Plex

I actually work for a company that does the X-plan, when i went in to look at some mustangs back when i bought mine, they said that the mustangs were such a hot seller that the X-plan doesn't apply to them, do you think this is a legitimate claim or was the guy blowing smoke up my ***?

sonicblue05

definately blowing you lol,
iv heard of plenty of people who bought their stand on x-plan

agv1965

Are you buying this with cash??? If not, well just write a check for 3,000 to 4,000 to me. That is how much you are going to loose as soon as you drive the lot. Let some one else take the loss. Have you looked at the 2005??? If you realy want a 2006 what I suggest is you find 2 or 3 dealerships around your area and start a bidding war against each other on the car, and trade in. Also talk price first before you talk trade in. When the dealer ask you how much you can afford a month, do not tell him. Let talk price first, then trade in, then montlhy payments. Good Luck!!!!

Fizzie06

screw that I mean its true but also you are paying that for peice of mind that some one did not drive the shlt out of it before you or it doesn't have 9 million things wrong with it or they didn't accidently put deisel in it before. BUY the new one if your going to keep it don't you want to know that its not fcked up or had stuff done to it that might not show up for awhile .........My 2 cents

MUSTloveSTANG

See this thread.....

https://mustangforums.com/m_1638761/tm.htm

There are lots of factors to figure in when considering the overall deal. +1 on the being able to walk out when you want !!! I had to do it a few times before someone would take me seriously

JStang78

When I first started looking, they had only been out a couple of months. My favorite quip I threw at this sales manager was, "fine dude, don't give me what I want (for my trade-in). You're not giving me a deal here. The only thing that can happen if I go somewhere else is they could give me a better deal."

Another one is: "That number in the window is only a basic idea. What matters to me is what I'm writing a check for every month, and 'this' is what I can afford." (by this point we were already close to a deal).

StickDriver

Same thing here, X-Plan does not apply to the Mustang.

moonstang

One other good tool to use before you go in is the ford web site. You can put in the exact configuration of that vehicle and it will show you what their dealer invoice pricing is. You can also view exactly what is in inventory at every dealership at your location. I hand picked mine and then went and negotiated with a dealership I knew and trusted and had them transfer the car in.

8cd03gro

this is what you do to get the best price. Talk to one salesmen about the car you want and get the lowest price he could possibly give it to you for (haggle like crazy) then say you are going to have to think about it, and leave. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE IT IN WRITING THE PRICE HE WOULD GIVE YOU. Then, you go back to the dealership to another salesman, do the trade in first, then talk about purchasing your mustang and if he gives you a ****ty price, show him the price you got from the other guy.

stewnstang

Recently I bought a new car for the first time ever, and was able to beat the target price I had set for myself. This was after I experienced a certain dealership attempting a bait and switch on me - so that really pissed me off and inspired me to do lots of research - everything ended well, but hopefully some of my experience can be helpful.

As others have mentioned kelly blue book (kbb.com) and edmunds.com are both good places to go for free pricing. I also found that the new car buying kit from consumer reports ($40) was well worth it for me because it also lists the holdback price for the dealer (this is usually about 6% lower than the invoice price on the sticker and what the dealer actually pays Ford (I think sometimes there might also be some further deals that lowers the cost for the dealership, but the holdback number is the closest you're going to know what the dealership actually paid).

The advice from consumer reports is to start the negotiating at the holdback price (an unreasonable request because then the dealership would be making 0 profit) with the goal of agreeing on close to invoice.

The particular dealership I went to had two manual 06 pony packages in the same color, so they were under a lot of pressure to move them (not many people want a manual in Los Angeles). The trap that the dealership fell into with my particular car is that they put all of the interior upgrades on a manaul V6, pushing the sticker price to 24400. What the dealer has in stock and how many 06's are left will affect how you should deal. No matter what you really want (leather, upgrades, pony package, etc.) you tell them that you really don't need all those options (their stock should be limited at this point) - I was able to save a lot of money by splitting the difference on options (300 for leather which costs 600 from the factory, etc.) - having the true costs of options and being able to line by line the sticker is helpful.

I was able to buy an 06 mustang on the xplan - but I'm sure back when the 06's were new and the 07's weren't right about to come out that some dealerships were refusing to accept it - the same way that really popular cars will sometimes sell above MSRP because there's such a high demand.

Right now is a great time to get a good deal on an 06 because dealers need to make rooms for the 07's.
Also, buying close to the end of the month (which you're doing) is good because that's when salesmen are really under the gun to hit their numbers.
Also, even though you don't want an 07, make them price one for you - the base price on the 07's aren't that far off from the 06's. Once they know that you know this, they'll make you a better deal on the 06 - why should I pay the same amount for a car that has half the warranty would be a good question to start with (NOTE: if they don't have that many 06's left, they might not be under any pressure to move them, and then it's time to find a different dealership).

Do some research, decide on the exact number you want to pay for the car, start the negotiations below that, and then be willing to walk off the lot if they can't reach it - Ford has lots of dealerships. Remember, that after you've settled on the car price is no time to relax - they're still going to try to get you to pay more through financing and extended warranties.

Eat before you go. Buying a car takes longer than you expect, and you don't want to be hungry or light headed when you're making a large financial decision. As you near the lot, call a friend and ask them to call your cell in 10-15 minutes (when you know you'll be with the salesman) - if they're not treating you right you can use it as an excuse to leave - if things are going well set an "appointment" to go look at a used car ("you were the only owner, had it serviced exclusively at ford, and kept it inside a hermetically sealed plastic bubble?)

Okay, I know these steps all seem excessive, but if you find a good dealership with a salesman who understands repeat business and word of mouth is his/her key - you won't have to use all of it. Lots of salesmen bully - if you sense that you're with one of those it's a fight you can't win...go to another dealership, or get someone else to help you.