Paul Blakey

Window motors on these cars are a pain to get out. try this test first before going the the headache of removing the motor. My issue turned out to be a bad switch and everything else was fine. Hope this helps some people.

redass02gt

Idea is sound, but you want to be careful running a 12v motor from that 20v battery. Not likely during a very short use with that voltage, but it's possible to cause damage by applying more voltage than the components are expected to see. Or maybe that motor can handle 200volts without issue. You could also bypass the switch and use the car's power to test.

Paul Blakey

I thought about bypassing and testing it but this was easier and faster. I did have a smaller battery but it was dead so I used my battery off my drill. did this several times at the salvage yard with 0 problems testing motors before I pull them. It does have me curious on how much they handle because its obviously more than 12v. I wouldnt go higher than that though. its not necessary.

dawson1112

I wouldnt worry the voltage much. Its only about 5.5v over what it normally would run on with the alternator generating about 14.5v. A DC motor is only going to use what it needs any ways. How ever I would be more concerned for the life of the battery since the amp draw from the window motor probably exceeds the battery.

Paul Blakey

interesting point. I found and old dewalt 12v on the shelf I can use in the future. you can also test the switch for power by disconnecting the connector to the motor and connecting a volt meter. then turn the car key to the on position and hit the up or down button. If you get a reading on the volt meter, then your switch is good and your motor is on is last leg. you should get a (-) or (+) reading when clicking the switch either direction. I got a range from 8 - 12 volts. That will narrow down your problem in a heart beat.

My switch is good now but my motor is still working when it wants to. so I bought a new one and put that in. problems officially gone.