Help With Slow-X!
#11
I would say update your tune. And while I know this isn't a "street racing" conversation...you probably shouldn't admit you do it...you WILL get flamed for it. But hey what do I know. Good luck with the XCharger.
#12
I'm not worried about the guy doing the street racing, its the kid, or the car with the family in it, or whomever becomes an innocent victim because of what is essentially reckless driving. I could give a S*** less about the dummies that partake in street racing as their safety is not the reason I raise the concern. But hey, thanks for taking an afterthought I had at the end of the post and trying to make me look a jerk when ever responsible person realizes why street racing is such a bad idea. Rant Off!
The reason most asshats crash and hurt people in street racing is because
1) they race through traffic
2) choose a retarded road with lots of lights
3) they go too fast
4) they race on turns
#13
just gotta realize like me its a 6 no matter what you do to it its still not gonna be GT fast its a nice car but its like trying to get lemon juice out of an orange its just not worth the effor thats y i gave up on mine and it is what it is
#14
I've seen it go both ways. A bone stock GT is capable of mid thirteens in the 1/4. From what I understand, an X-charged sixxer is capable of high thirteens. Assuming the V6 pilot is even a little bit better of a driver than the V8 pilot, it could have easily gone the other way. Don't stop modding, you'll get there.
#15
Today I raced my friend who bought an 06' Mustang GT. It is completely stock. As for my car, I have the following performance mods:
Performance Mods:
- X-Charger Kit/Eaton M90 2.8" Pulley
- FRPP 3.73 Gears
- FRPP T-Lok
- Aluminum Spydershaft
- MAC Longtube Headers
- MAC Prochamber
- Borla Stingers
- GT500 LCAs
- GT500 Rear Anti-Sway Bar
- S-Style 18" Chrome Rims 255/45 front, 285/35 back
We raced twice. First time was from a light. He was maybe a foot ahead of me at start. Second time was from 20mph roll, again he was ahead a foot at start. Both times, I lost. I was always half a car length behind him. Both times it took a 1 1/2-2 seconds for the boost to kick in (throttle lag).
I just can't imagine why I lost to a STOCK GT. I thought just a plain X-Charger should beat it. I have a ****load of other performance mods and I couldn't even keep up. Does anyone have an answer or any insight into this? Could it be that the tune sucks?
Side Note: I did not get my car re-tuned after installation of longtubes, prochamber, borlas.
Performance Mods:
- X-Charger Kit/Eaton M90 2.8" Pulley
- FRPP 3.73 Gears
- FRPP T-Lok
- Aluminum Spydershaft
- MAC Longtube Headers
- MAC Prochamber
- Borla Stingers
- GT500 LCAs
- GT500 Rear Anti-Sway Bar
- S-Style 18" Chrome Rims 255/45 front, 285/35 back
We raced twice. First time was from a light. He was maybe a foot ahead of me at start. Second time was from 20mph roll, again he was ahead a foot at start. Both times, I lost. I was always half a car length behind him. Both times it took a 1 1/2-2 seconds for the boost to kick in (throttle lag).
I just can't imagine why I lost to a STOCK GT. I thought just a plain X-Charger should beat it. I have a ****load of other performance mods and I couldn't even keep up. Does anyone have an answer or any insight into this? Could it be that the tune sucks?
Side Note: I did not get my car re-tuned after installation of longtubes, prochamber, borlas.
#16
I think the verdict is to get a new tune or update the one you have now. I would be pissed if I lost to a gt with your mods...thats a good bit of money put in your car and yet u cant beat a stock gt. thats messed...
btw, those rims look sick dude.
btw, those rims look sick dude.
#17
Do you know AFR (air/fuel ratio)? I've seen FI 4.0L's who do not have a gauge and have no clue about their AFR. If I were FI, a wideband AFR gauge would be installed at the same time as the supercharger/turbo. Then I would get it properly tuned before even hitting the road.
You could wait for the intercooler, or swap to another pulley. But make sure that thing is properly tuned after adding significant mods.
I'd hate for this to turn into a serious debate about FI for the 4.0L versus buying a GT. We all mod our Stangs for different reasons. For me, the bang for the buck wasn't there on going FI, so I've kept my car(s) N/A. But for those who want to go FI, have at it! It's your car and your money.
Originally Posted by mustangpogi
Wait until the intercooled comes out. Try re-tuning your car see what happen. good luck.
I'd hate for this to turn into a serious debate about FI for the 4.0L versus buying a GT. We all mod our Stangs for different reasons. For me, the bang for the buck wasn't there on going FI, so I've kept my car(s) N/A. But for those who want to go FI, have at it! It's your car and your money.
#19
Thats very true, but in some cases its just damn near impossible to crash. If you have like at least 3 lanes, road is STRAIGHT, not curved, and there is a good amount of room between lights, you would be fine. Plus, racing to a certain speed like 80ish would be fine, anything past that is stupid for the street.
The reason most asshats crash and hurt people in street racing is because
1) they race through traffic
2) choose a retarded road with lots of lights
3) they go too fast
4) they race on turns
The reason most asshats crash and hurt people in street racing is because
1) they race through traffic
2) choose a retarded road with lots of lights
3) they go too fast
4) they race on turns
#20
Do get a new dyno tune for the longtubes it will help.
Is your car auto or stick?
Were you launching in boost or just stand on the throttle?
Did you add the longtubes for sound or want better performance?
Adding every performance bolt-on does not mean you car will be faster.
The X kit was designed and tested on a 6 with a single exhaust.
Adding longtubes and duals moved your HP and torque curve... you need to dyno and see where the curve is now. The dyno results will tell you where you need to launch and shift to stay in the power band. If that's not possible with your current set up, you'll know what needs to be changed to get you there. After looking at the dyno results, you might find that your stock exhaust manifolds were better suited to your current trans/rear.
Is your car auto or stick?
Were you launching in boost or just stand on the throttle?
Did you add the longtubes for sound or want better performance?
Adding every performance bolt-on does not mean you car will be faster.
The X kit was designed and tested on a 6 with a single exhaust.
Adding longtubes and duals moved your HP and torque curve... you need to dyno and see where the curve is now. The dyno results will tell you where you need to launch and shift to stay in the power band. If that's not possible with your current set up, you'll know what needs to be changed to get you there. After looking at the dyno results, you might find that your stock exhaust manifolds were better suited to your current trans/rear.
Last edited by GrayPony; 09-18-2008 at 05:45 PM.