What’s up with our differentials?
01-31-2007, 11:03 PM
#21
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 2,006
RE: What’s up with our differentials?
The guy from the place!
ORIGINAL: fazm
who broke a truetrac?
ORIGINAL: beaustang
The only S197's that broke rearends had Tru Tracks or Auburns, not a single Track Lock as far as I know.
And if you buy crap from wrecked and worn out cars and trucks from a JUNK yard you shouldn't be surprised when they break.
The only S197's that broke rearends had Tru Tracks or Auburns, not a single Track Lock as far as I know.
And if you buy crap from wrecked and worn out cars and trucks from a JUNK yard you shouldn't be surprised when they break.
02-06-2007, 10:54 PM
#22
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location:
Posts: 3,594
RE: What’s up with our differentials?
ORIGINAL: scrming
I have hit my track lock with 450+ RWTQ on DRAG RADIALS! In fact I broke my MOTOR before I broke my 7.5! I had a bad habit of spraying at 2000 RPM! Finally caught up with me...
I have BEAT THE LIVING CRAP out of it with Drag Radials that refuse to spin on the street... I have said it before and I'll say it again... SHOW ME AN CURRENT S197 V6 THAT HAS BROKEN A NEW TRAC-LOCK... Don't show me old rangers and broncos... or 1983 GTs!!!
BTW... to answer the OP... an open differential will send the power to tire with the LEAST amount of traction! A LSD will send the power to BOTH tires...
I have hit my track lock with 450+ RWTQ on DRAG RADIALS! In fact I broke my MOTOR before I broke my 7.5! I had a bad habit of spraying at 2000 RPM! Finally caught up with me...
I have BEAT THE LIVING CRAP out of it with Drag Radials that refuse to spin on the street... I have said it before and I'll say it again... SHOW ME AN CURRENT S197 V6 THAT HAS BROKEN A NEW TRAC-LOCK... Don't show me old rangers and broncos... or 1983 GTs!!!
BTW... to answer the OP... an open differential will send the power to tire with the LEAST amount of traction! A LSD will send the power to BOTH tires...
i assume you have an auto. yes the T-lok will last abit longer on an auto because there is far less driveline shock in an auto even at 450ftlbs of torque than a car with 200ftlbs with a 3500rpm clutch drop on stick tires. Drag radials have an equivilant treadwear of about 160. many performance tires are damn close to that and with a clutch drop will bite and the ford T-lok will shed it teeth on it's spyders.
i have seen it many m,any times with the 7.5 T-lok and yes i have seen a couple of S-197 4.0's break T-loks on street tires. and bolt-on power. one guy was so pissed he wrote ford a nasty letter about it an told him where to stick their cars. i convinced him to get a Detroit truetrac and he hasn't had a proble since.
i have alot of experience with the 7.5 ford rear. it's a good unit with good parts. mustangman is correct the ford differentials and garbage. mine held OK with a procharger at alittle under 300ftlbs but i have an auto. i changed the t-lok out for a Detroit truetrac and i found more than a few chunks taken out of the spyders and the differential casting itself was warped which was what was causing an annoying imbalance in my drivetrain untill i changed to the detroit.
i offer my experience to those that may not have the exposure that i have had to the 7.5 rear. not saying any of you ar dumb noobs as many of you are very knowledgable but i have been around the 7.5 for along time and rebuilt many of them. and have been building engines and cars for almoist 20 years now. my first experience with a 7.5 was with a built XR4Ti that would run 11's but the 7.5 T-loks shedding teeth. this was 10 years ago and i though it was because the XR4Ti had a IRS rear. i used to be a proponent of the T-lok but boy was i wrong. i have seen probably close to 50 or more broken. they break the spyders. Dan Haga who was one of the Pioneers of V6 Mustang Modding destroyed his 7.5 T-lok at about 300rwhp and Torque about 8 years ago or more. back then it was the only option that most mustang guy's knew about. so they just swapped in an 8.8 which would solve the problem for the most part but the 8.8 T-loks are not the best either. i have broken a few myself with just 275rwhp on a stock 98 cobra and less power on a few 99+ GT's.
the 7.5 ford suffers from the same thing as the DANA 30 in V8 Jeeps and durango's the spyders are small and weak and break off.
Beaustang i think you are full of $hit. i challenge you to post any proof of a detroit Truetrac breaking on any V6 Mustang. i can see an auburn burning up the cone seats but not breaking the spyders.
the Ford 7.5 T-lok was designed as a "posi" option for old Bronco II's and Rangers and is the same exact design that it is today. from time totime ford contracted out to Auburn to make T-loks but these are not the same as the ford. they are a Clutch style Auburn and much stronger than the ford unit. not real common but you see them from time to time. Ford had problems in development of the 86 5.0 HO. the 7.5 rear would not handle the extra power which is about equal to a 99+ 3.9/3.9 or S197 4.0. what did ford do? they took the 8.8 F-150/GrandMarquis rear and put it under the Fox. the larger spyders of the 8.8 would handle the extra power. ford would have never done that as that was a time when cars had to be as light as possible for fuel economy and emissions and the heavier 8.8 wasn't desired at all but needed as ford didn't want to take the chance of having to pay out too many warranty claims orface a recall of thousands of cars
go and buy a ford T-lok. it's your money not mine but i have learned over the years that the 7.5 T-lok is unreliable in what power level it will hold. it's a cast iron unit with pressed metal spyders. not a good combo.
the Detroit truetrac with a TA girdle/bearing cap stud kit and Alloy or Moser hardened 28 spline axles will hold just about anything you can throw at it. the T-lok you are playing Russian Roulett
like said i have seen many break and quite a few on stock singleport power with a hard launch clutch drop. yeah they will hold alot more on an auto but why risk it.
the rign and pinion are quite strong and are OK to buy used from a place like www.mpsautosalvage.com. i have used 3.73's in my car and no issues. yes it's always best to buy new especially if you are planning on more power.
like i said if you want to buy a ford T-lok go right ahead but it makes no sense to skimp and save money on the rear only to drop $4000 on a procharger
02-06-2007, 10:57 PM
#23
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location:
Posts: 3,594
RE: What’s up with our differentials?
ORIGINAL: beaustang
The guy from the place!
The guy from the place!
ORIGINAL: fazm
who broke a truetrac?
ORIGINAL: beaustang
The only S197's that broke rearends had Tru Tracks or Auburns, not a single Track Lock as far as I know.
And if you buy crap from wrecked and worn out cars and trucks from a JUNK yard you shouldn't be surprised when they break.
The only S197's that broke rearends had Tru Tracks or Auburns, not a single Track Lock as far as I know.
And if you buy crap from wrecked and worn out cars and trucks from a JUNK yard you shouldn't be surprised when they break.
02-06-2007, 11:10 PM
#24
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: arizona
Posts: 3,893
RE: What’s up with our differentials?
ya, not very many people even running the truetrac.
i think you are thinking of the auburn, which 2 have broken so far.
i have the truetrac, and ive pulled a 1.89 60' on it n/a with mickey thompsons, its incredibley strong. the axles will break before it does. and the R&P will break before it does.
i think you are thinking of the auburn, which 2 have broken so far.
i have the truetrac, and ive pulled a 1.89 60' on it n/a with mickey thompsons, its incredibley strong. the axles will break before it does. and the R&P will break before it does.
02-06-2007, 11:57 PM
#25
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location:
Posts: 2,750
RE: What’s up with our differentials?
ORIGINAL: cobra232
alittle info for you. the ford T-lok that can be put into an S197 is the same exact unit that they used in 1983 rangers stock. the stock open differential is the same exact open differential from 1979 when the 7.5 was introduced.
i assume you have an auto. yes the T-lok will last abit longer on an auto because there is far less driveline shock in an auto even at 450ftlbs of torque than a car with 200ftlbs with a 3500rpm clutch drop on stick tires. Drag radials have an equivilant treadwear of about 160. many performance tires are damn close to that and with a clutch drop will bite and the ford T-lok will shed it teeth on it's spyders.
i have seen it many m,any times with the 7.5 T-lok and yes i have seen a couple of S-197 4.0's break T-loks on street tires. and bolt-on power. one guy was so pissed he wrote ford a nasty letter about it an told him where to stick their cars. i convinced him to get a Detroit truetrac and he hasn't had a proble since.
i have alot of experience with the 7.5 ford rear. it's a good unit with good parts. mustangman is correct the ford differentials and garbage. mine held OK with a procharger at alittle under 300ftlbs but i have an auto. i changed the t-lok out for a Detroit truetrac and i found more than a few chunks taken out of the spyders and the differential casting itself was warped which was what was causing an annoying imbalance in my drivetrain untill i changed to the detroit.
i offer my experience to those that may not have the exposure that i have had to the 7.5 rear. not saying any of you ar dumb noobs as many of you are very knowledgable but i have been around the 7.5 for along time and rebuilt many of them. and have been building engines and cars for almoist 20 years now. my first experience with a 7.5 was with a built XR4Ti that would run 11's but the 7.5 T-loks shedding teeth. this was 10 years ago and i though it was because the XR4Ti had a IRS rear. i used to be a proponent of the T-lok but boy was i wrong. i have seen probably close to 50 or more broken. they break the spyders. Dan Haga who was one of the Pioneers of V6 Mustang Modding destroyed his 7.5 T-lok at about 300rwhp and Torque about 8 years ago or more. back then it was the only option that most mustang guy's knew about. so they just swapped in an 8.8 which would solve the problem for the most part but the 8.8 T-loks are not the best either. i have broken a few myself with just 275rwhp on a stock 98 cobra and less power on a few 99+ GT's.
the 7.5 ford suffers from the same thing as the DANA 30 in V8 Jeeps and durango's the spyders are small and weak and break off.
Beaustang i think you are full of $hit. i challenge you to post any proof of a detroit Truetrac breaking on any V6 Mustang. i can see an auburn burning up the cone seats but not breaking the spyders.
the Ford 7.5 T-lok was designed as a "posi" option for old Bronco II's and Rangers and is the same exact design that it is today. from time totime ford contracted out to Auburn to make T-loks but these are not the same as the ford. they are a Clutch style Auburn and much stronger than the ford unit. not real common but you see them from time to time. Ford had problems in development of the 86 5.0 HO. the 7.5 rear would not handle the extra power which is about equal to a 99+ 3.9/3.9 or S197 4.0. what did ford do? they took the 8.8 F-150/GrandMarquis rear and put it under the Fox. the larger spyders of the 8.8 would handle the extra power. ford would have never done that as that was a time when cars had to be as light as possible for fuel economy and emissions and the heavier 8.8 wasn't desired at all but needed as ford didn't want to take the chance of having to pay out too many warranty claims orface a recall of thousands of cars
go and buy a ford T-lok. it's your money not mine but i have learned over the years that the 7.5 T-lok is unreliable in what power level it will hold. it's a cast iron unit with pressed metal spyders. not a good combo.
the Detroit truetrac with a TA girdle/bearing cap stud kit and Alloy or Moser hardened 28 spline axles will hold just about anything you can throw at it. the T-lok you are playing Russian Roulett
like said i have seen many break and quite a few on stock singleport power with a hard launch clutch drop. yeah they will hold alot more on an auto but why risk it.
the rign and pinion are quite strong and are OK to buy used from a place like www.mpsautosalvage.com. i have used 3.73's in my car and no issues. yes it's always best to buy new especially if you are planning on more power.
like i said if you want to buy a ford T-lok go right ahead but it makes no sense to skimp and save money on the rear only to drop $4000 on a procharger
ORIGINAL: scrming
I have hit my track lock with 450+ RWTQ on DRAG RADIALS! In fact I broke my MOTOR before I broke my 7.5! I had a bad habit of spraying at 2000 RPM! Finally caught up with me...
I have BEAT THE LIVING CRAP out of it with Drag Radials that refuse to spin on the street... I have said it before and I'll say it again... SHOW ME AN CURRENT S197 V6 THAT HAS BROKEN A NEW TRAC-LOCK... Don't show me old rangers and broncos... or 1983 GTs!!!
BTW... to answer the OP... an open differential will send the power to tire with the LEAST amount of traction! A LSD will send the power to BOTH tires...
I have hit my track lock with 450+ RWTQ on DRAG RADIALS! In fact I broke my MOTOR before I broke my 7.5! I had a bad habit of spraying at 2000 RPM! Finally caught up with me...
I have BEAT THE LIVING CRAP out of it with Drag Radials that refuse to spin on the street... I have said it before and I'll say it again... SHOW ME AN CURRENT S197 V6 THAT HAS BROKEN A NEW TRAC-LOCK... Don't show me old rangers and broncos... or 1983 GTs!!!
BTW... to answer the OP... an open differential will send the power to tire with the LEAST amount of traction! A LSD will send the power to BOTH tires...
i assume you have an auto. yes the T-lok will last abit longer on an auto because there is far less driveline shock in an auto even at 450ftlbs of torque than a car with 200ftlbs with a 3500rpm clutch drop on stick tires. Drag radials have an equivilant treadwear of about 160. many performance tires are damn close to that and with a clutch drop will bite and the ford T-lok will shed it teeth on it's spyders.
i have seen it many m,any times with the 7.5 T-lok and yes i have seen a couple of S-197 4.0's break T-loks on street tires. and bolt-on power. one guy was so pissed he wrote ford a nasty letter about it an told him where to stick their cars. i convinced him to get a Detroit truetrac and he hasn't had a proble since.
i have alot of experience with the 7.5 ford rear. it's a good unit with good parts. mustangman is correct the ford differentials and garbage. mine held OK with a procharger at alittle under 300ftlbs but i have an auto. i changed the t-lok out for a Detroit truetrac and i found more than a few chunks taken out of the spyders and the differential casting itself was warped which was what was causing an annoying imbalance in my drivetrain untill i changed to the detroit.
i offer my experience to those that may not have the exposure that i have had to the 7.5 rear. not saying any of you ar dumb noobs as many of you are very knowledgable but i have been around the 7.5 for along time and rebuilt many of them. and have been building engines and cars for almoist 20 years now. my first experience with a 7.5 was with a built XR4Ti that would run 11's but the 7.5 T-loks shedding teeth. this was 10 years ago and i though it was because the XR4Ti had a IRS rear. i used to be a proponent of the T-lok but boy was i wrong. i have seen probably close to 50 or more broken. they break the spyders. Dan Haga who was one of the Pioneers of V6 Mustang Modding destroyed his 7.5 T-lok at about 300rwhp and Torque about 8 years ago or more. back then it was the only option that most mustang guy's knew about. so they just swapped in an 8.8 which would solve the problem for the most part but the 8.8 T-loks are not the best either. i have broken a few myself with just 275rwhp on a stock 98 cobra and less power on a few 99+ GT's.
the 7.5 ford suffers from the same thing as the DANA 30 in V8 Jeeps and durango's the spyders are small and weak and break off.
Beaustang i think you are full of $hit. i challenge you to post any proof of a detroit Truetrac breaking on any V6 Mustang. i can see an auburn burning up the cone seats but not breaking the spyders.
the Ford 7.5 T-lok was designed as a "posi" option for old Bronco II's and Rangers and is the same exact design that it is today. from time totime ford contracted out to Auburn to make T-loks but these are not the same as the ford. they are a Clutch style Auburn and much stronger than the ford unit. not real common but you see them from time to time. Ford had problems in development of the 86 5.0 HO. the 7.5 rear would not handle the extra power which is about equal to a 99+ 3.9/3.9 or S197 4.0. what did ford do? they took the 8.8 F-150/GrandMarquis rear and put it under the Fox. the larger spyders of the 8.8 would handle the extra power. ford would have never done that as that was a time when cars had to be as light as possible for fuel economy and emissions and the heavier 8.8 wasn't desired at all but needed as ford didn't want to take the chance of having to pay out too many warranty claims orface a recall of thousands of cars
go and buy a ford T-lok. it's your money not mine but i have learned over the years that the 7.5 T-lok is unreliable in what power level it will hold. it's a cast iron unit with pressed metal spyders. not a good combo.
the Detroit truetrac with a TA girdle/bearing cap stud kit and Alloy or Moser hardened 28 spline axles will hold just about anything you can throw at it. the T-lok you are playing Russian Roulett
like said i have seen many break and quite a few on stock singleport power with a hard launch clutch drop. yeah they will hold alot more on an auto but why risk it.
the rign and pinion are quite strong and are OK to buy used from a place like www.mpsautosalvage.com. i have used 3.73's in my car and no issues. yes it's always best to buy new especially if you are planning on more power.
like i said if you want to buy a ford T-lok go right ahead but it makes no sense to skimp and save money on the rear only to drop $4000 on a procharger
02-07-2007, 12:56 AM
#26
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location:
Posts: 3,594
RE: What’s up with our differentials?
ORIGINAL: scrming
I don't car about old broncos and rangers... If the 7.5 trac-lock is such trash, then why hasn't anyone here broke one??? GIVE ME AN EXAMPLE OF AN S197 V6 WITH A BROKEN TRAC-LOCK!! As many guys here that have them it should be easy to find one!
ORIGINAL: cobra232
alittle info for you. the ford T-lok that can be put into an S197 is the same exact unit that they used in 1983 rangers stock. the stock open differential is the same exact open differential from 1979 when the 7.5 was introduced.
i assume you have an auto. yes the T-lok will last abit longer on an auto because there is far less driveline shock in an auto even at 450ftlbs of torque than a car with 200ftlbs with a 3500rpm clutch drop on stick tires. Drag radials have an equivilant treadwear of about 160. many performance tires are damn close to that and with a clutch drop will bite and the ford T-lok will shed it teeth on it's spyders.
i have seen it many m,any times with the 7.5 T-lok and yes i have seen a couple of S-197 4.0's break T-loks on street tires. and bolt-on power. one guy was so pissed he wrote ford a nasty letter about it an told him where to stick their cars. i convinced him to get a Detroit truetrac and he hasn't had a proble since.
i have alot of experience with the 7.5 ford rear. it's a good unit with good parts. mustangman is correct the ford differentials and garbage. mine held OK with a procharger at alittle under 300ftlbs but i have an auto. i changed the t-lok out for a Detroit truetrac and i found more than a few chunks taken out of the spyders and the differential casting itself was warped which was what was causing an annoying imbalance in my drivetrain untill i changed to the detroit.
i offer my experience to those that may not have the exposure that i have had to the 7.5 rear. not saying any of you ar dumb noobs as many of you are very knowledgable but i have been around the 7.5 for along time and rebuilt many of them. and have been building engines and cars for almoist 20 years now. my first experience with a 7.5 was with a built XR4Ti that would run 11's but the 7.5 T-loks shedding teeth. this was 10 years ago and i though it was because the XR4Ti had a IRS rear. i used to be a proponent of the T-lok but boy was i wrong. i have seen probably close to 50 or more broken. they break the spyders. Dan Haga who was one of the Pioneers of V6 Mustang Modding destroyed his 7.5 T-lok at about 300rwhp and Torque about 8 years ago or more. back then it was the only option that most mustang guy's knew about. so they just swapped in an 8.8 which would solve the problem for the most part but the 8.8 T-loks are not the best either. i have broken a few myself with just 275rwhp on a stock 98 cobra and less power on a few 99+ GT's.
the 7.5 ford suffers from the same thing as the DANA 30 in V8 Jeeps and durango's the spyders are small and weak and break off.
Beaustang i think you are full of $hit. i challenge you to post any proof of a detroit Truetrac breaking on any V6 Mustang. i can see an auburn burning up the cone seats but not breaking the spyders.
the Ford 7.5 T-lok was designed as a "posi" option for old Bronco II's and Rangers and is the same exact design that it is today. from time totime ford contracted out to Auburn to make T-loks but these are not the same as the ford. they are a Clutch style Auburn and much stronger than the ford unit. not real common but you see them from time to time. Ford had problems in development of the 86 5.0 HO. the 7.5 rear would not handle the extra power which is about equal to a 99+ 3.9/3.9 or S197 4.0. what did ford do? they took the 8.8 F-150/GrandMarquis rear and put it under the Fox. the larger spyders of the 8.8 would handle the extra power. ford would have never done that as that was a time when cars had to be as light as possible for fuel economy and emissions and the heavier 8.8 wasn't desired at all but needed as ford didn't want to take the chance of having to pay out too many warranty claims orface a recall of thousands of cars
go and buy a ford T-lok. it's your money not mine but i have learned over the years that the 7.5 T-lok is unreliable in what power level it will hold. it's a cast iron unit with pressed metal spyders. not a good combo.
the Detroit truetrac with a TA girdle/bearing cap stud kit and Alloy or Moser hardened 28 spline axles will hold just about anything you can throw at it. the T-lok you are playing Russian Roulett
like said i have seen many break and quite a few on stock singleport power with a hard launch clutch drop. yeah they will hold alot more on an auto but why risk it.
the rign and pinion are quite strong and are OK to buy used from a place like www.mpsautosalvage.com. i have used 3.73's in my car and no issues. yes it's always best to buy new especially if you are planning on more power.
like i said if you want to buy a ford T-lok go right ahead but it makes no sense to skimp and save money on the rear only to drop $4000 on a procharger
ORIGINAL: scrming
I have hit my track lock with 450+ RWTQ on DRAG RADIALS! In fact I broke my MOTOR before I broke my 7.5! I had a bad habit of spraying at 2000 RPM! Finally caught up with me...
I have BEAT THE LIVING CRAP out of it with Drag Radials that refuse to spin on the street... I have said it before and I'll say it again... SHOW ME AN CURRENT S197 V6 THAT HAS BROKEN A NEW TRAC-LOCK... Don't show me old rangers and broncos... or 1983 GTs!!!
BTW... to answer the OP... an open differential will send the power to tire with the LEAST amount of traction! A LSD will send the power to BOTH tires...
I have hit my track lock with 450+ RWTQ on DRAG RADIALS! In fact I broke my MOTOR before I broke my 7.5! I had a bad habit of spraying at 2000 RPM! Finally caught up with me...
I have BEAT THE LIVING CRAP out of it with Drag Radials that refuse to spin on the street... I have said it before and I'll say it again... SHOW ME AN CURRENT S197 V6 THAT HAS BROKEN A NEW TRAC-LOCK... Don't show me old rangers and broncos... or 1983 GTs!!!
BTW... to answer the OP... an open differential will send the power to tire with the LEAST amount of traction! A LSD will send the power to BOTH tires...
i assume you have an auto. yes the T-lok will last abit longer on an auto because there is far less driveline shock in an auto even at 450ftlbs of torque than a car with 200ftlbs with a 3500rpm clutch drop on stick tires. Drag radials have an equivilant treadwear of about 160. many performance tires are damn close to that and with a clutch drop will bite and the ford T-lok will shed it teeth on it's spyders.
i have seen it many m,any times with the 7.5 T-lok and yes i have seen a couple of S-197 4.0's break T-loks on street tires. and bolt-on power. one guy was so pissed he wrote ford a nasty letter about it an told him where to stick their cars. i convinced him to get a Detroit truetrac and he hasn't had a proble since.
i have alot of experience with the 7.5 ford rear. it's a good unit with good parts. mustangman is correct the ford differentials and garbage. mine held OK with a procharger at alittle under 300ftlbs but i have an auto. i changed the t-lok out for a Detroit truetrac and i found more than a few chunks taken out of the spyders and the differential casting itself was warped which was what was causing an annoying imbalance in my drivetrain untill i changed to the detroit.
i offer my experience to those that may not have the exposure that i have had to the 7.5 rear. not saying any of you ar dumb noobs as many of you are very knowledgable but i have been around the 7.5 for along time and rebuilt many of them. and have been building engines and cars for almoist 20 years now. my first experience with a 7.5 was with a built XR4Ti that would run 11's but the 7.5 T-loks shedding teeth. this was 10 years ago and i though it was because the XR4Ti had a IRS rear. i used to be a proponent of the T-lok but boy was i wrong. i have seen probably close to 50 or more broken. they break the spyders. Dan Haga who was one of the Pioneers of V6 Mustang Modding destroyed his 7.5 T-lok at about 300rwhp and Torque about 8 years ago or more. back then it was the only option that most mustang guy's knew about. so they just swapped in an 8.8 which would solve the problem for the most part but the 8.8 T-loks are not the best either. i have broken a few myself with just 275rwhp on a stock 98 cobra and less power on a few 99+ GT's.
the 7.5 ford suffers from the same thing as the DANA 30 in V8 Jeeps and durango's the spyders are small and weak and break off.
Beaustang i think you are full of $hit. i challenge you to post any proof of a detroit Truetrac breaking on any V6 Mustang. i can see an auburn burning up the cone seats but not breaking the spyders.
the Ford 7.5 T-lok was designed as a "posi" option for old Bronco II's and Rangers and is the same exact design that it is today. from time totime ford contracted out to Auburn to make T-loks but these are not the same as the ford. they are a Clutch style Auburn and much stronger than the ford unit. not real common but you see them from time to time. Ford had problems in development of the 86 5.0 HO. the 7.5 rear would not handle the extra power which is about equal to a 99+ 3.9/3.9 or S197 4.0. what did ford do? they took the 8.8 F-150/GrandMarquis rear and put it under the Fox. the larger spyders of the 8.8 would handle the extra power. ford would have never done that as that was a time when cars had to be as light as possible for fuel economy and emissions and the heavier 8.8 wasn't desired at all but needed as ford didn't want to take the chance of having to pay out too many warranty claims orface a recall of thousands of cars
go and buy a ford T-lok. it's your money not mine but i have learned over the years that the 7.5 T-lok is unreliable in what power level it will hold. it's a cast iron unit with pressed metal spyders. not a good combo.
the Detroit truetrac with a TA girdle/bearing cap stud kit and Alloy or Moser hardened 28 spline axles will hold just about anything you can throw at it. the T-lok you are playing Russian Roulett
like said i have seen many break and quite a few on stock singleport power with a hard launch clutch drop. yeah they will hold alot more on an auto but why risk it.
the rign and pinion are quite strong and are OK to buy used from a place like www.mpsautosalvage.com. i have used 3.73's in my car and no issues. yes it's always best to buy new especially if you are planning on more power.
like i said if you want to buy a ford T-lok go right ahead but it makes no sense to skimp and save money on the rear only to drop $4000 on a procharger
powerhouse destroyed their 7.5 T-lok. so don't sit here and tell me the ford T-lok is a great part. it isn't and if you kew anything about engineering you could look at it compared to the detroit and realize that it is not nearly as strong.
like i said it's your money. my advise it to try to advise people not to waste their money.
maybe it's the weak bottm end torque of the 4.0 that can't break the ford t-lok. just kidding. the 4.0 can make some real power but has along way to goto catch the 3.8 essex block
and yes i remember you are an auto but fail to disclose that fact in this thread.
my advise has always been if you an auto that doesn't plan on more than a 75 shot then go with a T-lok. if your a 5spd then pass on the T-lok all together.
in the end it's your money. not mine so i really don't care if you waste it or not. just trying to be helpfull but i guess others don't know $hit because our cars have a 3.8 instead of a 4.0 and everything is different because of that fact
02-07-2007, 07:25 AM
#28
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location:
Posts: 2,750
RE: What’s up with our differentials?
ORIGINAL: cobra232
again the T-lok made today is no different in manufacture or materials from one made 5 or 10 or 20 or almost 25 years ago. they are all exactly the same. Lady luck is on your side as well as a few others. maybe you and others should take the advise of those V6er's that have gone before you. just because the body style is different and you have a Cologne based SOHC 60 degree 4.0 V6 doesn't mean that the ford T-lok mystically has changed forthe S197's. it hasn't. again you have ben lucky with it mostly because you have an auto. to reccomend the ford T-lok is unwise advise to anyone running the 7.5. it is a cast iron boat anchor.
powerhouse destroyed their 7.5 T-lok. so don't sit here and tell me the ford T-lok is a great part. it isn't and if you kew anything about engineering you could look at it compared to the detroit and realize that it is not nearly as strong.
like i said it's your money. my advise it to try to advise people not to waste their money.
maybe it's the weak bottm end torque of the 4.0 that can't break the ford t-lok. just kidding. the 4.0 can make some real power but has along way to goto catch the 3.8 essex block
and yes i remember you are an auto but fail to disclose that fact in this thread.
my advise has always been if you an auto that doesn't plan on more than a 75 shot then go with a T-lok. if your a 5spd then pass on the T-lok all together.
in the end it's your money. not mine so i really don't care if you waste it or not. just trying to be helpfull but i guess others don't know $hit because our cars have a 3.8 instead of a 4.0 and everything is different because of that fact
again the T-lok made today is no different in manufacture or materials from one made 5 or 10 or 20 or almost 25 years ago. they are all exactly the same. Lady luck is on your side as well as a few others. maybe you and others should take the advise of those V6er's that have gone before you. just because the body style is different and you have a Cologne based SOHC 60 degree 4.0 V6 doesn't mean that the ford T-lok mystically has changed forthe S197's. it hasn't. again you have ben lucky with it mostly because you have an auto. to reccomend the ford T-lok is unwise advise to anyone running the 7.5. it is a cast iron boat anchor.
powerhouse destroyed their 7.5 T-lok. so don't sit here and tell me the ford T-lok is a great part. it isn't and if you kew anything about engineering you could look at it compared to the detroit and realize that it is not nearly as strong.
like i said it's your money. my advise it to try to advise people not to waste their money.
maybe it's the weak bottm end torque of the 4.0 that can't break the ford t-lok. just kidding. the 4.0 can make some real power but has along way to goto catch the 3.8 essex block
and yes i remember you are an auto but fail to disclose that fact in this thread.
my advise has always been if you an auto that doesn't plan on more than a 75 shot then go with a T-lok. if your a 5spd then pass on the T-lok all together.
in the end it's your money. not mine so i really don't care if you waste it or not. just trying to be helpfull but i guess others don't know $hit because our cars have a 3.8 instead of a 4.0 and everything is different because of that fact
Not enough torque? only 75 shot? LOL! I made mutliple passes with the 125HP spraying at 2000 RPM, which is basically before the car really starts rolling... making close to 500 ft/lbs... I actually broke a piston before anything else!! There are a LOT more S197 V6's with track-locks than there are Auburns... yet there have been 2 Auburns that have broken... and they are supposed to be stronger too! Sure the TrueTrac is stronger than a Trac-lok... it cost a lot more... and 99.9% of the people in here don't need that kind of strenght.. and most are on a limited budget... I think it's bad advise to try and scare people into buying something they don't need...
02-07-2007, 05:31 PM
#29
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: N/A
Posts: 160
RE: What’s up with our differentials?
I just got a t-lok and 3.73's what are you running scrming? Ive been waiting for my stock diff to break so I could get one...and it broke. Ill add my 2 cents in on this conversation...the 7.5 may be smaller than the 8.8 but thats less rotating mass. Meaning more power gets to the wheels. I also havent seen anyone with a broken t-lok...nor with any problems with aftermarket ring and pinion gears. How many of you have less than 30k on your stangs with stock blown diffs or making noise? I just blew mine up ive had my car for a year now and bought it new.
02-07-2007, 05:44 PM
#30
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location:
Posts: 3,594
RE: What’s up with our differentials?
ORIGINAL: enorym
I just got a t-lok and 3.73's what are you running scrming? Ive been waiting for my stock diff to break so I could get one...and it broke. Ill add my 2 cents in on this conversation...the 7.5 may be smaller than the 8.8 but thats less rotating mass. Meaning more power gets to the wheels. I also havent seen anyone with a broken t-lok...nor with any problems with aftermarket ring and pinion gears. How many of you have less than 30k on your stangs with stock blown diffs or making noise? I just blew mine up ive had my car for a year now and bought it new.
I just got a t-lok and 3.73's what are you running scrming? Ive been waiting for my stock diff to break so I could get one...and it broke. Ill add my 2 cents in on this conversation...the 7.5 may be smaller than the 8.8 but thats less rotating mass. Meaning more power gets to the wheels. I also havent seen anyone with a broken t-lok...nor with any problems with aftermarket ring and pinion gears. How many of you have less than 30k on your stangs with stock blown diffs or making noise? I just blew mine up ive had my car for a year now and bought it new.
my advise if from years of experience not formulated opinion. may V6's have had problems in the past with the Ford T-lok which hasn't changed in any aspect since it was introduced in the early 80's. all T-lok parts are interchangable and rebuild kits are not year specific.
like i said i have seen alot blown on 3.8 cars and they will break on 4.0 cars. i would rather do the rear end once and forget about it then to have to spend money on another differential and install and possibly new R&P or more.
also in my experience the small clutchpacks wear out quickly. i went through 2 sets in about 45,000 miles and the clutch kits are $90/set. you can reverse stack them and add 2 more i believe and get better grip but i would rather have the T-lok slip instead of grip as the small spyders just don't handle alot of shock.
it doesn't matter than the S197 is different than the SN95's or Fox's the 7.5 rear is the same internally from day one to current production