amystery2u

I have a 4.0 that I upgraded to a GT front facia and used the Street Scene wiring harness to make the fogs work. After a recent accident I upgraded to the Roush facia and now I have the Roush harness and I can't get the Roush likghts to work. Anyone who has done this with success please tell me how you got both sets to work. I dont care if both sets work at the same time or not.

acstone7

hey man, im in the same boat haha. the roush wiring harness that comes with the front fascia has two ground wires and one hot wire that is connected to a power source that you can mount in your engine bay, it is made for the GT, thus tapping into the already existing fog lamps....you have to somehow run a wire into your power source provided( which i have no clue how to) and route that wiring to your electrical box...my guess, go somewhere that does electrical stuff haha

TTSRACINGWORLD

I have the same Roush frt end and will soon get it painted. I have a 2006 V6 Pony Package and it should hookup the same as the GT's . Is your cars an Pony Package V6? I will get out my papers on installing them and see if I can find a way to hook them up. I wanted to do mine on a seperate switch so I could turn all of them on at the same time. (when someone pisses me off) hehehehe

acstone7

Yeah yours should hook up perfect since you have a live wire connecting to your fogs already you just have to tap into that wire and your good to go

afixer

ok so it looks like the roush system uses the factory fog wireing for its power. but you can only run iether the roush lights or the factory or (aftermarket ones). the problem is that they asume you have a gt and thier switch uses a hot as a triger not a ground. and since he is using the SS harness that uses a ground we need to make a small tweek. normally you would hook up the roush trigger to the wire on the GT switch that is for the LED when the fogs are on (it is hot when on) but we dont have this so what i suggested is to splice onto the roush trigger wire and run it in the SS loom up to the SS relay. then splice it onto the output wire to the fogs from the SS harness. when the fogs are on the wire is now hot, viola the roush wire is now hot also. alowing the roush fogs to work and not he SS fogs. now if he wanted to have everything be able to work all he would have to do is unplug the roush splitters from the ss lights cut off the plugs splice to 2 wires that go to # 30 together and add an inline fuse and hook up to the same place he hooked the SS harness hot to. he can discared the other wire as it is no longer used. then he could use all 4 lights for landing! LOL

68XR7

I saw your good thread on wiring the fog lamps. Any chance that you would do another thread that would walk people through the process of building their own harness? That would be a good one! Thanks, Dave

afixer

no prob harness for what style

afixer

you mean like this one

amystery2u

If you can't tell by the title I finally have both sets of fogs lights working. I'm just going to recap everything for the 1% of people that no less about circuitry than I do. Yes I admit, at 33 yrs old I can barely work a volt ohm meter.



First of all, a BIG THANK YOU to TOM (Afixer) for talking on the phone for an hour across country to someone he barely knows and so graciously donated his time to help. So here it goes.



I have a 2006 4.0 Stang that didn't have fog lights at all. I bought a Street Scene grille and a Street Scene harness. I later upgraded to the GT front facia and later after an accident upgraded to the Roush. It came with it's own wiring harness.



Big point to know is the Ford Production Fogs do not car what side the positive wire comes in on. This leaves Street Scene to swap wires without being consistent.



So I have the Street Scene harness hooked up and I then hook up the Roush harness. The Roush set up expects you to have the GT switch so after several errors determined that the switch for the SS harness breaks the ground and the Roush switch breaks the hot. So on the 2nd terminal of the Roush switch I attached an automotive grade wire (18 AWG) and ran it through the flex loom back to the the relay terminal for the SS harness and tapped the same power lead.



The power is drawn from the Ford lights so you have leads that you take the SS harness light plug and hook it to the Roush plug then it has a branching plug that hooks up to the Ford lights that you just unplugged the SS harness from. Then of course you have two leads that go down to the Roush lights.



After making the final hookups I flipped the switches and the production lights came on and only one Roush light. This is where I should have looked at the SS harness, remember the production lights do not care which side the power comes in on. That is where I found the error. The light that would not come on was wired opposite of the light that would come on and this was all caused by the SS harness being inconsistent in its format. On the flip side that nice pretty Roush box with the relays has been fully disected I am very familiar with it.



Once again, all the problem solving credit goes to Tom. All I did was the physical part.