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94-98 M90 Supercoupe Supercharger Installation

Old 05-03-2011, 12:34 PM
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jthorn9
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Default 94-98 M90 Supercoupe Supercharger Installation

OK I've been wanting to add this to the site for a while but nobody has ever completed the swap on the site, so here is a composed parts list and very basic "how to" on installing the M-90 supercharger on your 94-98 Mustang. This is information I have compiled based off of several write ups from other sites.

Parts List to swap the blower on your N/A 94-98 V6:
-Eaton M90 blower (off of a 89-95 Thunderbird Super Coupe)
-Super Coupe Blower top (often refered to as a "blower hat")
-Super Coupe Lower Intake Manifold
-Super Coupe Inlet Plenum (connects the throttle body to the blower)
-Super Coupe Air Intake Tube (you'll use this to connect your 94-95 Mustang GT throttle body to your stock V6 Mustang MAF)
-94-95 Mustang GT throttle body (Super Coupe throttle body WILL NOT work with the Mustang throttle cables!!!)
-Super Coupe Upper Intake Manifold (connects the lower intercooler tube to the lower intake manifold)
-Super Coupe Thermostat Housing
-Super Coupe Jackshaft Pulley Bracket (accessories bracket that mounts on passenger side head)
-Super Coupe Power Steering Pump Bracket (accessories bracket that mounts on the drivers side head)
-Super Coupe Crank Pulley
-Super Coupe Water Pump
-Super Coupe tensioner pulleys (for accessories belt, jackshaft belt, and blower belt)
-Super Coupe Injectors (89-93 Super Coupes had 30lb/hr injectors, 94-95 Super Coupes had 36lb/hr injectors)
-Super Coupe Fuel Rail
-Super Coupe throttle cable bracket (you will have to use the base of the Super Coupe bracket and weld it to the end of the Mustang bracket)
-94-95 Timing Chain Cover (if you have a 96-98, you'll need either a 94-95 Mustang OR a 94-95 Super Coupe timing chain cover)
-Super Coupe Intercooler
-Super Coupe Valve Covers
-Super Coupe coil pack bracket (will probably be already attached to your Power Steering Pump Bracket)
-Super Coupe Throttle Position Sensor
-Super Coupe Throttle Position Sensor Pigtail (needs to be soldered into your mustang wiring harness)
-Super Coupe Intake Air Temp Sensor
-Super Coupe Intake Air Temp Sensor Pigtail (needs to be soldered into your mustang wiring harness)
AND DONT FORGET TO...
-Replace the Super Coupe water temp sensor with the Mustang water temp sensor (this way you can use as much of the Mustang wiring harness as possible)
-Bend the brake line (the one that is the closest to the front of the car, the one that is closest to the firewall will clear just fine) that comes out of the master cylinder towards the rear of the car to make room for the lower intercooler tube.

Parts list to swap a complete Thunderbird Super Coupe Engine:
-All of the parts listed above
-Super Coupe engine
-94-95 Super Coupe harmonic balancer OR 97-98 4.2L F-150 harmonic balancer
-01-04 Mustang Flexplate (for automatics) or Flywheel (for manuals)
AND DONT FORGET TO...
-Do all of the stuff listed above
-Remove the Super Coupe engine mounts and replace them with the Mustang engine mounts.
-Remove the knock sensor and heat shield from the passenger side of the Super Coupe block and replace it with the plug on the passenger side of your Mustang block. If memory serves me right, it gets in the way of the Mustang motor mounts.
-Use your Mustang oil pan, the Super Coupe oil pan has an oil level sensor that is not needed
-Replace the Super Coupe oil pressure sensor with the Mustang oil pressure sensor (this way you can use as much of your Mustang engine wiring harness as possible)

Secondary Parts:
-Accessories Belt (Dayco Part# 5060895, you'll be using a 6 rib belt because you'll be using your Mustang accessories pulleys)
-Jackshaft Belt (Dayco Part# 5070425)
-Blower Belt (Dayco Part# 5080393)
-Super Coupe upper radiator hose
-Teflon IC tube gasket set (not needed, but they are the cat's meow. You can get an air tight seal on your intercooler tubes without using that nasty messy tape stuff. I got mine from Ddubb @ sccoa.com, he makes them)
-Engine Gasket set (I got mine from supercoupeperformance.com...great place to deal with)
-Super Coupe spark plugs gapped at .035" (gap specified by VMP tuning)
-Super Coupe thermostat (while you have the thermostat housing off, you might as well get a new thermostat...they're cheap)
-Fuel pump (Walbro 255lph for 94-97's and a Ford Focus 310lph for 98's)

Custom work needed:
-EGR block-off plate for the inlet plenum (mine is just made of an oval piece of scrap stainless steel that my dad brought home from work)

-Block off the EGR on the exhaust manifold (I took off the EGR tube, cut the tube and slid it thru the EGR nut. After I did that, I cut a piece of sheet metal into the shape of about a dime and put it in the hole of the EGR nut...where the tube used to be, and welded it there to fill the hole. I threaded the EGR nut, that is now completely sealed off, back on to the exhaust manifold)

-Throttle cable bracket (I took the Super Coupe throttle cable bracket and cut off the end where the super coupe throttle cable mounts to. I also took the Mustang throttle cable bracket and cut off the base that mounts to the Mustang upper intake manifold. Now that you're left with the end of the Mustang throttle cable bracket and the base of the Super Coupe throttle cable bracket, weld the two together. Make sure to mock it up before you weld it to make sure you are welding it in the right position!) As of right now, the cruise control cable is too short. This winter I plan on making a custom throttle cable bracket from scratch, which will make the cruise control fully functional. I am a drafter, so I will make a fully dimensioned drawing, including bend lines, and will post it here so everyone can make their own throttle cable bracket and have cruise control

-Air Conditioning...This is completely optional, depending on if you need A/C or not. I chose not to mainly to make things cheaper and less of a hassle. If you DO want A/C, you'll need to get A/C lines from a 94-95 Super Coupe. You'll need a local hydraullic hose shop to splice your Mustang low pressure side (comes from the accumulator/dryer and goes to the compresser) to the 94-95 Super Coupe low pressure side A/C line. As for the high pressure side (goes from the compresser to the condenser), that should hook up fine with no modifications.

Specialty Tools:
-Harmonic Balancer Removal Tool (not needed if you are swapping the Super Coupe stuff on to your 94-95 Mustang block OR if you are swapping in a complete 94-95 Super Coupe engine)
-Power Steering Pump Pulley Puller (the pulley needs to be removed in order to transfer the power steering pump from your Mustang accessores bracket to the Super Coupe accessories bracket)
-Fuel Line Disconnect Tool (a set can be purchased for somewhere around $5-$10 at autozone, you'll need these to detach your fuel lines from the fuel rail and you'll use them to disconnect the A/C lines)

Vacuum Lines
-from the Inlet Plenum to the threaded fitting on the upper intake
-from the Inlet Plenum to the PCV valve on drivers side valve cover
-there should be 3 fittings on the Inlet Plenum, the third one should be capped off
-from the Upper Intake to a boost/vacuum gauge
-from the Upper Intake to a T fitting, one going to the fuel pressure regulator and one to the bypass valve
-from the threaded fitting on the Upper Intake to the shorter of the two brake booster lines
-from the PCV valve on the passenger side valve cover to the air intake tube (between the MAF and throttle body)
-from the brake booster (the longer of the two coming from the brake booster) to a T fitting, one going to each vacuum line for the interior vents (both vacuum lines are located on the far passenger side of the firewall)

Now, how hard it is?

Well that all depends, if you have the complete motor it will be a lot easier, basically just drop the motor in and customize the wiring and hoses and a few other things. Finding all the needed parts is the hard part, where as a complete motor has everything you need.

A lot of custom work is needed to get everything hooked up, I had to make custon cooling hoses where the heater core is, I had to cut the throttle cable bracket to clear the hoses so I could not use the cruise control cable, so no cruise. The EGR needed to be deleted since there is very little room where it hooks up, the engine is very close to the firewall, I may try and get it to work with customizing the EGR just for emissions, not sure yet. You will also need a very good tune to make this setup work, trust me, I have been there. You will need to make a custom air inlet from the air filter to the TB, that's not too hard, also if using a custom IC setup, then thats all got to be made as well, piping, brackets IC etc. The SC motor has 2 extra sensors they are the knock sensor and oil level sensor, we can live without these, and besides our mustang harness will not plug into them so we can't sue them anyways, all other sensors will work, just need to lengthen wires to reach them. With my custom IC setup I had to move my battery to the trunk as well, but if you use the stock SC IC then you'll be fine.

How will my mustang block hold up?

Well the SC came with a stronger crank, pistons and rods to handle the extra power. The SC block is also stronger. The mustang block has proven itself to be fairly strong as well, no one has broken one yet at least. No one really knows for sure how long the mustang pistons and rods and crank will hold up to the roots setup, I have been told that the rings would be the first to go, the mustang has a higher compression ratio, but something about the location of the ring and or something is better on the SC pistons, don't quote me on that, its hearsay right now. Stock SC compression is 8.5:1, I am running 9:1 with forged pistons in my setup. I have heard about guys even running above 10:1 with the roots blower but I don't think they push their motors too hard either, more for show.

I have also heard of guys running 4.2 SC motors, with no problems, except for one guy who keeps busting cranks, SC cranks at that, I think his problem lies elsewhere though.

FAQ

Q: is there a way to keep the cruise control AND the air conditioning?
A: SC's the throttle and cruise cables run behind the intakes where the mustangs run over the intakes. I had to cut the mounting bracket to clear the heater core hose inlet/outet from the firewall, its not the cable that's the problem its the bracket that holds the cable to the TB.

Q: I'm thinking of putting an M90 setup on my 96 Tbird 3.8. Will the M90 stuff bolt right up to my intakes, TB, radiator, tranny cooler, etc? Is the M90 a direct bolt on or do I still need to change alot of stuff?

A: No, the intakes, throttle body, and radiator will not fit. The stock Supercoupe setup includes a specific intake hose, throttle body, inlet plenum, M90 blower, intercooler and piping, shorter radiator to fit next to the intercooler, a return plenum, and lower intake manifold. So, yeah, there's a lot more to it than just a blower. Some of the intercooler stuff can be custom made to work with your stock radiator, but the rest will have to be changed.


Q: Do you use the mustang wiring harness when doing this swap? What about the barometric pressure sensors? my mustang harness does not have provision for them with 89 super coupe motor in 94 mustang

A: don't worry about the BAP sensor. Your basically adding a blower to the mustang motor, even if you use the SC complete motor. The computer is still the stang computer. So it just thinks you added the blower. Plus the SC computer is an OBDI computer and the stang is OBDII which is better. You just don't use a few sensors the SC had. The SC was a luxury sports car and had so many extra sensors, like air ride control coolant level etc etc etc.

Q: Can i use the mustang idle control valve on the sc t.body?
A: Yes, in fact, you should ONLY use the Mustang IAC. This also avoids splicing a connector

Q: on the air temp sensor do i use the mustang or tbird sc part. if i use the tbird piece can i use the mustang connector?
A: yes, again, only use the Mustang sensor.

Pics of most of the parts needed



Pics of the completed project


Last edited by jthorn9; 05-03-2011 at 02:08 PM.
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