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Bolt on N/A's what are you running in the 1/4?

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Old 11-12-2008, 02:49 AM
  #11  
Avalanch3
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CAI + Tune from either brenspeed or bama, and run the 93 race tune if you can (some places like California doesn't really carry 93 octane).

Alone with the CAI+Tune, you can get UDP's, which will add a lil bit more power but I hear it makes all the other bits in your car run slower like the A/C or the radio.

You could also get LCA's or wider tires for better traction/less wheel hop for that better 60' time.

Umm you could also get new gears, 3.73's or 4.10's which would put about .2-.3 seconds off your time.

I say if you get LCA's, CAI+Tune, and some 4.10's, you will get what you are aiming for. I would say get better tires but that doens't fit in your budget. If you have those 16' stocker rims on, they have those bridgestone 215/65 16r tires on them =/
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Old 11-12-2008, 04:01 AM
  #12  
illin
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Originally Posted by 28HopUp
FIXED

There are a few "factory freaks" out there. I saw a 4.0L/5spd (Stin42) with ONLY a tune, intake and axleback run a 14.4xx. That car is the exception, rather than the rule, but it is possible.

I had quite a few bolt-ons on my old 2006 PP 4.0L/5spd coupe, and ran a best ET of 14.312.
100% agree. My car is pretty stock, basically CAI/tune, axleback etc...basically all the firsts. I could not break 15 to save my life...got really close (15.05) but mostly hung around 15.1 to 15.2.

My dad hopped in (a guy with probably 50K runs down the track) and he popped a 14.78 first go. After that...he was consistently in the 14.7 - 14.9 range.

FWIW, there were a couple of V6 manuals with a tune and they were running consistent 15.3 - 15.7. The auto is the way to go on the track. I did notice they were running the little 16's and were having a problem getting the power down...launches were sloppy.

If I feel really inclined to get past 14.7...I am going to have to buck up. And to be honest, I am happy where the car is right now. The new Bama tune gave me the crisp rev and shifting I was after and the car drives superbly.

To be honest...if I decide to go deeper, I will probably just spray. It is the most bang for the buck...guaranteed. But, I may wait till I am out of warranty for that to happen! As it sits with a 75 shot, I will be looking at 14 flat and maybe peak into the 13's. That should give a few GT owners a bit of a scare on the track.
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Old 11-12-2008, 12:04 PM
  #13  
NYstang
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reading through this, I realized theres one confusing thing- when yall say 5 speed, i dont know if you mean auto or stick!

kng's car is an auto, btw dudes.
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Old 11-12-2008, 12:17 PM
  #14  
kngdaka
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Originally Posted by NYstang
reading through this, I realized theres one confusing thing- when yall say 5 speed, i dont know if you mean auto or stick!

kng's car is an auto, btw dudes.

Thanks Alex, my fault!
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Old 11-12-2008, 12:32 PM
  #15  
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Oh, well, still.

CAI+Tune for an auto is difference between night and day, especially the new race tunes from Doug @ Bamachips. That is an easy 12-15 RWHP

Also you running the stock V6 muffler? If so, change that to at least a single GT Muffler, no need to go duals really (more show than go). GT Muffler will pick you up a couple RWHP, not much

UDP's claim they will give you 12-15 RWHP but thats bs, more like 5ish and idc what their dynos say.

Gears will improve your time depending on which ones you get by about .2-.4 seconds in the 1/4.

So if you are running 15.4's right now, with gears you'll be running about a 15.1, with the GT Muffler it would be 15, with the CAI+Tune it would be around 14.7, with the UDP you will get mid 14's.

So all of those mods will get you one step close to the time you are aiming for
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Old 11-12-2008, 12:56 PM
  #16  
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for 1200...
CAI + tune obviously = 625 @ bama
GT takeoff muffler = probably get one for $50-75

That leaves about $500 for play with. Personally, I'd shop around and troll the forums for the best deal you can on gears and limited slip, or if you can do the 8.8 rear end swap yourself, you could save for that.

But, if you want to spend that money now on things that will be useful:
hotpart.com J&M LCA's - 120ish
adjustable uca - 150ish
zabteck throttle body (maybe only worth it if you want f/i in the future) - $290ish?
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Old 11-12-2008, 01:08 PM
  #17  
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If he gets the gears or other parts that he cannot install himself, he will need extra money for install costs from a shop.
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Old 11-12-2008, 03:47 PM
  #18  
4.0 $tang
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with the mods in my sig i am consitantly in the mid 14's with a best run of 14.443@94.60....60ft 2.059

Pypes Tru-Dual Exhaust..............................$350.00
Diablosport Predator...................................$299.00
C&L Intake (used)......................................$100.0 0
Motive Performance Plus 3.73
Motive Bearing Installation Kit
Ford Racing Performance T-Lok
Ford Racing Performance Friction Modifier........$460.00
------------------------------------------------------
.................................................. ............$1210.00

if you can install everything yourself you need 10 bucks
if not save up another 300-400 for install of the gears and t-lok

that was my road to the mid 14's......just my 2 cents

Last edited by 4.0 $tang; 11-12-2008 at 03:58 PM. Reason: more info
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Old 11-12-2008, 04:35 PM
  #19  
kngdaka
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Originally Posted by 4.0 $tang
with the mods in my sig i am consitantly in the mid 14's with a best run of 14.443@94.60....60ft 2.059

Pypes Tru-Dual Exhaust..............................$350.00
Diablosport Predator...................................$299.00
C&L Intake (used)......................................$100.0 0
Motive Performance Plus 3.73
Motive Bearing Installation Kit
Ford Racing Performance T-Lok
Ford Racing Performance Friction Modifier........$460.00
------------------------------------------------------
.................................................. ............$1210.00

if you can install everything yourself you need 10 bucks
if not save up another 300-400 for install of the gears and t-lok

that was my road to the mid 14's......just my 2 cents

Thanks for the information everyone, but this is what I'm after.

So its not as simple as I would have thought....so close but oh so far away. The thing that kills me is the instal cost for the gears.
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Old 11-12-2008, 06:49 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by kngdaka
Thanks for the information everyone, but this is what I'm after.

So its not as simple as I would have thought....so close but oh so far away. The thing that kills me is the instal cost for the gears.
Look at it this way if it were cheap to get to 14.5, you'd want 14.0, then 13.5 and so on. If you're on a tight budget and want to make every dollar count you just need to read up a bunch and ask questions. Don't get hung up on numbers, there's always someone faster. Have fun doing it and set achievable goals.

I agree with most of what everyone has said so far. CAI/tune, GT take off muffler, then maybe a driveshaft. Save up for the gears/tloc.
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