I have a hesitation in acceleration
#1
I have a hesitation in acceleration
Well as the title says I have a hesitation in acceleration. Let me paint a picture for you as to what is going on. the car is running, in park, it sounds good, there is a noise rom an exaust leak, I stomp the pedal and there is a delay of acceleration, a look of disapointment is on my face, I do it again, same delay, same look, I gradually push the pedal, no delay, thought of WTF, I gradually push again, no delay, same thought. the check engine light is on, I have tken it to a shop to be scan by thier computer, and was told it is a Intake Manifold Gasket leak. So I now ask you what could be happening? before you answer let me tell you what I have replaced. I have replaced: plugs(autolite XP iridium), Intake manifold gaskets( both upper and lower, a throttle body gasket for the peice that sits atop the main body , and Injector o-rings, came in a kit. all except the throttle body gasket were replaced), EGR valve gasket, new serpentine belt, a new "VSS" for the speedometer, fuel filter, and ran half a 16oz can of "sea foam" though the system. so now what do you think could be wrong? I have yet to check my pugs and see if any are fouled or carboned, I ran out of daylight, it gets dark here at 8:15p.m. I get home from work around 4 4:30 and have to deal with the stuggles of regular life aside form fixing the car, which leaves me not much time to fix it otherthan weekends. you guys can surely understand that...... right? Thanks in advance for your help and advice.
#2
Could the exaust leak have any thing to do with it? the leak is a combo of several really. one past the O2 sensors, and one on the right bank headers.... well not on the headers themselves but below the connection to the cat converter. I have notice some welding spot at the places, and think they have been weakened, and burned through. Honestly believe me or not I didn't do the welding. I have never welded nor own a welder. it was like this when I got it. one of the things I have to fix from the check list. If you still don't believe me, here this. I bought this car for $1,000. you can imagine how much cold be wrong with a car that cheap. tires, brakes, engine trouble, exaust trouble, interior panaling problems. the car was fixed on the exterior from a deer collision to the front. Plus I don't think the guy doing the fixing knew what he was doing really, I got it from my friend who thought it was a deal but found out what was involved, and so he didn't want to put money in to it. So I bought it, and I'm gonna fix it myself to save on repair cost. Well at least the stuff I can do, I don't have machineing tools to bore out cylinders or that kind of equipment. I have rebuilt motorcycles with great success and am gonna tackle this wild pony now. yes I know...... god save me.
#3
The exhaust leak can definitely cause that problem. Who ever read your codes should have told you the number. Sounds like a P0171 or P0174 to me, your system is running lean. He probably told you the intake manifold gasket cause that's a common vacuum leak area. BUT, the exhaust manifolds are probably cracked and sucking in air, thus making the o2 sensors believe that your car is running lean. It is trying to correct it by sending more fuel. That's what could be causing the hesitation when you quickly rev it.
By the way, the stock manifolds are very prone to cracking, it's wise to look into aftermarket manifolds. Preferably long tube headers.
By the way, the stock manifolds are very prone to cracking, it's wise to look into aftermarket manifolds. Preferably long tube headers.
#6
The exhaust leak can definitely cause that problem. Who ever read your codes should have told you the number. Sounds like a P0171 or P0174 to me, your system is running lean. He probably told you the intake manifold gasket cause that's a common vacuum leak area. BUT, the exhaust manifolds are probably cracked and sucking in air, thus making the o2 sensors believe that your car is running lean. It is trying to correct it by sending more fuel. That's what could be causing the hesitation when you quickly rev it.
By the way, the stock manifolds are very prone to cracking, it's wise to look into aftermarket manifolds. Preferably long tube headers.
By the way, the stock manifolds are very prone to cracking, it's wise to look into aftermarket manifolds. Preferably long tube headers.
Matthew
#7
Only problem with that is you have to have your existing midpipe modified by an exhaust shop. It has to be .25'' bigger IIRC. Though with any headers/manifolds, you should fabricate something to divert the AC water away from the manifold.
#8
it's not from air filter problems, it is nice and white, looks brand new. I did not change it myself, it came with the car. Well I don't know if the exaust manifold are cracked and I want to say they are not, so lets say that the header has a welding on it right above the cat connecting flange. if it were leaking here, could that be the same as leaky exaust manifold? About the state laws here in Michigan, I don't know whats legal or not, so I will check into that, and ask the local muffler shops about what they can offer. I do regret not writing all of the codes down so that I had them on hand all the time, cause now the engine light is back on and I will have to pay to see if some have changed after fixing the things I have replaced.
#9
Yes, that would be the same. That's actually where my first manifold broke while I was driving. Seems like it happened to the previous owner and he tried to have it fixed. Replace the manifold.
EDIT: Go to a local Autozone, Advanced Auto Parts, or O' Reillys and they will check your codes for you free.
EDIT: Go to a local Autozone, Advanced Auto Parts, or O' Reillys and they will check your codes for you free.
#10
i tried to have Autozone check it the first time before I went to my local shop and they told me that it was too old for their scanner. which I think is a crock of sh*t. I will check the other stores, maybe I'll have better luck.