DaedalusOS

So, I've had this car for 3 months now, bought her from some tiny car dealership. Not perfect, but it's the year that I wanted. The main issue currently is the fact that when I put it into 5th gear, it grinds.

I'll be going down the road, 55+ mph, over 2k, so I throw it in 5th. It grinds upon the initial insertion, but after that it's fine. Once I'm in 5th gear, it doesn't care at all. I can take it out of 5th, then put it back in, and it does not grind. If I swap to any other gear then put it back into 5th, it grinds. The grinding is about a half second to full second long.

I have absolutely no idea when it comes to car mechanics, so I'm hoping that some of you could give me some insight as to what the actual problem is.

I talked to my brother in law, who looked at it, explained it to his mechanic friend, and they said that the 5th gear synchronizer is going out. (I've got some idea of what that does after he explained it to me) Their suggestion was to basically buy a rebuilt/new transmission. If this is what I have to do, then I'll do it. However since I'm going to school currently, this would be pretty difficult to accomplish.

Is that the actual issue, is it something else, what should I do?

(Also I apologize if this is the wrong section)

dawson1112

Grinding is an almost sure sign that the synchro blocker ring is worn out on 5th gear. Its actually the easiest of all the synchros to replace since you dont have to break down the entire main shaft like you do for 1st and 2nd.

User 92421

just never put it in 5th

DaedalusOS

Yes, thank you, that's so helpful.

So I should just get that synchronizer replaced then? Any idea how much that would cost?

Chromeshadow

If you are on a budget-you might try rev matching to reduce the grinding, but I would definitely change the transmission oil and check for metal. Magnetic particles are usually from gears and bearings, copper particles are usually from syncros. (not sure if your trans used copper syncros).
Can you pull the transmission yourself? that can save alot. If you do have it rebuilt, check the clutch, pressure plate, pilot bearing and throw out bearing as well as the clutch release mechanism. The labor cost to remove the trans usually makes it worth while to replace these while you have everything apart.

User 92421

wait at the gate. similar technique to rev matching only you hole the **** almost into 5th, and feel forwhen the revs get close then jam it in hard

Chromeshadow

We still talking about cars?

DaedalusOS

Uhm, well, I checked my oil level once... I have 0 experience with machanical work on cars. How would I go about checking for metal pieces? Is that something I could do myself or should I take it to a shop?

Chromeshadow

Depends, is this your first car? Do you have a place to work on it safely? Good jack and jack stands?
Do you have a friend you can help you if you get stuck? Do you want to learn more about your car and taking car of it? Most of us started with little knowledge about cars, but either a love of cars, or we couldn't afford to pay someone else.

DaedalusOS

First car, got a covered garage area behind where I live, neither of those, yes, and definitely.

I'm keeping this car. Only thing that can get rid of it is if it goes up in flames. I want to take good care of it. The dude before me decided it was a race car, had to get every seal in the rear end replaced, back tires were **** (got all 4 brand new Goodyear Eagle Sport tires a few weeks back). Getting Raxiom Angel Eye headlights here shortly, current headlights are fogged to hell, and most likely water damaged (rubber seals are gone), need entire car repainted, need right front fender replaced (same thing, idiot before me).

I want to learn all I can so I will be able to take care of it in the future.