Exhaust install question
#1
Exhaust install question
Hey guys, I'm thinking about getting an FRPP x-pipe, a driver's side mid, and hanging the second GT takeoff on my V6, keeping the existing passenger side midpipe. My question is how high does the car have to be off the ground for me to snake the driver's side midpipe over the rear axle? Do I need a lift for this, or can I get away with a jack and some jack stands, or even a set of ramps? Thanks.
Also, one other question. Every website that shows the Ford Racing X pipe has it pictured with two clamps. Obviously, the job requires four, one for each of the four ends of the X pipe. Does it come with four or do I have to order an extra pair?
Also, one other question. Every website that shows the Ford Racing X pipe has it pictured with two clamps. Obviously, the job requires four, one for each of the four ends of the X pipe. Does it come with four or do I have to order an extra pair?
#2
RE: Exhaust install question
Trick question....
The X-Pipe comes with 2, but the midpipes should come with 2 also, so you may have to buy 2 more since you are not getting a mid pipe package.
I did my whole exhaust on car ramps, jack stands and a jack. But it was a pain, it would be MUCH easier on a lift, but it can be done on jackstands, it just has to be jacked up pretty high.
The X-Pipe comes with 2, but the midpipes should come with 2 also, so you may have to buy 2 more since you are not getting a mid pipe package.
I did my whole exhaust on car ramps, jack stands and a jack. But it was a pain, it would be MUCH easier on a lift, but it can be done on jackstands, it just has to be jacked up pretty high.
#4
RE: Exhaust install question
Standard set of jackstands, I set it on probably the second to highest setting. about 2ft off the ground, and it was still tough, the trick though is to jack the whole car up and put it in neutral.
You will know why when you are under there, but basically while you are trying to get the midpipe to fit over the axel, you will see it has to squeeze by the driveshaft, if the driveshaft can free spin, you can wiggle it by, by spinning the driveshaft with one hand and pushing the midpipe over with the other.
You will know why when you are under there, but basically while you are trying to get the midpipe to fit over the axel, you will see it has to squeeze by the driveshaft, if the driveshaft can free spin, you can wiggle it by, by spinning the driveshaft with one hand and pushing the midpipe over with the other.
#6
RE: Exhaust install question
When I did mine, I got all of the parts beforehand, Ford midpipe for left side, Gt takeoffs, Ford racing X, Muffler hangers and went to my local muffler shop. He charged me about $80. It was money well spent because I don't have a cutting torch to remove the vibration damper from the right mid-pipe, that would have been a pain in the butt if I were lying on the ground! Also, he welded in my X-pipe, as a result, I don't have any of the freaky noises that so many people post about. Like someone else said, your Ford X-pipe has only 2 clamps. I didn't use mine because of the welded pipes, but I'm saving them. I figure that if I ever have to remove part of the exhaust system for some unknown reason, I will use the clamps to re-install it.
#7
RE: Exhaust install question
I plan on going duals too in the near future too. From past experience I have a couple of tips that should help with doing the install at home.
[ul][*]Try disconnecting the shocks from the rear end before you start. That will allow the rear to drop down lower then it would with the shocks connected. Plus you can pull it down even lower on one side at a time (same as intalling springs). That should give the added clearance to get the pipe over the axle.[/ul][ul][*]Two a torch is a must for seperating rusted pipes, but for pipe cutting or in this case the damper you do have some other options. If you have the clearance a hacksaw is often good enough. Also a cutoff wheel can be attached to a drill but an angle grinder is best. The best option I've found is a sawzall again as long as there is room for the blade to work its magic.
[/ul]
[ul][*]Try disconnecting the shocks from the rear end before you start. That will allow the rear to drop down lower then it would with the shocks connected. Plus you can pull it down even lower on one side at a time (same as intalling springs). That should give the added clearance to get the pipe over the axle.[/ul][ul][*]Two a torch is a must for seperating rusted pipes, but for pipe cutting or in this case the damper you do have some other options. If you have the clearance a hacksaw is often good enough. Also a cutoff wheel can be attached to a drill but an angle grinder is best. The best option I've found is a sawzall again as long as there is room for the blade to work its magic.
[/ul]
#9
RE: Exhaust install question
ORIGINAL: Charlie321
Dumb question. Where's the dampener, and what does it look like?
Dumb question. Where's the dampener, and what does it look like?
Its a big mass of rubber bonded to abracket welded
to the muffler at the bottom of the pic.
I think the GTs have them by the H pipe.
[IMG]local://upfiles/69445/4503C0ABC2774029B8B24099D49CF302.jpg[/IMG]
#10
RE: Exhaust install question
Thanks for the pic, but 68XR7 says his was on the right midpipe. I can't find anything like that on the midpipe, or anywhere else on my system. Could it be because mine's an 07, and his is an 05?
BTW, nice job painting that muffler body.
BTW, nice job painting that muffler body.