DaveyJones59

To start out I have two questions. I drive a 2001 mustang convertible base model 5 speed manual.

I took my car to get my state inspection before registration and the guy asked me if I had disconnected my battery recently. I told him I did to install my amp and he told me to drive about 100 miles to clear the problem up. I drove 318 mils in varying conditions of stop and go traffic and about 40 highway miles. I took it back to get it inspected and it is still throwing 2 error codes saying the sensors arent registering because the battery has been recently disconnected. Any ideas?

Second question:
When I am shifting gears clutch in fully it will shift normally unless I run that gear to 4.5k+RPM (redlines at 5.5k and fuel cuts at 6.5k) then with clutch fully pressed it is a B**** and a helf to pull it out of gear and it wont go into the next gear until the rpms drop to under 3k (almost like shifting on synchros without clutching). Also when I am pulling up to a red light or stop sign I go to pull from whatever gear into 1st and it refuses to go into gear until it drops below 20 miles per hour. Also sometimes with clutch fully depressed it grinds when getting pulled into 4th gear. Any Ideas?


PO171 Bank 1 lean

P1285 Cylinder head over temp

Battery recently disconnected.
I have 200xxx miles on it and the heat needle sits in the middle and the coolant is filled

PNYXPRESS

Well, it sounds like it needs a new clutch/pressure plate for the shifting issue

DaveyJones59

There is now a p1815 something about a mass airflow unit being stuck open

jwog666

P1518 Ford - Intake Manifold Runner Control Fault Stuck Open

you must mean this, 1815 is for 4x4 and not applicable, check the intake manifold runner control for binding, and for broken retainer clips at teh motor/ shaft connections. this is not related to your other codes. and please stop posting multiple posts for the same questions, its against the rules

TfcCDR

Get an OBD II reader and reset your codes.

Then go drive 100 miles WITHOUT turning on your amp.

Check the code reader again (even if the idiot light didn't come on).

If the problem is gone, go get your inspection. After the inspection, then experiment to see if the amp (or the installation) is bringing you your codes. If it's a big amp, it's entirely possible that when those big capacitors swamp (when you switch it on), they're pulling your voltage down low enough and long enough that the computer sees a POWERFAIL fault.

We had just this problem on our BMW motorcycles a few years ago -- you would hit the release for the shotgun lock, and it pulled voltage down for just a split second. The problem was that our sirens activate by a click of the button (like a mouse click), and sometimes when pulling out the shotgun, the siren would activate! The solution for this was a relay-operated lead directly to the auxiliary battery, but for a while we goosed up engine RPM to 2000 (activating the charge circuit for the aux battery) when pulling the shotgun out.

If the amp is pulling down the voltage and giving you POWERFAIL, you might try buffering the power-up by goosing the RPMs up and holding them at 1500, then turn on the amp before turning on the radio. This will give you full output from your alternator, while starting the amp at its lowest current draw. Once the caps are swamped, things should work okay.

You also should have your battery checked. You may have a weak cell.