azn_redneck

We go on the interwebs to avoid RTFM. But, by going on the interwebs, I've now learned that torque values are for non-lubricated nuts, which is probably a good reason for actually reading the manual. I put some anti-seize on the lugs (as I have done for the last 25 years or so with many different cars), so now my wheels are definitely going to fall off. I'll be sure to let you all know if I die as a result of the wheels falling off while driving to work.

08'MustangDude

You should not put anything on the lugs to lubricate them. CLEAN them, sure, but
lubricating causes over tightening, is all. So, if a lug is 100#, then when the TQ
wrench hits 100#, you're over torqued is all. You can go 90# for 100#, but I personally
have never heard anyone I know, have a lug come off using it. Antiseize is not a
lubrication anyway, it prevents rust from building up where it's spread.

In fact, you can use ONE DROP of trans fluid, this is just used as a rust inhibitor, and
is what I do. None of my lugs came off or loosened.

Also the TQ spec is for new, clean threads, both the stud and the nut. If you want
100% accuracy, then you need to wire brush the studs clean, and pipe clean the
lug nut.

You can get to a point where you use an oil, and it gets in the seat, thus the lugs do
not torque, and you pull the stud right off. So, you need to use your head here.
THREADS only, and drops.. Make sure none gets on the ball or conical seat area.
I have seen it happen in a SHOP where some doofis oiled the lugs, got in the seats,
used an air tool to put them on, and the studs ripped right out. I have also seen
them torqued with a TQ wrench, and the nut was not torquing down, and SNAP...
All because they decided to lube it all up..

One drop of ATF on the stud threads, or an antiseize band on the rusted spot
of the studs, BEFORE putting the tire on. I also put antiseize on the hub.

In the end, do what you want it's your car, but be prepared for failure is all
if you go overboard.