10-22-2015, 03:54 PM
Last edit by: IB Advertising
See related guides and technical advice from our community experts:
Browse all: Ford Mustang Exterior Guides
- Ford Mustang V6 and Mustang GT 2005-2014: Exterior Modifications
Step by step instructions for do-it-yourself repairs.
Browse all: Ford Mustang Exterior Guides
Best mods for a daily driver?
01-24-2008, 09:33 AM
#11
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location:
Posts: 334
RE: Best mods for a daily driver?
ORIGINAL: kngdaka
I too use mine as my daily driver. Since I need it to last for as long as possible after I get my Masters degree in 5 years, I've decided not to screw with any of Ford's expert engineering. This means no tunes, which pretty much means no bolt ons for me. I'm paranoid that a tune isn't good for the car in the long haul. Instead, I've gone the exterior mod look, with painted mirror covers and quarter window louvers. Nothing major to ruin the car, just enough to add even more to the retro look. Once my golf course job starts up in the spring, I'll buy catback duals for that added growl, and thats the end for me.
Like others have said, the 210 is more than enough for daily driving, lane changes, laughing at civics... When I've had a bad day or want to get my mind off something, it has enough power for me to open up and have some fun. Plus its a Mustang, can you think of a greater American car icon besides the Vette?
I too use mine as my daily driver. Since I need it to last for as long as possible after I get my Masters degree in 5 years, I've decided not to screw with any of Ford's expert engineering. This means no tunes, which pretty much means no bolt ons for me. I'm paranoid that a tune isn't good for the car in the long haul. Instead, I've gone the exterior mod look, with painted mirror covers and quarter window louvers. Nothing major to ruin the car, just enough to add even more to the retro look. Once my golf course job starts up in the spring, I'll buy catback duals for that added growl, and thats the end for me.
Like others have said, the 210 is more than enough for daily driving, lane changes, laughing at civics... When I've had a bad day or want to get my mind off something, it has enough power for me to open up and have some fun. Plus its a Mustang, can you think of a greater American car icon besides the Vette?
I highlighted a section above. In these days of plug and play and computers, people tend to not understand what a "tune" really does. It's not black magic. There is a term called de-tuned and that's what manufacturers do. For general purpose, mass production cars, the mustang fits into that category, mfrs build them so the cheapest possible fuel can be used without harm to the car. They could tune the car for "premium fuel only" but they know some people would still buy the cheap gas, cause the car to detonate and that results in damage and possibly warranty claims.
A tune for high octane advances your timing which results in more power. A tune for a CAI also factors in more airflow so it must richen the fuel. On the v6 stang, the muffler is a major point of de-tuning. It is very restrictive. If Ford just made 1 type of muffler, the GT version, they could then use the same part across all models, GT and V6. The GT muffler is a direct bolt-on replacement for the sixer unit. Wouldn't that give Ford economy of scale? yes, but it would also make the v6 7-10 WHP more powerful (about 12-14 crank HP) and that would put the v6 close to 225 HP in the marketing literature making it get closer to the GT numbers....hmmm, maybe the mfr doesn't always have your best interest at heart. Think of working out with weights and not being allowed to breathe out of your mouth or both nostrils. You could only use 1 nostril; that's what the v6 exhaust is like. How can that possibly be better for the car? it isn't.
So to counter your point, you will, and this isn't theory, actually see IMPROVED results and life cycle if you replace the axle back, install a CAI and tune it and use higher grade gas. It's quite simple, if a machine is allowed to work at it's peak performance, as opposed to laboring, it will last longer.
But that means using higher octane gas and a mfr having to tell the masses that they must use 89 or 91 would make people cry FOUL; thus cars are de-tuned by the factory.
01-24-2008, 09:34 AM
#12
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Boise, Idaho
Posts: 278
RE: Best mods for a daily driver?
ORIGINAL: noober
Here's a list of items to get and the reasons you should get them:
CAI + Tune - Get this for better response (more sensitive throttle,) better gas milage and a quicker car overall. This is a first and foremost for all Mustangs, IMO.
Exhaust - A few more horsies, an easier-breathing engine, as well as a better sound. Get duals for the cosmetics because your car looks unbalanced otherwise.
Gearing - The stock 3.31s are fine and dandy, but if you wanna pass traffic (say that jerkoff in front of you going 55 in the fast lane) and need to move it fast, you'll be glad you have a different gear. It will get you faster "off the line," but it does make your car move quick at low RPMs. The only setback is you get a slightly lower MPG because you'll be revving a little higher, but a nice tune will reverse those effects while giving you nearly twice the torque + boost. Most V6s use 3.73s for daily drivers but a few use 4.10s. They claim no issues but you will be chugging gas like an Irishman chugs beer on St. Patrick's Day.
Other than that, there's the option of a TLOK/LSD (limited slip differential) which basically transfers power to both rear wheels instead of just the rear passanger wheel, but since you're getting TCS, it may be moot seeing as you won't really be utilizing the LSD all that much.
Other than that, the rest is either in the engine or swapping out the driveshaft for a lighter aluminum one. The only issue with that is that there's no HP gain, just a stronger driveshaft for if you ever dyno your car without a governor. Our cars peak out at 115, which is about the breaking point (literally) of the stock drive shaft.
Other than that, everything else is exterior. You won't really need upgraded breaks unless you're a hard stopper, wheels shouldn't be an issue, and unless you're doing canyon passes like I do (completely ridiculously...) then you won't need a shock kit or sway bars.
Pulleys and the like are overpriced options that are out of what you really should be considering so I didn't list them here.
Hope this helps! BTW, I know all this only because I've been living on these forums for the past 2 months.
Edit: With the 3 things I mentioned, you're looking at possibly 25RWHP which would bring you up to somewhere around 210RWHP on a dyno tune. I should note that it's a common misconception that changing gears increases horsepower: it doesn't. If I'm right, it only increases the torque. One last thing: If you're looking to mod a car, look at torque more than horsepower... Please!
Here's a list of items to get and the reasons you should get them:
CAI + Tune - Get this for better response (more sensitive throttle,) better gas milage and a quicker car overall. This is a first and foremost for all Mustangs, IMO.
Exhaust - A few more horsies, an easier-breathing engine, as well as a better sound. Get duals for the cosmetics because your car looks unbalanced otherwise.
Gearing - The stock 3.31s are fine and dandy, but if you wanna pass traffic (say that jerkoff in front of you going 55 in the fast lane) and need to move it fast, you'll be glad you have a different gear. It will get you faster "off the line," but it does make your car move quick at low RPMs. The only setback is you get a slightly lower MPG because you'll be revving a little higher, but a nice tune will reverse those effects while giving you nearly twice the torque + boost. Most V6s use 3.73s for daily drivers but a few use 4.10s. They claim no issues but you will be chugging gas like an Irishman chugs beer on St. Patrick's Day.
Other than that, there's the option of a TLOK/LSD (limited slip differential) which basically transfers power to both rear wheels instead of just the rear passanger wheel, but since you're getting TCS, it may be moot seeing as you won't really be utilizing the LSD all that much.
Other than that, the rest is either in the engine or swapping out the driveshaft for a lighter aluminum one. The only issue with that is that there's no HP gain, just a stronger driveshaft for if you ever dyno your car without a governor. Our cars peak out at 115, which is about the breaking point (literally) of the stock drive shaft.
Other than that, everything else is exterior. You won't really need upgraded breaks unless you're a hard stopper, wheels shouldn't be an issue, and unless you're doing canyon passes like I do (completely ridiculously...) then you won't need a shock kit or sway bars.
Pulleys and the like are overpriced options that are out of what you really should be considering so I didn't list them here.
Hope this helps! BTW, I know all this only because I've been living on these forums for the past 2 months.
Edit: With the 3 things I mentioned, you're looking at possibly 25RWHP which would bring you up to somewhere around 210RWHP on a dyno tune. I should note that it's a common misconception that changing gears increases horsepower: it doesn't. If I'm right, it only increases the torque. One last thing: If you're looking to mod a car, look at torque more than horsepower... Please!
And I agree with the above post ^. A "tune" only unlocks the cars designed (yes, designed) performance potential, If it wasnt there by design a tune could not "create" it. out of nothing. If you take care of your car and drive sensibly (even racing!) you can overcome almost any longevity issues. Its the stupe's who beat on a car that drive them to the junkyard too soon...
01-24-2008, 10:44 AM
#15
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location:
Posts: 334
RE: Best mods for a daily driver?
ORIGINAL: billybix76
LOL, is that "more intelligent" or more, intelligent...
ORIGINAL: powerband
Looking forward to more intelligent posts.
Looking forward to more intelligent posts.
01-24-2008, 11:41 AM
#16
DubStep Stu
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Arizona-ASU
Posts: 2,349
RE: Best mods for a daily driver?
My stang is my Daily dirver, when there's no snow, a CAI will give you exactly what you want, i havent done mine yet but will order it when the weather starts to get a little nicer, i think the CAI is what you're looking for
01-24-2008, 12:28 PM
#17
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Florida
Posts: 1,622
RE: Best mods for a daily driver?
ORIGINAL: billybix76
Overall, a great laundry list. One correction is the stocker RWHP is only about 165-175 so the standard bolt-on 25 "horsies" will get you to about 200 RWHP and 215 RWTQ depending on altitude, driveline efficency, fuel filter flow etc.........I daily drive mine 26 miles on freeway. Get about 27MPG running Doug's 91 race tune. I went for the suspension mods as well as the "standard" 4.0 bolt ons. so far I have spent about $2500 in mods over 2 years. I drove a stock Pony Pkg the other day,...it was like driving my grandma's '59 rambler...You get so used to a quicker more responsive car...
And I agree with the above post ^. A "tune" only unlocks the cars designed (yes, designed) performance potential, If it wasnt there by design a tune could not "create" it. out of nothing. If you take care of your car and drive sensibly (even racing!) you can overcome almost any longevity issues. Its the stupe's who beat on a car that drive them to the junkyard too soon...
ORIGINAL: noober
Here's a list of items to get and the reasons you should get them:
CAI + Tune - Get this for better response (more sensitive throttle,) better gas milage and a quicker car overall. This is a first and foremost for all Mustangs, IMO.
Exhaust - A few more horsies, an easier-breathing engine, as well as a better sound. Get duals for the cosmetics because your car looks unbalanced otherwise.
Gearing - The stock 3.31s are fine and dandy, but if you wanna pass traffic (say that jerkoff in front of you going 55 in the fast lane) and need to move it fast, you'll be glad you have a different gear. It will get you faster "off the line," but it does make your car move quick at low RPMs. The only setback is you get a slightly lower MPG because you'll be revving a little higher, but a nice tune will reverse those effects while giving you nearly twice the torque + boost. Most V6s use 3.73s for daily drivers but a few use 4.10s. They claim no issues but you will be chugging gas like an Irishman chugs beer on St. Patrick's Day.
Other than that, there's the option of a TLOK/LSD (limited slip differential) which basically transfers power to both rear wheels instead of just the rear passanger wheel, but since you're getting TCS, it may be moot seeing as you won't really be utilizing the LSD all that much.
Other than that, the rest is either in the engine or swapping out the driveshaft for a lighter aluminum one. The only issue with that is that there's no HP gain, just a stronger driveshaft for if you ever dyno your car without a governor. Our cars peak out at 115, which is about the breaking point (literally) of the stock drive shaft.
Other than that, everything else is exterior. You won't really need upgraded breaks unless you're a hard stopper, wheels shouldn't be an issue, and unless you're doing canyon passes like I do (completely ridiculously...) then you won't need a shock kit or sway bars.
Pulleys and the like are overpriced options that are out of what you really should be considering so I didn't list them here.
Hope this helps! BTW, I know all this only because I've been living on these forums for the past 2 months.
Edit: With the 3 things I mentioned, you're looking at possibly 25RWHP which would bring you up to somewhere around 210RWHP on a dyno tune. I should note that it's a common misconception that changing gears increases horsepower: it doesn't. If I'm right, it only increases the torque. One last thing: If you're looking to mod a car, look at torque more than horsepower... Please!
Here's a list of items to get and the reasons you should get them:
CAI + Tune - Get this for better response (more sensitive throttle,) better gas milage and a quicker car overall. This is a first and foremost for all Mustangs, IMO.
Exhaust - A few more horsies, an easier-breathing engine, as well as a better sound. Get duals for the cosmetics because your car looks unbalanced otherwise.
Gearing - The stock 3.31s are fine and dandy, but if you wanna pass traffic (say that jerkoff in front of you going 55 in the fast lane) and need to move it fast, you'll be glad you have a different gear. It will get you faster "off the line," but it does make your car move quick at low RPMs. The only setback is you get a slightly lower MPG because you'll be revving a little higher, but a nice tune will reverse those effects while giving you nearly twice the torque + boost. Most V6s use 3.73s for daily drivers but a few use 4.10s. They claim no issues but you will be chugging gas like an Irishman chugs beer on St. Patrick's Day.
Other than that, there's the option of a TLOK/LSD (limited slip differential) which basically transfers power to both rear wheels instead of just the rear passanger wheel, but since you're getting TCS, it may be moot seeing as you won't really be utilizing the LSD all that much.
Other than that, the rest is either in the engine or swapping out the driveshaft for a lighter aluminum one. The only issue with that is that there's no HP gain, just a stronger driveshaft for if you ever dyno your car without a governor. Our cars peak out at 115, which is about the breaking point (literally) of the stock drive shaft.
Other than that, everything else is exterior. You won't really need upgraded breaks unless you're a hard stopper, wheels shouldn't be an issue, and unless you're doing canyon passes like I do (completely ridiculously...) then you won't need a shock kit or sway bars.
Pulleys and the like are overpriced options that are out of what you really should be considering so I didn't list them here.
Hope this helps! BTW, I know all this only because I've been living on these forums for the past 2 months.
Edit: With the 3 things I mentioned, you're looking at possibly 25RWHP which would bring you up to somewhere around 210RWHP on a dyno tune. I should note that it's a common misconception that changing gears increases horsepower: it doesn't. If I'm right, it only increases the torque. One last thing: If you're looking to mod a car, look at torque more than horsepower... Please!
And I agree with the above post ^. A "tune" only unlocks the cars designed (yes, designed) performance potential, If it wasnt there by design a tune could not "create" it. out of nothing. If you take care of your car and drive sensibly (even racing!) you can overcome almost any longevity issues. Its the stupe's who beat on a car that drive them to the junkyard too soon...
01-24-2008, 12:31 PM
#18
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Southern California
Posts: 3,678
RE: Best mods for a daily driver?
i dont call mine my daily driver (my ranger is my DD) but i also dont have plans on making my stang a race track machine. Its just my toy for evenings out on the town or the weeknd. My performance mods are currently jba dual exhaust and custom tune /w C&L. this is actually plenty for city driving but i still plan on getting gears/lsd, headers and maybe an aluminum driveshaft. like i said, i'm not trying to race it, just make my street driving as enjoyable as possible. its great to accelerate past all these yuppies in their beamers and benzos in my 20K msrp mustang. since you're in la, responsiveness and acceleration should be more logical for you than WOT or top speed. otherwise i may see you in a high speed chase on kcal 9 news hauling *** down than 405...[8D]
. since you're in la, responsiveness and acceleration should be more logical for you than WOT or top speed. otherwise i may see you in a high speed chase on kcal 9 news hauling *** down than 405...[8D]
01-24-2008, 12:52 PM
#19
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: CA
Posts: 728
RE: Best mods for a daily driver?
ORIGINAL: Sancho805
i dont call mine my daily driver (my ranger is my DD) but i also dont have plans on making my stang a race track machine. Its just my toy for evenings out on the town or the weeknd. My performance mods are currently jba dual exhaust and custom tune /w C&L. this is actually plenty for city driving but i still plan on getting gears/lsd, headers and maybe an aluminum driveshaft. like i said, i'm not trying to race it, just make my street driving as enjoyable as possible. its great to accelerate past all these yuppies in their beamers and benzos in my 20K msrp mustang. since you're in la, responsiveness and acceleration should be more logical for you than WOT or top speed. otherwise i may see you in a high speed chase on kcal 9 news hauling *** down than 405...[8D]
i dont call mine my daily driver (my ranger is my DD) but i also dont have plans on making my stang a race track machine. Its just my toy for evenings out on the town or the weeknd. My performance mods are currently jba dual exhaust and custom tune /w C&L. this is actually plenty for city driving but i still plan on getting gears/lsd, headers and maybe an aluminum driveshaft. like i said, i'm not trying to race it, just make my street driving as enjoyable as possible. its great to accelerate past all these yuppies in their beamers and benzos in my 20K msrp mustang
. since you're in la, responsiveness and acceleration should be more logical for you than WOT or top speed. otherwise i may see you in a high speed chase on kcal 9 news hauling *** down than 405...[8D]
01-24-2008, 12:56 PM
#20
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Southern California
Posts: 3,678
RE: Best mods for a daily driver?
ORIGINAL: noober
You know you're a Southern Californian if you know not to be on the 405 AT 4:05.
You know you're a Southern Californian if you know not to be on the 405 AT 4:05.