bpm009

Ok, I am at a standstill. I had a bad alternator, took it into AutoZone to be tested, was found faulty, bought a new one. Now with the new alternator I was able to get the car started but was running low on the voltage gauge. Upon checking with a multimeter the voltage at the battery and alternator was barely reading 10V when idling with no lights/accessories on. Thought it was a bad alternator again (AutoZone sells re-manufactured ones) took it in and everything checked out good.

Took the battery in to do the same, battery was low but still good and after charging it and putting it back in the car I have around 12.5V reading at the battery and alternator, no voltage drop between the two but the battery light still shows on the dash. Using power window buttons seems to dim the dome light more than I remember but otherwise it seems normal other than the battery light.

TLDR: Any suggestions as to what might be throwing the battery light other than alternator, battery or cable between the two?

Derf00

A good charging system should be putting out about 13.8 to 14.4V at the alternator when running and should see the same at the battery.

That is why the light keeps flickering, 12.5v is enough to keep the car running but not charge the battery at idle. Under load, you're probably draining the battery since the Alt isn't putting out enough.

I avoid Autozone for most things except some chemicals. You never know who their supplier is for their Duralast brand.

Return the alternator and buy one from Rock Auto. They carry Motorcraft (Reman), AC-Delco (New), Bosch New and Reman for probably less than what Autozone is charging you for some unknown paper weight.

http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/f...generator,2412