just finished installing JBA shortie headers
11-14-2007, 05:17 PM
#13
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Sarasota FL
Posts: 324
RE: just finished installing JBA shorty headers
RG, I bought the JBA headers through RPM about 6 or 7 months ago for around $450 (ceramic coated version too). I had a lot of trepidation about this particular install, one of those things where I ended up putting the headers in the attic for about 4 months before deciding to put them on the car. [
]If you decide to go with this item, please be sure to shop around. I've seen these sell for as high as $850 for the ceramic and titanium versions. My next major install will be a set of MMR rear axle coil over shocks that I've also had sitting in the attic for about 3 months. This involves removal of the stock rear coil springs. After the header install, I feel a lot more confident when doing the shock install. Here's a couple more photos of the tubular front K-frame and A-arms I had installed on the car which really helped make the header install fairly easy because of the ease of access to things around the header flanges. The two living species are my girls, Sue and Kali taken up in PA. Take care, Jack.
[IMG]local://upfiles/63501/A9250F5F3A034346985684EC8EC245A8.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/63501/43BF0D4D946E4E119539F816F1D8E8DC.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/63501/FEF7276D58AE4CCCA3D124910E8A3C91.jpg[/IMG]
]If you decide to go with this item, please be sure to shop around. I've seen these sell for as high as $850 for the ceramic and titanium versions. My next major install will be a set of MMR rear axle coil over shocks that I've also had sitting in the attic for about 3 months. This involves removal of the stock rear coil springs. After the header install, I feel a lot more confident when doing the shock install. Here's a couple more photos of the tubular front K-frame and A-arms I had installed on the car which really helped make the header install fairly easy because of the ease of access to things around the header flanges. The two living species are my girls, Sue and Kali taken up in PA. Take care, Jack.[IMG]local://upfiles/63501/A9250F5F3A034346985684EC8EC245A8.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/63501/43BF0D4D946E4E119539F816F1D8E8DC.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/63501/FEF7276D58AE4CCCA3D124910E8A3C91.jpg[/IMG]
11-16-2007, 03:38 PM
#14
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 43
RE: just finished installing JBA shorty headers
"stainless make for a good presentation"? Of what?
A science demo of how corrosion and discoloration occur?
Stainless allows the pipes to cool off faster, it lookcleaner and besides that, ceramics are for molding clay....................not headers.......................
A science demo of how corrosion and discoloration occur?
Stainless allows the pipes to cool off faster, it lookcleaner and besides that, ceramics are for molding clay....................not headers.......................
11-17-2007, 03:05 PM
#16
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location:
Posts: 992
RE: just finished installing JBA shorty headers
actually, the ceramic keeps the heat inside the pipes, which keeps the engine bay cooler, and the exiting gasses, hotter (which theorhetically allows for quicer exiting exhaust, idk if its been proven). the stainless will change to a stange bluish/brown hue after you drive the car a little bit. and they look like s h i t. ceramic is worth the extra 150 or whatever, unless you like blue-brown headers and awarmer engine bay. 
11-17-2007, 03:12 PM
#17
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location:
Posts: 2,365
RE: just finished installing JBA shorty headers
ORIGINAL: 07lane40
actually, the ceramic keeps the heat inside the pipes, which keeps the engine bay cooler, and the exiting gasses, hotter (which theorhetically allows for quicer exiting exhaust, idk if its been proven). the stainless will change to a stange bluish/brown hue after you drive the car a little bit. and they look like s h i t. ceramic is worth the extra 150 or whatever, unless you like blue-brown headers and awarmer engine bay.
actually, the ceramic keeps the heat inside the pipes, which keeps the engine bay cooler, and the exiting gasses, hotter (which theorhetically allows for quicer exiting exhaust, idk if its been proven). the stainless will change to a stange bluish/brown hue after you drive the car a little bit. and they look like s h i t. ceramic is worth the extra 150 or whatever, unless you like blue-brown headers and awarmer engine bay.
11-17-2007, 06:20 PM
#18
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Sarasota FL
Posts: 324
RE: just finished installing JBA shorty headers
Jon, you ask, what makes the JBA header install "a little difficult." When I wrote my installment on my installation of the headers, I only touched on the major pitfalls on the install. There was a lot ofdetail that I just didn't discuss because I would have been writing all night.
One thing that has become very clear with this install is use the stock studs & nuts that are installed on the factory cast iron headers. There's been too many instances of fellows breaking these off or twisting off the torx head of the stud. The factory studs work beautiful.
Like every other major engine bay install, there's just never enough room to work comfortably. I did a lot of extra work to make room for "sanity and ease of access."
Itook out the complete battery assembly for unlimited access on the passenger side. I put the car up on ramps and dropped the whole front portion of the exhaust system and pushed it back out of the way under the car. This along with the BMR tubular front K-Member I had installed several months ago gave me incredible access underneath the car, especially to the header bolts on the driver's side back towards the firewall. This underneath access also made it very easy to work on the long EGR tube which bolts onto the top of the driver's side header.
Having a complete set of metric and imperial tools is a major plus. I have found that the set of metric wratcheting wrenches I bought as Sears has paid for itself many times overbecause of the many places that I canuse these tools. The flexible ends are worth a mint related to how and where these tools can be used. I also bought a wealth of metric and imperial sockets, extensions, swivel connections, and handles.
Patience, patience, and more patience is a must when doing jobs like header installs. Hope these observations help your confidence to pursue installing the things you want on your Mustang. Take care, Jack.
[IMG]local://upfiles/63501/9E1CE6DA511D4794B0A2E6F1A73FFDF5.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/63501/27FF2ACB287746318B7472A5F1E249CD.jpg[/IMG]
One thing that has become very clear with this install is use the stock studs & nuts that are installed on the factory cast iron headers. There's been too many instances of fellows breaking these off or twisting off the torx head of the stud. The factory studs work beautiful.
Like every other major engine bay install, there's just never enough room to work comfortably. I did a lot of extra work to make room for "sanity and ease of access."
Itook out the complete battery assembly for unlimited access on the passenger side. I put the car up on ramps and dropped the whole front portion of the exhaust system and pushed it back out of the way under the car. This along with the BMR tubular front K-Member I had installed several months ago gave me incredible access underneath the car, especially to the header bolts on the driver's side back towards the firewall. This underneath access also made it very easy to work on the long EGR tube which bolts onto the top of the driver's side header.
Having a complete set of metric and imperial tools is a major plus. I have found that the set of metric wratcheting wrenches I bought as Sears has paid for itself many times overbecause of the many places that I canuse these tools. The flexible ends are worth a mint related to how and where these tools can be used. I also bought a wealth of metric and imperial sockets, extensions, swivel connections, and handles.
Patience, patience, and more patience is a must when doing jobs like header installs. Hope these observations help your confidence to pursue installing the things you want on your Mustang. Take care, Jack.
[IMG]local://upfiles/63501/9E1CE6DA511D4794B0A2E6F1A73FFDF5.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/63501/27FF2ACB287746318B7472A5F1E249CD.jpg[/IMG]
11-18-2007, 01:33 AM
#19
RE: just finished installing JBA shorty headers
ORIGINAL: 07lane40
actually, the ceramic keeps the heat inside the pipes, which keeps the engine bay cooler, and the exiting gasses, hotter (which theorhetically allows for quicer exiting exhaust, idk if its been proven). the stainless will change to a stange bluish/brown hue after you drive the car a little bit. and they look like s h i t. ceramic is worth the extra 150 or whatever, unless you like blue-brown headers and awarmer engine bay.
actually, the ceramic keeps the heat inside the pipes, which keeps the engine bay cooler, and the exiting gasses, hotter (which theorhetically allows for quicer exiting exhaust, idk if its been proven). the stainless will change to a stange bluish/brown hue after you drive the car a little bit. and they look like s h i t. ceramic is worth the extra 150 or whatever, unless you like blue-brown headers and awarmer engine bay.
And for Mr Brumby, you might want to do a little online research into modern ceramics.
Ceramics haveseen more advancement in material sciences in the past twenty years than just about any other material one could mention. Besides use as coatings in severe duty environments, ceramics are used in high quality bearings, ceramic brake pads are already on the market, and ceramic rotors are beginning to appear on high end vehicles, vital components of modern cars like oxygen sensors and catalytic converters require ceramic components in their manufacture. That's barely even scratching the surface, but ceramics are NOT just for "molding clay"
