$3500 to spend and 400HP to gain
10-20-2007, 06:50 PM
#11
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 5
RE: $3500 to spend and 400HP to gain
First of all I would like to thank all of u guys for replaying which help a lot o.. I am not going to buy the old stang because I love the look of the new one. I said $3500 b/c that’s what I have right now but if it is going to cost me a 5000 or + I would wait until I can save this number. I got the x-pipe already in my car and this is the only mod I have right now. What is most important for me is to get more hp+ than GT. then It would make a lot of since not buying a GT not to mention insurance and gas. I will use my car for the daily drive and planning to keep it for five years. So what I am looking for also something handy would not break my car down and at the same time would not make me disappointment when I need the power. I am not looking for noisy engine also and I would prefer a quitter sound of the engine b/c I am satisfied with my exhaust sound which is quit loudly but I might sacrifice the sound for the power.
10-20-2007, 07:09 PM
#12
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location:
Posts: 923
RE: $3500 to spend and 400HP to gain
on top of the other stuff posted, you will also need a set of gauges, and a pod. The only ones you would really need are a wideband air/fuel, and a vacuum/boost gauge.
You have to look at the trade off value of doing the mods vs. getting a new GT. You said you dont want to pay high insurance, and more gas (theres no big mpg difference, and with the mods you will have to run premium gas anyway) you are going to spend a good 10grand or moreon suspension,transmission,internal, F/I, safety, and other performance mods, plus installation, and the time to buy everything and wait for the install, which could be two years from now.
If you go with the GT, you can put the 4g down payment, plus the V6, get a 250rwhp car, then add a tune, CAI, and exhaust for about $600 and you will be putting out around 280rwhp. If you go this way, you will have more power faster, than if you were to install parts one at a time on the V6, and at 250rwhp stock, you can save 5k for a whipple supercharger and put out 500rwhp!!
if you are looking for anything over 350hp then dont waste your time with a V6, save up more, and wait a bit longer to get a GT.
You have to look at the trade off value of doing the mods vs. getting a new GT. You said you dont want to pay high insurance, and more gas (theres no big mpg difference, and with the mods you will have to run premium gas anyway) you are going to spend a good 10grand or moreon suspension,transmission,internal, F/I, safety, and other performance mods, plus installation, and the time to buy everything and wait for the install, which could be two years from now.
If you go with the GT, you can put the 4g down payment, plus the V6, get a 250rwhp car, then add a tune, CAI, and exhaust for about $600 and you will be putting out around 280rwhp. If you go this way, you will have more power faster, than if you were to install parts one at a time on the V6, and at 250rwhp stock, you can save 5k for a whipple supercharger and put out 500rwhp!!
if you are looking for anything over 350hp then dont waste your time with a V6, save up more, and wait a bit longer to get a GT.
10-20-2007, 07:16 PM
#13
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location:
Posts: 2,365
RE: $3500 to spend and 400HP to gain
ORIGINAL: Naif
First of all I would like to thank all of u guys for replaying which help a lot o.. I am not going to buy the old stang because I love the look of the new one. I said $3500 b/c that’s what I have right now but if it is going to cost me a 5000 or + I would wait until I can save this number. I got the x-pipe already in my car and this is the only mod I have right now. What is most important for me is to get more hp+ than GT. then It would make a lot of since not buying a GT not to mention insurance and gas. I will use my car for the daily drive and planning to keep it for five years. So what I am looking for also something handy would not break my car down and at the same time would not make me disappointment when I need the power. I am not looking for noisy engine also and I would prefer a quitter sound of the engine b/c I am satisfied with my exhaust sound which is quit loudly but I might sacrifice the sound for the power.
First of all I would like to thank all of u guys for replaying which help a lot o.. I am not going to buy the old stang because I love the look of the new one. I said $3500 b/c that’s what I have right now but if it is going to cost me a 5000 or + I would wait until I can save this number. I got the x-pipe already in my car and this is the only mod I have right now. What is most important for me is to get more hp+ than GT. then It would make a lot of since not buying a GT not to mention insurance and gas. I will use my car for the daily drive and planning to keep it for five years. So what I am looking for also something handy would not break my car down and at the same time would not make me disappointment when I need the power. I am not looking for noisy engine also and I would prefer a quitter sound of the engine b/c I am satisfied with my exhaust sound which is quit loudly but I might sacrifice the sound for the power.
10-20-2007, 09:14 PM
#14
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location:
Posts: 2,365
RE: $3500 to spend and 400HP to gain
I believe you want a noticable amount of more hp than a GT, so I'd say your looking for 350hp(crank). For this, best bet is a hi-po x-charger w/2.8 pulley. With all that and a high-flow muffler, youshould be at 345-360hp crank and eat GT's all day long. The hi-po x-charger kit is $4,200,$200 2.8pulley,rear lower control arms $200-$250 installed, t-lok $400 installed, dyno tune $200, and installation for yor supercharger will probably run $600-$700. So that's a budget of $5.2k.You can look up on the x-charger at explorerexpress.com and there's info on it at the top of the last page under the title info on x-chargers. That site will tell you everything about it and the thread will tell you all people's experiences with it. It's a great reliable and street fun supercharger. Sounds cool too if you want to youtube some of the videos. This is probably the best waytoogo is you want more power than a GT,it's your daily driver, and you wantrespectable power.Good Luck!
10-21-2007, 02:06 AM
#15
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 167
RE: $3500 to spend and 400HP to gain
I hear what you are saying about the GT and there are always going to be a small minority of V6 owners who should have bought the GT from the start if they had their goalsmore defined from the start (I am not one of them), but unfortunately trading in for a GT will likely cost more than the orignial 5K sticker difference of the new vehicle. Unless you can sell your stang yourself (who knows how long that could take to get a decent price), You would likely have to trade in to a dealer at a significantly lower price (14-16K) depending on your year and miles. Looking through the classifieds you would be hard pressed to find an 05-07 GT for under 22K and that vehicle would already have a decent amount of miles on the odometer. So you are likely looking at 6-8K realistically, but I agree that if you want to go higher than 350 rwhp on our V6 then there are some mandatory upgrades you should look into.....especially on a daily driver. The middle ground would be to go superchargerand have an awesome car with +/- 300 rwhp that willalso be reliable for around 4k depending on brand and install. These are all tough decisions. Good luck , as I am also working towards building my carfor aturbo!!
10-21-2007, 09:04 AM
#16
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location:
Posts: 2,365
RE: $3500 to spend and 400HP to gain
ORIGINAL: blackstang14
I hear what you are saying about the GT and there are always going to be a small minority of V6 owners who should have bought the GT from the start if they had their goalsmore defined from the start (I am not one of them), but unfortunately trading in for a GT will likely cost more than the orignial 5K sticker difference of the new vehicle. Unless you can sell your stang yourself (who knows how long that could take to get a decent price), You would likely have to trade in to a dealer at a significantly lower price (14-16K) depending on your year and miles. Looking through the classifieds you would be hard pressed to find an 05-07 GT for under 22K and that vehicle would already have a decent amount of miles on the odometer. So you are likely looking at 6-8K realistically, but I agree that if you want to go higher than 350 rwhp on our V6 then there are some mandatory upgrades you should look into.....especially on a daily driver. The middle ground would be to go superchargerand have an awesome car with +/- 300 rwhp that willalso be reliable for around 4k depending on brand and install. These are all tough decisions. Good luck , as I am also working towards building my carfor aturbo!!
I hear what you are saying about the GT and there are always going to be a small minority of V6 owners who should have bought the GT from the start if they had their goalsmore defined from the start (I am not one of them), but unfortunately trading in for a GT will likely cost more than the orignial 5K sticker difference of the new vehicle. Unless you can sell your stang yourself (who knows how long that could take to get a decent price), You would likely have to trade in to a dealer at a significantly lower price (14-16K) depending on your year and miles. Looking through the classifieds you would be hard pressed to find an 05-07 GT for under 22K and that vehicle would already have a decent amount of miles on the odometer. So you are likely looking at 6-8K realistically, but I agree that if you want to go higher than 350 rwhp on our V6 then there are some mandatory upgrades you should look into.....especially on a daily driver. The middle ground would be to go superchargerand have an awesome car with +/- 300 rwhp that willalso be reliable for around 4k depending on brand and install. These are all tough decisions. Good luck , as I am also working towards building my carfor aturbo!!
10-21-2007, 11:00 AM
#17
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location:
Posts: 640
RE: $3500 to spend and 400HP to gain
Exactly! 3 Moderators to be exact! Yeah, I've been trying to get them to change that. Last mod I pissed offis the reasonI have that, long story short Iposted a comment to help someone going turbowith abunch of possibly needing andmaybe needings because he didn't specify how much hp he wanted to run. Because of that a moderator called me a post ***** which I really didn't do becauseI was helping the guy and then I called him a post ***** for posting that and not writing anything to help out the thread and posted this after that: [sm=owned.gif].DON'T DO THAT TO MODS! I got my posting actions disabled for only a day luckily and this neat new tag under my name. Hopefullyit will be changed soon. I gotta stop messingwith mods or I won't be around here much longer.
10-21-2007, 11:27 AM
#18
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 5,172
RE: $3500 to spend and 400HP to gain
For 400rwhp, it depends on the power adder, but it can be done on the stock block, but if you plan to beat and beat and beat on it, you should probably beef up the bottom end. Here are some real life combinations I have seen in person and at the track that broke the 400rwhp on stock internals....
Centri w/SSM Heads and Cams
[ul][*]Owner: Flapjack[*]SSM stage 3 heads and cams (includes upgraded valve springs)[*]Procharger DS1C[*]14lbs of boost[*]Catback exhaust[*]Bragging rights: 440rwhp / 380 rwtq @ 14psi
[/ul]Centri w/Powerhouse Heads and Cams
[ul][*]Owner: Ranebowcyxx[*]PH Heads and Cams (includes new valve springs)[*]Procharger PS1C[*]10lbs of boost[*]Bragging rights: 12.03@115[/ul]Powerhouse Turbo w/shimmed valve springs
[ul][*]Owner: Buckman[*]Shimmed valve springs (needed for 11psi or higher or risk floating a valve)[*]Powerhouse Turbo[*]13psi and 15psi w/75 shot[*]Bragging rights: 11.9 on 13psi, 11.02@126 on 15psi w/75 shot nitrous[/ul]On the stock block, with shimmed vavle springs you can run mid to high 11's. High 11's reliably. Is your goal dyno driven or track driven? Depending on your specific situation, it may be more cost effective to wait and go GT and just put a blower on it. The GT rods and pistons are good to about 450, after that most GT owners I talked to said you are on borrowed time and room for error is minimal at best. If you are racing a lot on boost, for any car, forged internals are always a good bet. But a built motor does not mean its 100%. I cheap insurance policy at the track is to run race gas when you dial up the boost.
"Master of bad tech advice" What a f'ing hoot. Damn you must have pissed someone off good. Heres a tip, talk to things you have direct experience with.
Centri w/SSM Heads and Cams
[ul][*]Owner: Flapjack[*]SSM stage 3 heads and cams (includes upgraded valve springs)[*]Procharger DS1C[*]14lbs of boost[*]Catback exhaust[*]Bragging rights: 440rwhp / 380 rwtq @ 14psi
[/ul]Centri w/Powerhouse Heads and Cams
[ul][*]Owner: Ranebowcyxx[*]PH Heads and Cams (includes new valve springs)[*]Procharger PS1C[*]10lbs of boost[*]Bragging rights: 12.03@115[/ul]Powerhouse Turbo w/shimmed valve springs
[ul][*]Owner: Buckman[*]Shimmed valve springs (needed for 11psi or higher or risk floating a valve)[*]Powerhouse Turbo[*]13psi and 15psi w/75 shot[*]Bragging rights: 11.9 on 13psi, 11.02@126 on 15psi w/75 shot nitrous[/ul]On the stock block, with shimmed vavle springs you can run mid to high 11's. High 11's reliably. Is your goal dyno driven or track driven? Depending on your specific situation, it may be more cost effective to wait and go GT and just put a blower on it. The GT rods and pistons are good to about 450, after that most GT owners I talked to said you are on borrowed time and room for error is minimal at best. If you are racing a lot on boost, for any car, forged internals are always a good bet. But a built motor does not mean its 100%. I cheap insurance policy at the track is to run race gas when you dial up the boost.
"Master of bad tech advice" What a f'ing hoot. Damn you must have pissed someone off good. Heres a tip, talk to things you have direct experience with.
10-21-2007, 12:04 PM
#19
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location:
Posts: 2,365
RE: $3500 to spend and 400HP to gain
ORIGINAL: rygenstormlocke
For 400rwhp, it depends on the power adder, but it can be done on the stock block, but if you plan to beat and beat and beat on it, you should probably beef up the bottom end. Here are some real life combinations I have seen in person and at the track that broke the 400rwhp on stock internals....
Centri w/SSM Heads and Cams
[ul][*]Owner: Flapjack[*]SSM stage 3 heads and cams (includes upgraded valve springs)[*]Procharger DS1C[*]14lbs of boost[*]Catback exhaust[*]Bragging rights: 440rwhp / 380 rwtq @ 14psi [/ul]Centri w/Powerhouse Heads and Cams
[ul][*]Owner: Ranebowcyxx[*]PH Heads and Cams (includes new valve springs)[*]Procharger PS1C[*]10lbs of boost[*]Bragging rights: 12.03@115[/ul]Powerhouse Turbo w/shimmed valve springs
[ul][*]Owner: Buckman[*]Shimmed valve springs (needed for 11psi or higher or risk floating a valve)[*]Powerhouse Turbo[*]13psi and 15psi w/75 shot[*]Bragging rights: 11.9 on 13psi, 11.02@126 on 15psi w/75 shot nitrous[/ul]
On the stock block, with shimmed vavle springs you can run mid to high 11's. High 11's reliably. Is your goal dyno driven or track driven? Depending on your specific situation, it may be more cost effective to wait and go GT and just put a blower on it. The GT rods and pistons are good to about 450, after that most GT owners I talked to said you are on borrowed time and room for error is minimal at best. If you are racing a lot on boost, for any car, forged internals are always a good bet. But a built motor does not mean its 100%. I cheap insurance policy at the track is to run race gas when you dial up the boost.
"Master of bad tech advice" What a f'ing hoot. Damn you must have pissed someone off good. Heres a tip, talk to things you have direct experience with.
For 400rwhp, it depends on the power adder, but it can be done on the stock block, but if you plan to beat and beat and beat on it, you should probably beef up the bottom end. Here are some real life combinations I have seen in person and at the track that broke the 400rwhp on stock internals....
Centri w/SSM Heads and Cams
[ul][*]Owner: Flapjack[*]SSM stage 3 heads and cams (includes upgraded valve springs)[*]Procharger DS1C[*]14lbs of boost[*]Catback exhaust[*]Bragging rights: 440rwhp / 380 rwtq @ 14psi [/ul]Centri w/Powerhouse Heads and Cams
[ul][*]Owner: Ranebowcyxx[*]PH Heads and Cams (includes new valve springs)[*]Procharger PS1C[*]10lbs of boost[*]Bragging rights: 12.03@115[/ul]Powerhouse Turbo w/shimmed valve springs
[ul][*]Owner: Buckman[*]Shimmed valve springs (needed for 11psi or higher or risk floating a valve)[*]Powerhouse Turbo[*]13psi and 15psi w/75 shot[*]Bragging rights: 11.9 on 13psi, 11.02@126 on 15psi w/75 shot nitrous[/ul]
On the stock block, with shimmed vavle springs you can run mid to high 11's. High 11's reliably. Is your goal dyno driven or track driven? Depending on your specific situation, it may be more cost effective to wait and go GT and just put a blower on it. The GT rods and pistons are good to about 450, after that most GT owners I talked to said you are on borrowed time and room for error is minimal at best. If you are racing a lot on boost, for any car, forged internals are always a good bet. But a built motor does not mean its 100%. I cheap insurance policy at the track is to run race gas when you dial up the boost.
"Master of bad tech advice" What a f'ing hoot. Damn you must have pissed someone off good. Heres a tip, talk to things you have direct experience with.
10-21-2007, 12:24 PM
#20
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 5,172
RE: $3500 to spend and 400HP to gain
ORIGINAL: SteelStang05
Rygen, so would a 12psi dyno tuned intercooled vortech supercharger be fine for daily driving w/o forged internals? I know that you know a lot on super and turbochargers so I'll get your help while your here.
ORIGINAL: rygenstormlocke
For 400rwhp, it depends on the power adder, but it can be done on the stock block, but if you plan to beat and beat and beat on it, you should probably beef up the bottom end. Here are some real life combinations I have seen in person and at the track that broke the 400rwhp on stock internals....
Centri w/SSM Heads and Cams
[ul][*]Owner: Flapjack[*]SSM stage 3 heads and cams (includes upgraded valve springs)[*]Procharger DS1C[*]14lbs of boost[*]Catback exhaust[*]Bragging rights: 440rwhp / 380 rwtq @ 14psi [/ul]Centri w/Powerhouse Heads and Cams
[ul][*]Owner: Ranebowcyxx[*]PH Heads and Cams (includes new valve springs)[*]Procharger PS1C[*]10lbs of boost[*]Bragging rights: 12.03@115[/ul]Powerhouse Turbo w/shimmed valve springs [ul][*]Owner: Buckman[*]Shimmed valve springs (needed for 11psi or higher or risk floating a valve)[*]Powerhouse Turbo[*]13psi and 15psi w/75 shot[*]Bragging rights: 11.9 on 13psi, 11.02@126 on 15psi w/75 shot nitrous[/ul]
On the stock block, with shimmed vavle springs you can run mid to high 11's. High 11's reliably. Is your goal dyno driven or track driven? Depending on your specific situation, it may be more cost effective to wait and go GT and just put a blower on it. The GT rods and pistons are good to about 450, after that most GT owners I talked to said you are on borrowed time and room for error is minimal at best. If you are racing a lot on boost, for any car, forged internals are always a good bet. But a built motor does not mean its 100%. I cheap insurance policy at the track is to run race gas when you dial up the boost.
"Master of bad tech advice" What a f'ing hoot. Damn you must have pissed someone off good. Heres a tip, talk to things you have direct experience with.
For 400rwhp, it depends on the power adder, but it can be done on the stock block, but if you plan to beat and beat and beat on it, you should probably beef up the bottom end. Here are some real life combinations I have seen in person and at the track that broke the 400rwhp on stock internals....
Centri w/SSM Heads and Cams
[ul][*]Owner: Flapjack[*]SSM stage 3 heads and cams (includes upgraded valve springs)[*]Procharger DS1C[*]14lbs of boost[*]Catback exhaust[*]Bragging rights: 440rwhp / 380 rwtq @ 14psi [/ul]Centri w/Powerhouse Heads and Cams
[ul][*]Owner: Ranebowcyxx[*]PH Heads and Cams (includes new valve springs)[*]Procharger PS1C[*]10lbs of boost[*]Bragging rights: 12.03@115[/ul]Powerhouse Turbo w/shimmed valve springs [ul][*]Owner: Buckman[*]Shimmed valve springs (needed for 11psi or higher or risk floating a valve)[*]Powerhouse Turbo[*]13psi and 15psi w/75 shot[*]Bragging rights: 11.9 on 13psi, 11.02@126 on 15psi w/75 shot nitrous[/ul]
On the stock block, with shimmed vavle springs you can run mid to high 11's. High 11's reliably. Is your goal dyno driven or track driven? Depending on your specific situation, it may be more cost effective to wait and go GT and just put a blower on it. The GT rods and pistons are good to about 450, after that most GT owners I talked to said you are on borrowed time and room for error is minimal at best. If you are racing a lot on boost, for any car, forged internals are always a good bet. But a built motor does not mean its 100%. I cheap insurance policy at the track is to run race gas when you dial up the boost.
"Master of bad tech advice" What a f'ing hoot. Damn you must have pissed someone off good. Heres a tip, talk to things you have direct experience with.