HurricaneStang

Well the 1st time wasnt the greatest and the 2nd time was a tad bit better but tomorrow morning ill be going back for a 3rd try. Since i put the intake and tune on earlier in the week im feeling better about going. I did get in a bit of a highway race a couple days ago but havent fully tested out the new tune.

For anyone who sees this thread before i go, do any of you have any tips that i could pry use? Im not an experienced racer so anything you could give me will more then likely be useful. Launching, shifting, better reaction all those things are things i know i need to work on. Gates open at 10am so i know its short notice but im still trying to get something. Ill get back on after i get home and post my results, hopefully they are beter

P.S. My JLT rattles pretty bad at idle/low rpms. Does anyone know what i can do to fix this? I think its rattling where the intake is resting on the firewall mount.

Thanks

rygenstormlocke

On your JLT, I have heard about this problem with the early TI units, Demolet's solution was he fabbed up a sheild that the CAI rested in that eliminated all the rattles.

On the track, what kind of tires are you running? What is your baseline ET again? Here are some suggestions:

General

1. Traction Control Off
2. Turn off radio, AC, fans, etc.
3. Set FRONT tire pressure within a few PSI of max
4. Set REAR tire pressure lower, I ran my Pneros at 30psi, Fitbikeco (14.7 with CAI/Tune/Muffler) ran his Pneros at 25psi, some have gone as low as 20psi
5. Remove spare tire, jack, sub woofer, trunk carpet
6. Optional, remove lower rear seat

For Autos

1. Pump your brakes as you enter the lanes, this will jack up your brake pressure and lock your brakes so you can power brake at a higher RPM
2. Try to power brake between 1500-2000, start at 1500 and work your way up via increments of 100rpm. That is what I did.
3. OD Off!!!
4. On your XCAL2, jack up your shift press to 25% on your 1-2, 2-3 and 3-4 shifts (make sure you put it back before you leave the track, I think the Evol tune is set to 15% already)

Hope you get a chance to see this before you go. Good luck!!!!

rygenstormlocke

Also, when power braking, you want to launch at an RPM that you can barely hold the car back. It takes a few runs to find that "sweet spot", but you will find it. It's an rpm where your tires start to move just a tad while powerbraking. Just a wee tiny bit.

HurricaneStang

Alright so just got back. Wouldve stayed longer but there doing club racing and i have to work so i couldnt wait. I did get 1 run in and also my friend got 1 in with my car.

My run which is now my 3rd total was better then the previous. I ran a 15.64 @ 87.69mph and it wouldve been alittle better but when i went to shift from 2nd to 3rd i guess i shifted late and ended up redlining (limited anywayz) for a short time. Once again i had a bad reaction time also which i tried to get down but not yet, it was .656 and last time it was .712

My friend showed me up lol. He got a 15.192 @ 92.34mph and his reaction was also better with a .399

Well i wish i had more runs in but we hate fun. Gonna go back at least one more time before they close for the season.

petepete

i wouldnt manually shift your auto just leave it in drive and i bet youll better your time

rygenstormlocke

What tune are you running from Evolution?

beaustang

+1 let the tune/computer do it.

28HopUp

I also agree with that. Curious, what was your 60' time?

jericho73

Aye to what others have said, just leave it in D, manually shifting the auto is probably hurting your time.

05SDI

OK all the above is great info..
I can help you with your reaction time. DON'T wait until you see the green light!! There is .500 seconds between each light (I assume you are not getting a 'Pro' tree) So once the 3rd yellow light comes on GO!!!!! It takes you and your car over .500 seconds to move past the roll out beam and start the timing light. The whole idea about bracket racing is being consistant. Like others have said leave the shifter in Drive and launch at the same RPM every time. (3 passes is not nearly enough to figure out what works best for your car) When you are staging your car If you want better 60' times and lower ET's 'shallow stage' meaning STOP as soon as the 'Stagged' light comes on (second white light at top of tree) Now this will give you a slower reaction time BUT will allow your car to me moving before the timer beam is started and therefore you get a jump on the time distance measurements because you are moving faster. Yes it's very small amount but when measuring things to the 100th of a second or MPH it makes a difference. IF you want great reaction times (dependent on tire size and cars) there is about 6 to 8 inches of Roll out and you can 'deep stage' meaning you roll forward a few inches after the 'stagged' light has come on and THEN power break and get ready for the tree. It'll take a few times to figure out what works for you. Some trees or tracks will NOT allow you to "deep stage" meaning keep rolling until the 'pre stagged' light goes out. ASK before you do it or you might get a big Red light. Also when stagging line up straight and put your tires exactly in the middle of the rubber patches left from other cars (that's where the most traction is!) No need to have more then 1/4 to 1/2 tank of gas as that extra 60+ pounds is mass you have to get moving and really isn't helping you, some may argue it help traction but a consitant launch help traction WAY more!. Last that no one has said DRIVE IN A STRAIGHT LINE! 05SDI