Changing current rearend to Tloc vs GT takeoff
01-19-2009, 02:52 PM
#11
a detroit true trac and eaton LSD are clutchless style LSDs, (meaning they use gears instead of clutches) the 31 splines in the 8.8s are only ~30% stronger then the 28s in the 7.5.
7.5s with a true trac/eaton, girdle, (you will need a panhard bar relocation kit as well for that) have withstood 400 rwft.lbs of torque on DRs, ive even blown an 8.8 up on a stock mach 1, there not THAT strong, but they are stronger then the tlok in the 7.5.
all v6 cars are 3.31s with an open diff.
however an 8.8 with a detroit or eaton or even a 9" will obviously be stronger, but a built 7.5 will be able to withstand more then almost anyone on here can throw at it
7.5s with a true trac/eaton, girdle, (you will need a panhard bar relocation kit as well for that) have withstood 400 rwft.lbs of torque on DRs, ive even blown an 8.8 up on a stock mach 1, there not THAT strong, but they are stronger then the tlok in the 7.5.
all v6 cars are 3.31s with an open diff.
however an 8.8 with a detroit or eaton or even a 9" will obviously be stronger, but a built 7.5 will be able to withstand more then almost anyone on here can throw at it
01-19-2009, 04:27 PM
#12
Cut & Paste Expert
Join Date: May 2007
Location: NW Arkansas
Posts: 13,322
https://mustangforums.com/forum/4-0l...-rear-end.html
https://mustangforums.com/forum/4-0l...a-diy-mod.html
Now to just decide on what gear ratio to get as well.
4.10
3.73
3.55
https://mustangforums.com/forum/4-0l...a-diy-mod.html
Now to just decide on what gear ratio to get as well.
4.10
3.73
3.55
Last edited by 157dB; 01-19-2009 at 04:30 PM.
01-19-2009, 11:11 PM
#13
5th Gear Member
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Central Texas
Posts: 2,388
If there's a lot of Mustangs in your area, keep your eyes open for a take-off 8.8 locally, or if you know a Ford mechanic 
.
I picked up a 8.8 from a '08 GT C/S for a few hundred bucks, and even with different gears, got it all installed for under $500 with gear change.
FWIW, I too spent a lot of time struggling over the 7.5-upgrade vs. putting in a 8.8 and being done with it. If you're running (and plan to run) 400hp or less, you'll be happy with a built 7.5, but I'd recommend a true-trac instead of t-loc, even though it cost a little more but is much stronger. If you plan on running F/I with slicks at the track, seriously consider just upgrading to an 8.8 with different gears and you'll be done with it the first time.
As an interim if you want to do it gradually, you can get a take-off 8.8 and just put it in with whatever gears it has, most likely 3.31s but some have 3.55s. Then do gears later.
So, which is best to do? Depends on what you eventually want to get to with power, how you intend to drive it (track or street only), and how you want to spend the money. If I did it again I would just skip the t-loc and do either the 8.8 or true-trac.
.I picked up a 8.8 from a '08 GT C/S for a few hundred bucks, and even with different gears, got it all installed for under $500 with gear change.
FWIW, I too spent a lot of time struggling over the 7.5-upgrade vs. putting in a 8.8 and being done with it. If you're running (and plan to run) 400hp or less, you'll be happy with a built 7.5, but I'd recommend a true-trac instead of t-loc, even though it cost a little more but is much stronger. If you plan on running F/I with slicks at the track, seriously consider just upgrading to an 8.8 with different gears and you'll be done with it the first time.
As an interim if you want to do it gradually, you can get a take-off 8.8 and just put it in with whatever gears it has, most likely 3.31s but some have 3.55s. Then do gears later.
So, which is best to do? Depends on what you eventually want to get to with power, how you intend to drive it (track or street only), and how you want to spend the money. If I did it again I would just skip the t-loc and do either the 8.8 or true-trac.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
tj@steeda
Steeda Autosports
0
09-08-2015 11:50 AM
