Ordering versus buying off the lot?
#1
Ordering versus buying off the lot?
Hi all, I'm going to be buying a new gt premium this summer and don't know how the process goes when you order a vehicle. When I build and price on Ford's website I think my car comes out somewhere in the neighborhood of $41,000 (without having the exact figures off hand). Do you have ANY negotiating room if you special order your vehicle?
I ask because I can find the car with the options and packages (401a, gt performance, and navigation) on the lot for about $36,000 - $37,000. There a bit of a travel, but to me, making a day trip to save $5,000 is worth it.
Or is there negotiation room when ordering? Also, is there any option of a dealer delivering the car to another unaffiliated dealer?
I ask because I can find the car with the options and packages (401a, gt performance, and navigation) on the lot for about $36,000 - $37,000. There a bit of a travel, but to me, making a day trip to save $5,000 is worth it.
Or is there negotiation room when ordering? Also, is there any option of a dealer delivering the car to another unaffiliated dealer?
#2
Hi all, I'm going to be buying a new gt premium this summer and don't know how the process goes when you order a vehicle. When I build and price on Ford's website I think my car comes out somewhere in the neighborhood of $41,000 (without having the exact figures off hand). Do you have ANY negotiating room if you special order your vehicle?
I ask because I can find the car with the options and packages (401a, gt performance, and navigation) on the lot for about $36,000 - $37,000. There a bit of a travel, but to me, making a day trip to save $5,000 is worth it.
Or is there negotiation room when ordering? Also, is there any option of a dealer delivering the car to another unaffiliated dealer?
I ask because I can find the car with the options and packages (401a, gt performance, and navigation) on the lot for about $36,000 - $37,000. There a bit of a travel, but to me, making a day trip to save $5,000 is worth it.
Or is there negotiation room when ordering? Also, is there any option of a dealer delivering the car to another unaffiliated dealer?
This is just what i was told, someone please correct me if i'm wrong.
#3
Thre is very little incentives to lower the MSRP price of the '15s as they are so new and extremely hot, in Houston we have a LARGE ford dealer, they are selling a crap ton each day... they have no reason to lower the price when demand is this high. I say find it on the lot if it's cheaper.
#4
I ordered my Ecoboost Premium because all the stock on hand according to the 'search dealer inventory' did not have any vehicles that met what I wanted. I was looking for either gray or green, manual, enhanced security package, spare tire, and ceramic interior. Nothing anywhere. Mostly I could only find automatics with black interior and none had the spare tire option. A local favorite is also the performance package...the big brakes, big radiator, and 3.55 differential are great but the black wheels and summer only street tires are not desirable for me.
If there is one that is what you want then try to pick it off the lot...if not, then order one.
If there is one that is what you want then try to pick it off the lot...if not, then order one.
#5
I ordered my Ecoboost Premium because all the stock on hand according to the 'search dealer inventory' did not have any vehicles that met what I wanted. I was looking for either gray or green, manual, enhanced security package, spare tire, and ceramic interior. Nothing anywhere. Mostly I could only find automatics with black interior and none had the spare tire option. A local favorite is also the performance package...the big brakes, big radiator, and 3.55 differential are great but the black wheels and summer only street tires are not desirable for me.
If there is one that is what you want then try to pick it off the lot...if not, then order one.
If there is one that is what you want then try to pick it off the lot...if not, then order one.
My interest is now piqued with the Z-plan. I believe I'm eligible for that pricing through my work (first energy). Is that applicable for special order vehicles?
#6
There are ones that are close, but not exact. They're also up to 300 miles away. This is why I asked if there is wiggle room on the pricing. If there is none then it makes more sense for me to drive a far distance and settle a few variances so I can save 5k. If there is wiggle room and the price difference wouldn't be that drastic then I would eat some extra cost to have exactly what I want (just not 5k for an equally MSRP valued on the lot car).
My interest is now piqued with the Z-plan. I believe I'm eligible for that pricing through my work (first energy). Is that applicable for special order vehicles?
My interest is now piqued with the Z-plan. I believe I'm eligible for that pricing through my work (first energy). Is that applicable for special order vehicles?
1. Ask about Z-Plan pricing. They can answer that for you for purchases or orders. By the way, ordering is not special really...it is a regular production order. If you really want to wait until summer you have two opportunities - order it about 2 months before you want it or...wait for the end of the 2015 MY and buy something out of stock when the 2016's start showing up (rebates). Pickings may be slim by then though so it really is like gambling.
2. Dealers may be able to trade stock (some cooperate and some do not). The vehicle 300 miles away may be able to be traded by your local dealer where the car can be brought to you in exchange for something else in stock at your local dealer. Your Mustang for an Explorer for instance. If the answer is 'no' then you can plan on the 300 mile trek but give the local dealer a shot first.
I hope this helps!
#7
Some dealers like orders and will negotiate the price. With an order they get the financing support (money from Ford to cover the short term loan costs for 90 days for the dealer to buy the car) and other incentives from Ford but the car doesn't sit on the lot eating into the profits. Depending on the dealer they might sell it at X Plan (you can get an x plan number if you are a member of the Mustang Club of America which costs $50 a year in dues) or Z plan or a even a couple hundred dollars above invoice.
The X plan price is listed on the invoice and it also limits the amount of documentation and prep fees a dealer can try to charge you, all that is written in plan.
The X plan price is listed on the invoice and it also limits the amount of documentation and prep fees a dealer can try to charge you, all that is written in plan.
#10
Invoice is the price listed on the document used by the dealer to buy the car from Ford. The dollar figure on the invoice (if the dealer won't show it to you) can be found on sites like Edmunds.com. Build your car and it will show MSRP (window sticker) and Invoice price. Ignore the Fair Market Price on Edmunds, that is probably set by local dealers to get you to feel good about an offer they give you.
The invoice price normally isn't what dealers really pay, they get unpublished factory incentives and support for financing too. I think starting negotiations up from invoice minus consumer cash back offers in effect at the time is a good start. Some dealers will sell you a car for $100-$300 over invoice, just remember to take the consumer cash back off their offer for your final cost.
Some dealers will give you a great number slightly over the invoice which makes you feel good then give you a $4000 to $5000 below real wholesale price low ball offer on your trade. Even if you get them up a little on the trade they still make much more on the trade then they do on the new car. I think the best way to value a trade is to search for your car with your number of miles on Cars.com in your area and see what dealers are asking for retail cost on your car. You will never get retail as a trade-in amount but you sometimes can get close to $3,000 to $4,000 below retail listings.
The third way dealers make money is originating the loan on new vehicles. They get a fee to write the loan and money for how high an interest rate they can convince you to sign for. Research loan rates at your bank or credit union and tell the dealer you will finance with them if they match the rate. This way they make some extra money from Ford Credit but it doesn't cost you anything.
The invoice price normally isn't what dealers really pay, they get unpublished factory incentives and support for financing too. I think starting negotiations up from invoice minus consumer cash back offers in effect at the time is a good start. Some dealers will sell you a car for $100-$300 over invoice, just remember to take the consumer cash back off their offer for your final cost.
Some dealers will give you a great number slightly over the invoice which makes you feel good then give you a $4000 to $5000 below real wholesale price low ball offer on your trade. Even if you get them up a little on the trade they still make much more on the trade then they do on the new car. I think the best way to value a trade is to search for your car with your number of miles on Cars.com in your area and see what dealers are asking for retail cost on your car. You will never get retail as a trade-in amount but you sometimes can get close to $3,000 to $4,000 below retail listings.
The third way dealers make money is originating the loan on new vehicles. They get a fee to write the loan and money for how high an interest rate they can convince you to sign for. Research loan rates at your bank or credit union and tell the dealer you will finance with them if they match the rate. This way they make some extra money from Ford Credit but it doesn't cost you anything.