level not lower, the car ? cut or what ?
#1
level not lower, the car ? cut or what ?
how much would I have to lower the rear to level the car ?
What would be the best way to do this ?
If its only about 1/4 of an inch I don't see why cutting them would be a problem.
What would be the best way to do this ?
If its only about 1/4 of an inch I don't see why cutting them would be a problem.
#3
Nope, cutting is not the way to go when Roush
sells rear lowering springs by themselves for $125.
What a sweet deal.
Cutting of the rear stock springs causes all sorts
of wheel hoppage and a sooner to bottom out on
the bumpers rear end kinda ride.
sells rear lowering springs by themselves for $125.
What a sweet deal.
Cutting of the rear stock springs causes all sorts
of wheel hoppage and a sooner to bottom out on
the bumpers rear end kinda ride.
#4
Now I don't think I would even need to take 1/2 a coil but if I did on the rear just to level the car it would be an improvement over the v6 stock setup because of oversteer (no rear sway bar) I plan on doing suspension mods but paying for springs is a waste of money unless you are going to lower it or go to a coilover setup.
that $125 can go towards the adjustable upper control arm I want.
there is a wrong way to do it and If I cut 2'' off them wheelhop would be an issue not all from the spring but the altered suspension geometry that someone being cheap would fail to correct .
no beef
maybe a better question would of been what is the stock ride height front compared to rear ? (on a v6)
Last edited by clintster77; 02-14-2009 at 04:46 PM.
#5
I hope I did not misunderstand you . $125 for the rear . are those leveling springs ?
#6
This would be them...$127
http://store.roushperformance.com/detail.aspx?ID=322
Of course, its also probably recommended to switch out the rear shocks too as 157db illustrates in that photo as well...
http://store.roushperformance.com/detail.aspx?ID=324
http://store.roushperformance.com/detail.aspx?ID=322
Of course, its also probably recommended to switch out the rear shocks too as 157db illustrates in that photo as well...
http://store.roushperformance.com/detail.aspx?ID=324
#7
This would be them...$127
http://store.roushperformance.com/detail.aspx?ID=322
Of course, its also probably recommended to switch out the rear shocks too as 157db illustrates in that photo as well...
http://store.roushperformance.com/detail.aspx?ID=324
http://store.roushperformance.com/detail.aspx?ID=322
Of course, its also probably recommended to switch out the rear shocks too as 157db illustrates in that photo as well...
http://store.roushperformance.com/detail.aspx?ID=324
I read somewhere that a GT has a lower ride from the factory . if so those may still work if they are stock GT height as that would lower the rear only..Stiffer to
#8
This would be them...$127
http://store.roushperformance.com/detail.aspx?ID=322
Of course, its also probably recommended to switch out the rear shocks too as 157db illustrates in that photo as well...
http://store.roushperformance.com/detail.aspx?ID=324
http://store.roushperformance.com/detail.aspx?ID=322
Of course, its also probably recommended to switch out the rear shocks too as 157db illustrates in that photo as well...
http://store.roushperformance.com/detail.aspx?ID=324
roush leveling springs
#9
I would be very concerned about quickly blowing through the stroke and maxing out the capability of the stops in a g-out scenario...you know, those sharp dips in county roads.
#10
I agree 100%. Progressive rate springs are REALLY tough to "eyeball". We have cut monoshock springs and put them on a bench meter and can never get two springs to match up no matter how closely we cut.
I would be very concerned about quickly blowing through the stroke and maxing out the capability of the stops in a g-out scenario...you know, those sharp dips in county roads.
I would be very concerned about quickly blowing through the stroke and maxing out the capability of the stops in a g-out scenario...you know, those sharp dips in county roads.
I wouldn't use ones that are way off from each other though . anyone that is that worried about just a few lbs of rate are also the people that hate pan hard bars and want a watts link instead ( like me ) but I understand that a few lbs in the correct corner can be an advantage . I wish I could put the steering wheel in the center of the car and make it a one seater .
also I would probably add some rubber bump stops or some of those rubber spring shims that fit between the coils to stiffen up the spring as a cheap fix .
over one inch or so I would not feel comfortable cutting and would for sure buy some lowering springs . a car that has the maximum weight in the trunk or a lot of fat passengers would ride lower than 1 inch or so and would have more probs on that country road than a 1 inch cut spring . (In theory)