Fuel Pump not running, electrical diagnosis...
#1
Fuel Pump not running, electrical diagnosis...
I tripped on a barn (garage) find, a 1998 Mustang convertible with only 7,500 miles on the odometer. Owner died and his wife just kept the car in the garage. Had not been started or driven in at least 6 years. Car has a 3.8L V6 engine. I made a deal with her to buy the car, pulled the drive shaft and used a dolly to bring it home.
First thing I did was install a new battery, turned the key and I did NOT hear a fuel pump running (also note, the fuel gauge sits a ¾ and does not move). I checked the fuse under the hood, it was good, then I check the inertia cut-off switch in the trunk, also good (I actually tripped it and re-set it to make sure). I pulled apart the electrical connector in the rear behind the fuel tank, there are 4 pins, one had 12 volts, one had I think 7, the other two nothing. Is this correct?? (I saw a youtube video that implied I should have voltage on all 4?)
As far as a fuel pump relay, I learned that it is housed in Constant Control Relay Module (CCRM). I pulled the passenger side wheel & tire liner to expose it and pulled it out (looks like new, and my research says they are pretty reliable). I did check for voltage going to it (pin 5) and it was 12 V, but I’m not sure if there is a way to actually check the CCRM itself?
I did siphon the gas out through an upper vent tube opening in the tank and I’ve got the fuel filter off, ready for a replacement. Before I install the filter, I was planning on putting a hose on that fitting to drain the rest of the fuel out (if there is any left) once I get the fuel pump to run.
So what’s next to check to determine if the fuel pump is trash or it’s an electrical problem. Again, not sure if the electrical connector in the rear is suppose to have voltage on all 4 pins?
Thanks for any help you can offer!
Art
First thing I did was install a new battery, turned the key and I did NOT hear a fuel pump running (also note, the fuel gauge sits a ¾ and does not move). I checked the fuse under the hood, it was good, then I check the inertia cut-off switch in the trunk, also good (I actually tripped it and re-set it to make sure). I pulled apart the electrical connector in the rear behind the fuel tank, there are 4 pins, one had 12 volts, one had I think 7, the other two nothing. Is this correct?? (I saw a youtube video that implied I should have voltage on all 4?)
As far as a fuel pump relay, I learned that it is housed in Constant Control Relay Module (CCRM). I pulled the passenger side wheel & tire liner to expose it and pulled it out (looks like new, and my research says they are pretty reliable). I did check for voltage going to it (pin 5) and it was 12 V, but I’m not sure if there is a way to actually check the CCRM itself?
I did siphon the gas out through an upper vent tube opening in the tank and I’ve got the fuel filter off, ready for a replacement. Before I install the filter, I was planning on putting a hose on that fitting to drain the rest of the fuel out (if there is any left) once I get the fuel pump to run.
So what’s next to check to determine if the fuel pump is trash or it’s an electrical problem. Again, not sure if the electrical connector in the rear is suppose to have voltage on all 4 pins?
Thanks for any help you can offer!
Art
#2
I'm gonna tread carefully here, because I seem to recall 1998 being an oddball year for some reason(s).
First thing that stands out to me is the electrical connector. If it's anything like my '95, one of those pins should be ground, so no, you shouldn't see voltage on all four pins. The fuel pump wire should be brown with a pink stripe.
CCRMs have been known to fail from time to time, but I believe that the later ones like yours tend to be more reliable on account of Ford moving them from the hot engine compartment to the cooler fender area. Right now, it sounds like it's doing its job as far as the fuel pump is concerned.
First thing that stands out to me is the electrical connector. If it's anything like my '95, one of those pins should be ground, so no, you shouldn't see voltage on all four pins. The fuel pump wire should be brown with a pink stripe.
CCRMs have been known to fail from time to time, but I believe that the later ones like yours tend to be more reliable on account of Ford moving them from the hot engine compartment to the cooler fender area. Right now, it sounds like it's doing its job as far as the fuel pump is concerned.
#6
Yeah, I checked that inertia switch and it was fine. I was hoping it would be the problem, but I wasn't that lucky. The fuel pump was seized up due to sitting in bad/old gas for so long...
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ComputerGuyKyle
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04-08-2015 01:58 PM