since he worked for Ford. So I turn the key to the on position I let it sit that way for 10 minutes I came back after about 12 minutes turn the key off turn the key back on in the car started up. Now that I got the car started I'm hearing a loud knocking sound coming from the top end. Not sure what that is yet. Since I was not driving the car when this problem arose I don't see how it could throw a rod. Something isn't pumping up or something wrong somewhere all the plugs are black with soot. Anybody have any ideas let me know. The starting problem we took care of anybody else having that starting problem try what I just did turn the key on walkaway for 10 minutes and or more come back turn the key back off then turn it on and it car should start. Hope this helps some of you I still got a mess thank you
02-20-2019, 12:53 PM
#5
Gentleman's Relish
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: AZ
Posts: 13,090
Top end knock is not usually a rod. Top end is usually cam/lifter/valve related.
Black soot on plugs is a rich A/F scenario (or at least the most likely in this case since you do not have a proper tune).
Yank the valve cover off the side where the noise is coming from and check for damage. It is possible to damage a cam lobe or valve lasher with improper lubrication (fuel in oil) in a matter of a couple of minutes.
Black soot on plugs is a rich A/F scenario (or at least the most likely in this case since you do not have a proper tune).
Yank the valve cover off the side where the noise is coming from and check for damage. It is possible to damage a cam lobe or valve lasher with improper lubrication (fuel in oil) in a matter of a couple of minutes.
02-20-2019, 06:11 PM
#6
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: CA
Posts: 4
Mustang cobra oil in gas
im in process of doing this but rain again has stopped me.I just dont understand how this might have happened.I can see if car was running .I showed up after i got all gas out.Plugs are 1 week old and black.Im at a point where i just want to junk the car.I have a 1991 5.0 and its a much better car.looks like crap but goes down the road.thinking moving pro charger to 5.0
02-21-2019, 12:42 PM
#7
Gentleman's Relish
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: AZ
Posts: 13,090
So, lets go way back to before you tried to first tune it and ended up here at the forum.
Are you the original owner?
Was the car in stock form before this most recent tune that seemed to create all the problems or, were there already mods on it that already required a tune?
When you went to do your first failed SCT tune install, where did the tune come from and what options did you tell them you had installed?
Were those options actually installed yet or did you install the tune first in anticipation of getting the mods installed later?
Like i said black plugs in that short amount of time is probably due to an excessively rich tune. You're going to eventually cook your cats from all that extra fuel being dumped and you will contaminate your oil again if you haven't already.
Are you the original owner?
Was the car in stock form before this most recent tune that seemed to create all the problems or, were there already mods on it that already required a tune?
When you went to do your first failed SCT tune install, where did the tune come from and what options did you tell them you had installed?
Were those options actually installed yet or did you install the tune first in anticipation of getting the mods installed later?
Like i said black plugs in that short amount of time is probably due to an excessively rich tune. You're going to eventually cook your cats from all that extra fuel being dumped and you will contaminate your oil again if you haven't already.
02-21-2019, 01:04 PM
#8
Banned
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 2,327
Did this car run before the tune?
Were all those mods done BEFORE you got it?
I saw ported and polished heads, who did that? AND, hope the intake ports were not polished,
that will screw the idle up. Some air turbulence is key to atomization of the fuel/air mixture. You
won't see polished Intake sides on a head. You can hurt performance by polishing the intake
side of the head. You can gasket match, but not polish. Not sure how this applies to DIRECT
injection, but injection into the head at the intake valves (port injection), you do not polish the ports.
Fuel injectors work in milliseconds, and they start firing fuel before the intake valve has even opened.
Most of the fuel does vaporize as it hits the back of the valve, but the rest of the fuel that doesn't vaporize
ends up on the port walls, short sides and around the valve area until the valve finally opens and draws
in the air fuel mixture. Keeping the walls rough helps break up the fuel before it enters the combustion
chamber. Atomized fuel burns better resulting in more horsepower and better fuel economy. Smooth
walls, the fuel will pool in one spot, be drawn in all at once from that spot, not as mist as it should.
Also, do not use a knife edge on the leading edge of the bridge that divides the valves, it will create more
of a restriction in the form of too much turbulence. Leave the bridge rounded on the leading edge, like the
leading edge of an air plane wing. The air will flow past better that way.
Exhaust side can be mirror shiny if you want, because there is no fuel dropout in the air-charge, and
reduces carbon build up on the port walls.
Were all those mods done BEFORE you got it?
I saw ported and polished heads, who did that? AND, hope the intake ports were not polished,
that will screw the idle up. Some air turbulence is key to atomization of the fuel/air mixture. You
won't see polished Intake sides on a head. You can hurt performance by polishing the intake
side of the head. You can gasket match, but not polish. Not sure how this applies to DIRECT
injection, but injection into the head at the intake valves (port injection), you do not polish the ports.
Fuel injectors work in milliseconds, and they start firing fuel before the intake valve has even opened.
Most of the fuel does vaporize as it hits the back of the valve, but the rest of the fuel that doesn't vaporize
ends up on the port walls, short sides and around the valve area until the valve finally opens and draws
in the air fuel mixture. Keeping the walls rough helps break up the fuel before it enters the combustion
chamber. Atomized fuel burns better resulting in more horsepower and better fuel economy. Smooth
walls, the fuel will pool in one spot, be drawn in all at once from that spot, not as mist as it should.
Also, do not use a knife edge on the leading edge of the bridge that divides the valves, it will create more
of a restriction in the form of too much turbulence. Leave the bridge rounded on the leading edge, like the
leading edge of an air plane wing. The air will flow past better that way.
Exhaust side can be mirror shiny if you want, because there is no fuel dropout in the air-charge, and
reduces carbon build up on the port walls.
02-21-2019, 07:24 PM
#9
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: CA
Posts: 4
Oil in gas now a knock
So, lets go way back to before you tried to first tune it and ended up here at the forum.
Are you the original owner?
Was the car in stock form before this most recent tune that seemed to create all the problems or, were there already mods on it that already required a tune?
When you went to do your first failed SCT tune install, where did the tune come from and what options did you tell them you had installed?
Were those options actually installed yet or did you install the tune first in anticipation of getting the mods installed later?
Like i said black plugs in that short amount of time is probably due to an excessively rich tune. You're going to eventually cook your cats from all that extra fuel being dumped and you will contaminate your oil again if you haven't already.
Are you the original owner?
Was the car in stock form before this most recent tune that seemed to create all the problems or, were there already mods on it that already required a tune?
When you went to do your first failed SCT tune install, where did the tune come from and what options did you tell them you had installed?
Were those options actually installed yet or did you install the tune first in anticipation of getting the mods installed later?
Like i said black plugs in that short amount of time is probably due to an excessively rich tune. You're going to eventually cook your cats from all that extra fuel being dumped and you will contaminate your oil again if you haven't already.
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