Mini rebuild
01-18-2009, 12:28 AM
#22
get a good battery, spark plugs, new belt, new hoses, change all fluids, check battery, starter and alternator connection.
You can do just about all of this stuff for around $1000, and have it really together good, if you can do it yourself. If you have to pay someone else, then double my estimate.
You can do just about all of this stuff for around $1000, and have it really together good, if you can do it yourself. If you have to pay someone else, then double my estimate.
01-18-2009, 10:46 AM
#23
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: NJ
Posts: 236
I was working with the cars in my country, but not with cars like Mustang =]
Got one more question, Should i change manual transmission gear oil? In old cars it was no way to do that, that about SN95?
Got one more question, Should i change manual transmission gear oil? In old cars it was no way to do that, that about SN95?
01-20-2009, 12:15 PM
#25
Yes, change all the fluids.
Transmission oil
Rear end oil
Engine oil
Radiator fluid
Check power steering fluid
Check break fluid
Change all the parts Ryan listed, and here's a little food for thought for you, go to www.steeda.com and pay a few more dollars on those parts and get one of the best there is, yes, Steeda is that much better than stock.
For springs just get a set of Ford Racing C Springs, they're a little lower than stock to make the car handle better as well as have a better stance without being so low that you have to watch where you park and how you drive.
Also, change the shocks, just get the basic level Tokico shocks, again, better than stock and only a few dollars more. Don't get the adjustable, you'll have no need for that.
Also, if you're worried about the engine you "could" go to a junk yard or look around on ebay for a 99-04 engine. It will pretty much drop right on in with very little modification needed. May need to get an ecu for a manual 99-04 as well, but again, doing that would be cheaper than a full engine rebuild if your engine calls for it in the future.
BTW, this is maintenance and tune up, tuning is what you do to the ECU (on modern cars).
Get new spark plugs and wires. Stock wires are pretty good, but if you want extra protection from heat go to autobadges.com and pick up a set of theirs. They'll dress up the engine bay a little bit and are very heat resistant (can't be easily burned though if the wire slips up near the header). I'd get them for my 5.0 if there were availible
As far as mods, that's up to you, but for a 98 I'd skip all the basic crap and do an engine swap to a 99-04 or just do the 99-04 head and intake swap for the quick 40 rwhp gain. Because stock your car sits around 120ish rwhp and responds poorly as hell to nearly all mods. Even S/C kits struggle to break 200 rwhp as most come in at around 185-190.
Transmission oil
Rear end oil
Engine oil
Radiator fluid
Check power steering fluid
Check break fluid
Change all the parts Ryan listed, and here's a little food for thought for you, go to www.steeda.com and pay a few more dollars on those parts and get one of the best there is, yes, Steeda is that much better than stock.
For springs just get a set of Ford Racing C Springs, they're a little lower than stock to make the car handle better as well as have a better stance without being so low that you have to watch where you park and how you drive.
Also, change the shocks, just get the basic level Tokico shocks, again, better than stock and only a few dollars more. Don't get the adjustable, you'll have no need for that.
Also, if you're worried about the engine you "could" go to a junk yard or look around on ebay for a 99-04 engine. It will pretty much drop right on in with very little modification needed. May need to get an ecu for a manual 99-04 as well, but again, doing that would be cheaper than a full engine rebuild if your engine calls for it in the future.
BTW, this is maintenance and tune up, tuning is what you do to the ECU (on modern cars).
Get new spark plugs and wires. Stock wires are pretty good, but if you want extra protection from heat go to autobadges.com and pick up a set of theirs. They'll dress up the engine bay a little bit and are very heat resistant (can't be easily burned though if the wire slips up near the header). I'd get them for my 5.0 if there were availible
As far as mods, that's up to you, but for a 98 I'd skip all the basic crap and do an engine swap to a 99-04 or just do the 99-04 head and intake swap for the quick 40 rwhp gain. Because stock your car sits around 120ish rwhp and responds poorly as hell to nearly all mods. Even S/C kits struggle to break 200 rwhp as most come in at around 185-190.
01-20-2009, 12:43 PM
#26
Please don't buy Stangwires, go with MSD wires if you don't go with stockers.
My Stangwires have been nothing but a headache, I've gone through 3 sets in 2 years. I have too many mods that invlove removing spark plug wires and I lose at least 3 electrodes due to poor crimping every time I take them off. Stangwires has sent me 2 free sets to compensate me, and even recommended to only use the wires individually as I needed to.
My Stangwires have been nothing but a headache, I've gone through 3 sets in 2 years. I have too many mods that invlove removing spark plug wires and I lose at least 3 electrodes due to poor crimping every time I take them off. Stangwires has sent me 2 free sets to compensate me, and even recommended to only use the wires individually as I needed to.
01-20-2009, 06:08 PM
#28
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location:
Posts: 3,594
check the filler neck grommet going into the tank. they like to dry rot and leak like a bitch. they are only $20ish but alittle pain to change. not bad but kind of a pain if you have more than a quarter tank in.
i say also get a detroit truetrac and a set of 3.45 gears the gears can be found used off ebay pretty cheap and you will need a 28 tooth speedo gear from www.steeda.com to correct the speedo for the 3.45's. 3.45's are near a perfect gear for daily driven singleports and turbo setups. i just found my old set. i thought i sold them. they will be used for the powerstroke GTP38 turbo test mule car when i get around to it in the next 10 years lol.
as for other things like others said tie rods n ball joints and front wheel bearings. you should replace the hub nut as they are reccomended for 1 time use only. when you change the hub/bearing you change the nut and torque to 250ish ftlbs. Napa has the nut. basic stuff really. i never had much trouble with anything on my 98 except for the grommet and the wheel bearingsmy car has over 120K on it now and the engine alittle over 100K with a blower on it. they are tough cars. don't waste money on a CAI. just get a K&N filter for the stock airbox and remove the rubber silencer "snorkel" from the airbox. that will give you the same 3hp gain a CAI will give.
have the clutch checked and replace it if needed along with a short throw shifter. 5th gear is known for going out of the T5 so if it grinds going into 5th it may need a 5th/reverse cluster rebuild. good exhaust is a good mod. just GT takeoffs and your Y-pipe cut to mate them up is good but i like to cut off the GT mufflers and put in a muffler like a thrush 2 chamber muffler (flowmaster 40 clone) it sounds good and frees up 5hp. UD pullies are nice for 8hp. change the waterpump unless it's been changed recently and the thermostat. other than that you bought one of the better year 3.8's. not real powerfull but very reliable
i say also get a detroit truetrac and a set of 3.45 gears the gears can be found used off ebay pretty cheap and you will need a 28 tooth speedo gear from www.steeda.com to correct the speedo for the 3.45's. 3.45's are near a perfect gear for daily driven singleports and turbo setups. i just found my old set. i thought i sold them. they will be used for the powerstroke GTP38 turbo test mule car when i get around to it in the next 10 years lol.
as for other things like others said tie rods n ball joints and front wheel bearings. you should replace the hub nut as they are reccomended for 1 time use only. when you change the hub/bearing you change the nut and torque to 250ish ftlbs. Napa has the nut. basic stuff really. i never had much trouble with anything on my 98 except for the grommet and the wheel bearingsmy car has over 120K on it now and the engine alittle over 100K with a blower on it. they are tough cars. don't waste money on a CAI. just get a K&N filter for the stock airbox and remove the rubber silencer "snorkel" from the airbox. that will give you the same 3hp gain a CAI will give.
have the clutch checked and replace it if needed along with a short throw shifter. 5th gear is known for going out of the T5 so if it grinds going into 5th it may need a 5th/reverse cluster rebuild. good exhaust is a good mod. just GT takeoffs and your Y-pipe cut to mate them up is good but i like to cut off the GT mufflers and put in a muffler like a thrush 2 chamber muffler (flowmaster 40 clone) it sounds good and frees up 5hp. UD pullies are nice for 8hp. change the waterpump unless it's been changed recently and the thermostat. other than that you bought one of the better year 3.8's. not real powerfull but very reliable
01-20-2009, 07:36 PM
#29
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: NJ
Posts: 236
This everything sounds very expensive... How much i will have to pay for those parts? Just wanna change most important parts... It will be a first car for my son, so i dont need this car working like new... Just safe... If he will get some money, then he will modify ;]
BTW. Cobra232, You said to buy just an K&N filter for the stock airbox, could you please give me link to this? (eBay, AM, doesn't matter where)
Thanks
BTW. Cobra232, You said to buy just an K&N filter for the stock airbox, could you please give me link to this? (eBay, AM, doesn't matter where)
Thanks
01-20-2009, 08:02 PM
#30
Honestly most of this stuff can be accomplished in a weekend or two at the most. Get a few repair manuals (i.e. Haynes, Chiltons, and even the Ford manuals can be found on Ebay, I have all of the Ford ones for all my cars)
Any special tools you don't have can be borrowed/rented from the parts store. And if you do like and do and get him to help, he'll learn something and maybe prevent a small problem from becoming a big one.
I remember when one of my hubs started going out, I noticed my handling changed somewhat, and when I took it off it had tons of play and I was amazed it even stayed together.
I wouldn't recommend doing any rear end work on your own, other than maybe changing the axle seals, anything further, unless you're knowledgable about it, I'd recommend paying to have done.
Any special tools you don't have can be borrowed/rented from the parts store. And if you do like and do and get him to help, he'll learn something and maybe prevent a small problem from becoming a big one.
I remember when one of my hubs started going out, I noticed my handling changed somewhat, and when I took it off it had tons of play and I was amazed it even stayed together.
I wouldn't recommend doing any rear end work on your own, other than maybe changing the axle seals, anything further, unless you're knowledgable about it, I'd recommend paying to have done.