jthorn9

Yeah, remove the cap so the pressure can release.

99'PEGASV6

so steps;

front:
-remove cap
-push "piston" down with a c clamp
-remove w/e bolts holding the pads?
-put new pads in
-put thing back on top and take out c clamp?

rear:
same but twist needle nose pliers to get it back in

if anyone could be specific; don't mean to be a little girl about it... i need a little more specific input. Im soaking all the information in btw fellas and i appreciate all the help. i just don't want to end up jacking my car up and getting to a step where i have no idea what to do and come back on here with my car jacked up lol

MustangSally94

Not quite, here are the proper steps.

Front Brakes:
- Remove Cap
- Unbolt Caliper from caliper bracket.
- Slide old pads out of bracket
- Using an old pad and a C-clamp compress piston on caliper until old pad rests flat on caliper and piston is fully compressed
- put new pads in with the metal brackets that should come packaged, make sure you put some anti-squeal grease on the back of the pads
- replace caliper and re-bolt to bracket. If the Piston is catching on the pads and wont allow you to slide the caliper over then the piston needs to be pushed in further. Make sure Caliper is securely tightened to the bracket.
- replace wheel and repeat for other side.

Back Brakes:

Same general Idea but instead of using a C-clamp you can either use the tool you rent from a parts store, or get a good bite in the grooves (you'll see what we mean) of the piston and turn and push has hard as you can until the piston is back in all the way. If the caliper wont turn and compress then it is shot and needs to be replaced. But make sure you put some elbow grease into it before you assume its shot. Also if the caliper on the rear compresses without turning (meaning you can just push it in) then it is also shot.

Once all your pads are replaced, tires are back on, and car is lowered pump your brakes until the pad stiffens. Then check your brake fluid and replace any if needed, you shouldnt lose any fluid but I have seen it over flow before and some is lost. Once your fluid level is proper and all your wheels are tightly secured go for a test drive!!! For front and rear pads with no experiance your probably looking at a couple of hours to do the job right.

jthorn9

Oh don't forget after you unbolt the caliper take some kind of metal (old cut coat hanger will work) and hang the caliper up from any one of the spots in there that has a hole that will allow you to hang it. You don't want to let it just hang there by the brake line as you work.

MustangSally94

+1 on this... sorry I left it out.

99'PEGASV6

Great thanks a lot mustangsally ! It's supposed to reach 50-55* here so hopefully I can get these in asap, they're already screeching. ugh.

MustangSally94

hey dont just thank me, but your welcome

99'PEGASV6

yes, thanks everyone haha lots of useful information

Fink

Brakes on our cars are simple simple. I think last time I did mine I was done in 30-45 mins(including smoke break).

drum brakes are trickier but still simple.

MustangSally94

I rebuilt my back brakes (rotors, calipers, and pads) in under an hour.... and thats with bleeding and a smoke break and going to do my front brakes but they were fine