V6 (1994-2004) Mustangs Technical discussions on the 3.8L and 3.9L V6 torque monsters

2001 won't stay running after 1.5 years in storage

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Old 01-07-2012, 03:35 PM
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redstang86
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Default 2001 won't stay running after 1.5 years in storage

Ouch...With help from the forum I got the V6 almost started after over a year in garaged storage. But I had to leave the state before I could get it going. Now it is sitting idle until I can revisit to try to get it going to then drive it 1100 miles north for sale. Any thoughts on what should be tried next?

Checked:

New battery
New gas
Both Key FOBs work to lock unlock doors.
Tripped and reset rear fuel lockout.
spark yes.
starter fluid in throttle body - runs for 5-10 seconds.

Pressure at fuel rail - no or maybe (not sure I was testing it right)
Could not check codes.

From research I suspect it is the fuel filter, solenoid, etc.

I hate to do it but I might have to sell it as is and coordinate the sale from 1000mi away - i will take a huge hit and this 'stang was cherry!

Any help with this conundrum appreciated.
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Old 01-07-2012, 08:48 PM
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petrock
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Originally Posted by redstang86
Pressure at fuel rail - no or maybe (not sure I was testing it right)
Rent a fuel pressure tester kit from your local auto parts store (you get your money back when you return it) and attach the guage to the Schrader valve on the fuel rail. Then put the key in the ignition and turn it to the ON position (not RUN, so don't start the car). If the needle doesn't move then you have no fuel pressure.

When you do this you should hear the fuel pump spin up. Do you?


Originally Posted by redstang86
Could not check codes.
What prevented you from checking the codes?


Originally Posted by redstang86
From research I suspect it is the fuel filter, solenoid, etc
Replacing the fuel filter wouldn't hurt, but I doubt it is your problem.

My guess is either no or low fuel pressure
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Old 01-08-2012, 09:44 AM
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mustangmike09
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chances are a new fuel filter wont kill ya. Most likely needs one regaurdless.

Possible some crud built up. Almost wanna say seafoam, but if it wont run that **** wont go through anyways ...
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Old 01-08-2012, 08:26 PM
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redstang86
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Thanks -

While cranking it did sound like the fuel pump was whirring - or something was whirring!

Also, I depressed the fuel rail shrader valve while the wife was cranking the engine and nothing leaked out. So assuming that pressure is nil I am trying to narrow down my next moves.

Don't know how to read the codes - if I need a special reader I do not have one of those.
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Old 01-09-2012, 02:15 AM
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petrock
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Originally Posted by redstang86
While cranking it did sound like the fuel pump was whirring - or something was whirring!
Don't6 crank the motor. There are too many other sounds going on to hear the fuel pump (like the starter), even if you had bionic hearing-aids. Just put the key into the ON position and listen. It will be a faint whistle sound coming from the fuel tank for a couple of seconds and then it will stop. It is the sound of the fuel pump priming the fuel system and building pressure to start the car.


Originally Posted by redstang86
Also, I depressed the fuel rail shrader valve while the wife was cranking the engine and nothing leaked out.
Your lucky nothing came out. Normal fuel presure is somewhere between 35 and 45 PSI. If there was even a couple PSI of pressure behind it fuel would have squirted out all over you and your motor. It would ruin your day if you got some in your eyes. It also makes for a nice fire hazard especially with the ignition system firing due to your wife cranking the motor. In other words, don't do that again...


Originally Posted by redstang86
So assuming that pressure is nil I am trying to narrow down my next moves.
The next move all depends on if you hear the fuel pump spin up when you put the key in the ON position. Find out and report back...


Originally Posted by redstang86
Don't know how to read the codes - if I need a special reader I do not have one of those.
Yes, you need an ODB2 Diagnostic Code Reader. You can pick one up at your local auto parts store for between $30 and $300 depending on the features. They are pretty handy. However, I wouldn't worry about that right now.
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Old 01-09-2012, 10:36 AM
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mustangmike09
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Go to part store, buy filter and quick disconnect tool. Jack up rear, unscrew the thing, pull of clips, use disconnect, and rag to not spill fuel. Smoke just before you do this not during. Put new one in.
Pay attention to fuel quality once if any spills ... details ya know

Anyways put new one in opisite of removal basically. Re try.

If not the problem a new filter is always a good thing You'll then make the decision of having ford go plug in your system to test diagnostics on the electrical system for a **** ton of money and have a better idea if not know exactly what your problem is. Or get a fuel pump, drop the tank, pull the pump, exchange, install. GO
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Old 01-09-2012, 09:20 PM
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redstang86
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Excellent suggestions guys thanks! And thanks for helping me take this one step at a time based on the logistics that is extremely helpful. This car is a peach and worth getting running again at least to sell to someone who will appreciate its fine condition...other than the not starting part lol.

So, to clarify, I did listen at key turn postiioon one where things start to click and "turn on" but not at full key crank. And at that time I was listening up front thinking mistakenly that the pump was up front and I heard nothing from the rear.

So...next steps...easy to harder.

Check fuel pump fuse #14 (a 20 amp mini-fuse) located in the main junction box.
Check codes with
Check fuel pump fuse.
Change fuel filter
Inspect gas
Raise rear seat and change fuel pump while I am at it.
All else fails get it towed to the dealer. : (

Sweet. I feel like I am making progress and saving $$$ even if I can't get at the car at the moment. Thanks -
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