Suspension questions!
#11
+1 http://www.mustangworld.com/ourpics/...amps/index.htm
Find a construction site... sneak in at 2:30 am = free rampz!
Find a construction site... sneak in at 2:30 am = free rampz!
#12
So back on topic...i was reading the Haynes manual and it says to allow the rear end to be suspended so the tires dont touch the ground.
And then i read another article online and they say just put the stang on a ramp and start removing the nuts bolts from there. So in this instance the rear end & tires are technically in contact with the ground.
So if im reading the comment right could i technically put the mustang on the ramp allowing the tires to contact the ground. When do i compress the rear end? Do i take the top bolts off from the trunk & then compress and remove bottom bolts. This is starting to sound like quantum mechanics, but i know its ridiculously easy.
And then i read another article online and they say just put the stang on a ramp and start removing the nuts bolts from there. So in this instance the rear end & tires are technically in contact with the ground.
So if im reading the comment right could i technically put the mustang on the ramp allowing the tires to contact the ground. When do i compress the rear end? Do i take the top bolts off from the trunk & then compress and remove bottom bolts. This is starting to sound like quantum mechanics, but i know its ridiculously easy.
#14
I don't like those metal ramps. First, they aren't as safe as a properly used jack and jackstands. Second, they take up too much room on the ground so your mobility options are limited. If I ever did use ramps, it'd be those jerry-rigged wood ones, they are actually safer than the ones you can buy - if made correctly of course. Invest in a jack and jackstands. This probably isn't the only time you ever need them. My car is lowered so I have to drive it up on 2x6's to fit the jack under the sub-frame rail, block the wheels, then I just jack up one side at a time. I put a 2x1 piece of wood between the jack and jacking point to avoid scraps and bends. Jack the car up to the desired height and place the stands on either the sub-frame rail or front/rear lower control arms. Usually for suspension work, use the sub-fram rail.
If you are replacing the front or rear shocks, you're gonna have to take off the wheels. You can't do that if the car is in contact with the ground. Replacing the shocks isn't hard. If you don't like/can't find Ryan's write-up that Shaun was talking about, here are two that are as clear as day what needs to be done.
http://www.americanmuscle.com/tokico...4-install.html
http://www.americanmuscle.com/tokico...4-install.htmlr
If you are replacing the front or rear shocks, you're gonna have to take off the wheels. You can't do that if the car is in contact with the ground. Replacing the shocks isn't hard. If you don't like/can't find Ryan's write-up that Shaun was talking about, here are two that are as clear as day what needs to be done.
http://www.americanmuscle.com/tokico...4-install.html
http://www.americanmuscle.com/tokico...4-install.htmlr
#16
wtf is your problem? This is actual person with a Mustang that has a legit tech question. You have a '89 Supra and are on here spreading bullschit. Not even a GT guy bashing a v6 guy, you have a Supra. Post something legit and relevant or GTFO.
#18
I don't like those metal ramps. First, they aren't as safe as a properly used jack and jackstands. Second, they take up too much room on the ground so your mobility options are limited. If I ever did use ramps, it'd be those jerry-rigged wood ones, they are actually safer than the ones you can buy - if made correctly of course. Invest in a jack and jackstands. This probably isn't the only time you ever need them. My car is lowered so I have to drive it up on 2x6's to fit the jack under the sub-frame rail, block the wheels, then I just jack up one side at a time. I put a 2x1 piece of wood between the jack and jacking point to avoid scraps and bends. Jack the car up to the desired height and place the stands on either the sub-frame rail or front/rear lower control arms. Usually for suspension work, use the sub-fram rail.
If you are replacing the front or rear shocks, you're gonna have to take off the wheels. You can't do that if the car is in contact with the ground. Replacing the shocks isn't hard. If you don't like/can't find Ryan's write-up that Shaun was talking about, here are two that are as clear as day what needs to be done.
http://www.americanmuscle.com/tokico...4-install.html
http://www.americanmuscle.com/tokico...4-install.htmlr
If you are replacing the front or rear shocks, you're gonna have to take off the wheels. You can't do that if the car is in contact with the ground. Replacing the shocks isn't hard. If you don't like/can't find Ryan's write-up that Shaun was talking about, here are two that are as clear as day what needs to be done.
http://www.americanmuscle.com/tokico...4-install.html
http://www.americanmuscle.com/tokico...4-install.htmlr
Thanks this is all the information ill be needing! looks fairly straight forward so i think ill be buying some new shocks jackstands and a floor jack. The links were a huge help. Ill update you guys soon on what all i get done!
#20
So i finally just bought a 2.5 ton floor jack and two 4 ton jack stands for 90$... Pretty happy about it. Made by craftsman, Ive had pretty good experiences with their tools. Ive also included a picture of what i believe to be the stock shocks that came with the car Needless to say, they have seen better days.