How to lower your Stang!
06-13-2007, 12:48 AM
#1
How to lower your Stang!
OK, here you go, a comprehensive how-to on installing front and rear springs.
Tools required:
wrenches or sockets
14mm for sway bar, and front brake caliper removal
15mm rear shock removal
18mm rear shock removal
21mm (2) for front strut removal
Floor jack
Jack stands
Gloves
Hacksaw
Prybar
Tools preferred:
Impact gun
Cutoff wheel or sawzall
Front spring replacement
Step 1:
Jack up front end
Place jack stands on frame
remove wheels
Step 2:
Remove brake caliper and hang on hook so as to not put stress in the brake hose:
Step 3:
Place jack under spring seat and raise up until suspension lightly compresses:
Step 4:
Remov top nut and bushing for sway bar:
Step 5:
Remove strut/spindle bolts:
Step 6:
Slowly relieve jack tension to allow sindle to drop slightly in order to remove strut:
Step 7:
Remove upper nut on strut and remove strut:
Step 8:
Slowly relieve jack pressure until suspension is completely extended:
Step 9:
Remove spring by using your foot to apply pressure to the lower control arm. A prybar may be necessary if there is still slight tension on spring:
Step 10:
Place spring insulators on new/newly cut springs and reinstall ensuring that the end of the spring seats in the perch on the lower control arm:
Step 11:
Use jack to raise suspension back up ensuring that the sway bar endlink goes through the eyelet:
Step12:
Reinstall strut in upper mount, then rebolt to spindle. Reinstall brake rotor and caliper. Reinstall wheel, jack car up, remove jack stands. When lowering the car down on the jack, go slowly so ensure that the jack will clear the newly lowered body. If there are issues raise car back up and use blocks so that the jack can be safely removed.
Rear Spring replacement:
Step 1:
Jack up rear end
Place stand in front of rear lower control arms
Remove rear wheels
Step 2:
Loosen lower rear shock bolt, do not remove!:
Step 3:
Place jack under differential and lightly compress suspension, remove lower shock bolt:
Step 4:
Slowly relieve tension from jack:
Step 5:
With all tension off of rear suspension, remove spring and replace with new/newly cut spring and spring isolators
Step 6:
Use jack on axle to compress suspension, replace lower shock bolt.
Step 7:
Reinstall wheels, jack car up, remove stands and lower car using the same care as with the front, as the fuel tank may end up resting on jack.
Step 8:
Go get an alignment ad enjoy your new stance!
IF YOU WANT TO CUT YOUR SPRINGS, CONTINUE READING:
Cutting your springs is a perfectly legitimate way of improving the looks and handling of a Mustang. It's a proven fact that a properly modified factory spring is better than 90% of the best/most common aftermarket springs on the market. For auto-x use they set the in-lb rate almost perfect without going to a coil-over/k-member/tubular control arm setup. Don't do it unless you change your shocks/struts, or you'll bounce all over in short time.
To get the proper height, start at 3/4 of a coil all the way around, and let it settle for a few weeks. It will most likely drop up to 1/4" during settling alone, aside from what you removed. DO NOT USE HEAT TO CUT THEM!!!!! Try to use a hacksaw(the slow way) or a cutoff wheel(the smart way) jsut try not to let it get too hot. If you want to go lower, do it 1/4 coil at a time, at the most, and let settle again for a few weeks again. It sucks to cut too much, because there's no way to put it back. My sig pic is with 18's and 1 1/4 coils removed.
Step 1:
With spring removed, mark where you want to cut. It's best to cut less and go back to cut a little more than to cut too much
Step 2:
Wearing gloves and safety glasses (full face shield is preferred), use cutoff wheel or hacksaw to remove coil, DO NOT USE A TORCH!:
Step 3:
Reinstall newly cut spring.
That's it for now.
Ryan
Tools required:
wrenches or sockets
14mm for sway bar, and front brake caliper removal
15mm rear shock removal
18mm rear shock removal
21mm (2) for front strut removal
Floor jack
Jack stands
Gloves
Hacksaw
Prybar
Tools preferred:
Impact gun
Cutoff wheel or sawzall
Front spring replacement
Step 1:
Jack up front end
Place jack stands on frame
remove wheels
Step 2:
Remove brake caliper and hang on hook so as to not put stress in the brake hose:
Step 3:
Place jack under spring seat and raise up until suspension lightly compresses:
Step 4:
Remov top nut and bushing for sway bar:
Step 5:
Remove strut/spindle bolts:
Step 6:
Slowly relieve jack tension to allow sindle to drop slightly in order to remove strut:
Step 7:
Remove upper nut on strut and remove strut:
Step 8:
Slowly relieve jack pressure until suspension is completely extended:
Step 9:
Remove spring by using your foot to apply pressure to the lower control arm. A prybar may be necessary if there is still slight tension on spring:
Step 10:
Place spring insulators on new/newly cut springs and reinstall ensuring that the end of the spring seats in the perch on the lower control arm:
Step 11:
Use jack to raise suspension back up ensuring that the sway bar endlink goes through the eyelet:
Step12:
Reinstall strut in upper mount, then rebolt to spindle. Reinstall brake rotor and caliper. Reinstall wheel, jack car up, remove jack stands. When lowering the car down on the jack, go slowly so ensure that the jack will clear the newly lowered body. If there are issues raise car back up and use blocks so that the jack can be safely removed.
Rear Spring replacement:
Step 1:
Jack up rear end
Place stand in front of rear lower control arms
Remove rear wheels
Step 2:
Loosen lower rear shock bolt, do not remove!:
Step 3:
Place jack under differential and lightly compress suspension, remove lower shock bolt:
Step 4:
Slowly relieve tension from jack:
Step 5:
With all tension off of rear suspension, remove spring and replace with new/newly cut spring and spring isolators
Step 6:
Use jack on axle to compress suspension, replace lower shock bolt.
Step 7:
Reinstall wheels, jack car up, remove stands and lower car using the same care as with the front, as the fuel tank may end up resting on jack.
Step 8:
Go get an alignment ad enjoy your new stance!
IF YOU WANT TO CUT YOUR SPRINGS, CONTINUE READING:
Cutting your springs is a perfectly legitimate way of improving the looks and handling of a Mustang. It's a proven fact that a properly modified factory spring is better than 90% of the best/most common aftermarket springs on the market. For auto-x use they set the in-lb rate almost perfect without going to a coil-over/k-member/tubular control arm setup. Don't do it unless you change your shocks/struts, or you'll bounce all over in short time.
To get the proper height, start at 3/4 of a coil all the way around, and let it settle for a few weeks. It will most likely drop up to 1/4" during settling alone, aside from what you removed. DO NOT USE HEAT TO CUT THEM!!!!! Try to use a hacksaw(the slow way) or a cutoff wheel(the smart way) jsut try not to let it get too hot. If you want to go lower, do it 1/4 coil at a time, at the most, and let settle again for a few weeks again. It sucks to cut too much, because there's no way to put it back. My sig pic is with 18's and 1 1/4 coils removed.
Step 1:
With spring removed, mark where you want to cut. It's best to cut less and go back to cut a little more than to cut too much
Step 2:
Wearing gloves and safety glasses (full face shield is preferred), use cutoff wheel or hacksaw to remove coil, DO NOT USE A TORCH!:
Step 3:
Reinstall newly cut spring.
That's it for now.
Ryan
06-13-2007, 12:56 AM
#3
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Central NJ
Posts: 2,158
RE: How to lower your Stang!
about a month ago mustangmike2001 and I wrote a writeup on lowering your car front and rear and we never recieved a contributor tag and it was never made into a sticky we are still hoping for it...
06-13-2007, 12:59 AM
#4
RE: How to lower your Stang!
It's a road warrior, not a trailer queen lol. This was literally te first time I was able to even touch my car for something other than puting in gas in a months. It was killing me. It took forever to redo the springs because I had to stop every 5 seconds to wash my hands and take a picture. lol
I'm going to be doing a coilover install and 4bolt cc plate install soon as well. Maybe one day a nitrous how-to as well.
I need a shop assistant!
Ryan
I'm going to be doing a coilover install and 4bolt cc plate install soon as well. Maybe one day a nitrous how-to as well.
I need a shop assistant!
Ryan
06-13-2007, 01:00 AM
#5
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Alabama
Posts: 5,173
RE: How to lower your Stang!
yea i know what u mean, thats why its so hard for me to do write ups, i forget about pics and get straight to work, by the time im done is when i think about the how-to
little late then
little late then
06-13-2007, 01:24 AM
#6
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Illinois
Posts: 753
RE: How to lower your Stang!
Don't do it unless you change your shocks/struts, or you'll bounce all over in short time.
06-13-2007, 01:32 AM
#7
RE: How to lower your Stang!
Yes it really is important, but it's not important due to the method of the drop, but due to the fact that when you lower your car, suspension travel changes, and old stock shocks can't really handle it for long. It wears them out faster, if they aren't already on their way out.
Ryan
Ryan
