Ken Rogers

Tomorrow's the day. I know I've brought this topic up several times already. I guess I'm a little nervous, and I just want to be as cautious as possible. (It's going to be my body that will be stuck under the weight of my car if things go wrong, so I might as well ask questions beforehand!).

I realize that the proper jacking points are under the doors beneath the skirts, but I'm concerned about damaging the skirts with the stands. I'm not certain of the exact spot the stands are supposed to go, either. Please have a look.




As a jacking alternative, I also included a snapshot of my car supported by it's front crossmember with jackstands and a 2x4. I didn't raise it very high, as it was just a trial test. I'd like your opinions on this possibility as well.



Ken

Jimp

What i do is put my floor jack "HERE" and my jack stands approximately "OR THIS THING". LOL! HTH!

WindVeil05DropTop

The jack stands should go on the notch on the left (where it says "Here?"). They will not hurt your side skirts. Also, don't jack it up with a 2*4 like that, it's unsafe. It could slip out. Your car is made of steel, it's tough... don't worry about the jack stands hurting it. Put the jack stand right under the crossmember.

Ken Rogers

Thanks for the quick replies. I'll take your advice and do just that.

Next question: How do I unscrew all 10 oil pan bolts without making a mess? (That's a joke )

Ken

Thomas Ford

I've replied to this before. I jack up the passenger side by rolling the jack underneath to the frame (black). Then for safety I put one jack stand where it says"here" by the door. Then I crawl in from the front and get 'er done. Sounds like your going to way too much trouble. Also, dont worry about jacking up just one side. The oil drains just fine with the passenger side up. My two cents. Again.
Tom
[:@]

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Blueeyes

Your concern is very justified!! If you lose a jack while under your car, in all probability you will be at least partially crushed. Our mustangs don't have much ground clearance!!

Set the emergency brake. Always jack on a LEVEL surface. A sloped surface can cause the car to tip right off the jacks, especially when you're wrestling with something underneath. Block both sides of whatever wheels will remain on the ground to keep them from rolling (applies the most when jacking one or both rear wheels). Only use jack stands that are known to be heavy duty. I won't use it unless it's rated at least 2 tons, and I prefer the cast rachet jacks over the all formed metal and pin designs. If you use ramps, only use heavy duty with bracing, and again always on a level surface. If the ground is sloped to the side, un-reinforced ramps can fold right over.

I use a 12 ton floor jack to hoist one side at the front body seam jack point, then place a HD jackstand under any frame or suspension component front of the jack that looks like it will not get damaged under the weight of the car. I then lower the car to the jack stand, and then jack back up to the car. The jack stand supports the car, and I leave the jack in place as a backup.

To change the oil, it's only necessary to jack one side, but I can't remember which side it was--I think it was passenger, but it's opposite the side of the oil pan drain. Whichever side it was, I found that when the oil stopped draining, lowering the car to level did not cause more oil to drain, so it can be left up for the whole oil change.

FWIW, Changing the oil on the V6 is very messy. The oil shoots out the side of the pan for a while, then tapers off and gets all over a frame member. The filter drippings get all over the car and ground too. I have a big supply of New Pig oil mats, so I always use plent of those. Probably costs more for me to do it when adding in the mats (and time), but I know it was done right! (there's a joke about that circulating around)

Ken Rogers

Done!

Thanks to everyone for their help and patience. I realize that an oil change is a very minor procedure to many of you, but for me it was a good starting point. I will eventually be under there doing performance mods, once I get my knowledge up.

Someone was asking what the plug size is... I used a 13mm socket and it fit perfectly (I'm in Canada, so I'm not sure if inches would be used in the U.S.A. I managed to avoid any spillage using cardboard to guide any drippings from the filter to the floor pan. I noticed the Motorcraft filter I bought was slightly deeper (longer) than the factory one. The guy at Ford Parts gave me an FL-820-S filter. It fits, and it doesn't leak, so I'm sure he's correct.

Thanks again!!!

Ken

blackfoot

yes it takes a fl 820, and it doesnt matter if its in the US or canada, everywhere uses metric and standard sizes.. 13mm is the correct wrench to use


in the future if your jacking again.. use the 2x4 idea... without the 2x4 or place the stands in the "HERE" area