lauraspony

Well i found a big v8 that was still being worked on and we had ran one time earlier and found out we where withing .200 of each other so we decided to race. the r/t on this run is bad "actually all night i only had 1 good r/t all night.

here are the numbers for this run. and they run a .500 r/t setting so you have to subtract .500 from the number to get the r/t i normally see in the other set up

r/t .758 ".258 actual"
60' 2.051 "fastest to date for me"
330 6.049
1/8 9.370
mph 74.12

i would have had a faster run on the very last run but the tree started the moment i staged and i wasn't ready, had a r/t of 1.08 ".508 and still did a 9.500 even on that run

we had 2 really good races, i actually won one of the races because he got a late start but he won the others. but when we launched close together the races where very close alot of fun racing a side by side

I am the 1902 car

rygenstormlocke

That's a really strong ET, well done! Definitely a 14 second car. And that's an awesome 60ft on streets. What rpm did you launch at?

28HopUp

Very nice time! I'm curious, was this a bracket race or a regular street night? For those who don't know, your reaction time only matters when bracket racing. For regular street events and test & tunes, the timers don't start until the car moves out of the staging beams.

Again, nice job! Definetly have mid-14's in it for the 1/4 mile.

lauraspony

That is what's strange to me I was launching at around 3k+ but I tried to avoid any spin on a run " 2nd run the tires started to spin on the 3rd amber" so I only revved it to about 2200 or tax more. I ran two run at 9.3 last night. And I really think the car will do 9.2 because of the r/t and 3rd gear spin "bark"

Strange though you say 14 because at auto club I could not break 15.08. But I was told track goes uphill plus elevation at autoclub is why

This was test and tune. And hmm I was told to r/t counted. If I am here next week I will have to clarify tHat. Cause if it doesn't my math is all wrong. I wanted to run king of the hill but did not know where to go to enter. I was told that is racing based on your times vs the other persons time not just both going at the same time.

Sorry for the typos I am on the iPhone LOL

jimkaray

I think some further explanation is needed on this subject. It may be that at your track on test & tune runs they give the win light to the faster et but I doubt the basic timing process is changed. The et timers never start until you leave the starting line.
1) The reaction time timer begins as soon as the third amber light comes on and stops when the car moves off the starting line.
2) Next the the e.t timer starts when the staging beam at the starting line is cleared by the front tires. The same time as the reaction timer stops.

ET is still ET - regardless of your reaction time. However as a matter of who gets there first a race with 2 equal et's will be decided by the faster reaction time and a slower et with a superior rt can cross the line first.

lauraspony

so that explains why my 9.3 beat the 9.2 so 9.2 is possible for me if I solve the launchand the 3rd geAr. There are a few other tracks that are 1/4 in the northern Cali area that I hope to find info on and race at next week. Do any of you know of any other than autoclub cause they are done till December.

jimkaray

Yep, as you mentioned in the first post "reaction time matters", not in et but in who wins the race to the finish line. The time slip you posted breaks down like this:
.895 - .768 = .127 advantage off the line to you in the left lane.
9.370 - 9.220 = 0.15 quicker et to the right lane.
.127 - .15 makes the winning margin of 0.023 to the right lane.

You can find a list of drag strips by state on this track finder page. They also have a lot of other good drag racing resources as well.

If you are having trouble with the 2-3 shift a quality shifter will help. First let me suggest you try pulling your seat up as far as possible while still being able to shift smoothly and quickly. This is only a 9 second ride so don't be concerned with overall driving comfort, just make sure you can work the clutch and shifter properly. Keeping the mechanics shortened up adds speed and accuracy to your shifts.

melo15fan15

My car runs mid 14's but my best 1/8 is only 9.41...sooo you have a pretty legit car man. im guessing like a 14.3-14.4

What are your mods though? With my nitrous im still only in the mid 14's

i guess i should get a tune huh...

jimkaray

Track elevation & weather conditions affect your times so that always has to be taken into consideration.
My mods are all in my sig. Don't want to hijack the post but w/ nitrous a bottle heater & pressure guage are musts. Keep pressure at 950 - 1050 psi, under 850 you'll be way down on power. You definitely need to get a tune and it should get a nitrous specific tune. If CAI didn't need a tune it isn't adding much power. I worked my way up to the 100 shot on 93 octane tune pretty quickly but early on the 75 shot w/ a non-nitrous 87 performance tune my best 1/4 was 13.733/100.63 & 1/8 on that run was 8.849/79.55. link to my runs from this season.

melo15fan15

But dont you HAVE to run 93 octane when you use nitrous? Therefore if you had 93 octane in the tank how would one benefit from an 87 tune?

Im new to the whole tune thing, any insight/info would be helpful thanks