wvabeer

it's a money thing for me right now I need this info incase the junk yard gives me a 8.8 I really hope I get everything I need in one trip.

beaustang

If I break my 7.5 with T-Lock I'll switch to an 8.8, but like Afixer I got my 7.5 T-Lock and gears installed for 50 bucks so it was an easy decision.

pascal

Like I said, get EVERYTHING with the DS as well, if they have it.
Do all your homework first and then take the trip.

Legion5

The v6 supports the most powerful posi around, the detroit true track, which is specifically featured in Saleen cars and is better than the 8.8 posi in countless ways.

Modders are possibly the most nonsensical people out there, many of them use throttle body spacers if you'll take note.

Circumstantial evidence is what leads to bull**** left and right.

Here are the facts:

A rear end's strength depends HEAVILY on the quality of the parts, NOT the size, a 100" rear end could be weaker than a 2" rear end. This is mainly the bearings the gears, the shaft design and the housings that matter.

Ford only makes a very limited variety of rear ends nobody I've talked to really knows which model code is in the mustang, but either way the built 7.5 rear end is going to be either 16% stronger or 5% weaker than a built 8.8 rear end, based on the Ford's strength ratings of the parts that go into the 30 or so rear ends that Ford makes.

Here's the shocker though, you can build a 7.5 rear end with a Detroit True Track and the gears of your choice for about the same price as buying a 8.8 rear end installed, meaning about $1000.

This means that for a v6 like one of my cars is. A built 7.5 rear end will be better in every measurable and conceivable way. While it's a mystery whether or not a built 7.5 will be 16% better or 5% worse than an equally built 8.8 due to the unknown quality of the remaining Ford parts, it's no mystery at all that the 7.5 is the way to go for the v6.

I may put a built 7.5 on my barley modified DD if I do an FI on it, but the only issue to me would be that it doesn't support a lot of the watts link designs out there.

illin

I totally agree with your statement, but the cost is a hair off. I just ran all the numbers (a few months ago) and wound up at $1100 and change installed (with a True Track).

The problem is that there are some unknowns as you may or may not get a whine free install. There seems to be a crap shoot with gear installs.

The GT takeoff is a known and safe bet. For me, it was $820 installed, so for $300 less, I got a sure bet that gives me everything I need.

Had the costs been equal...I will still would have went with the 8.8 simply for the safety factor...but the $300 savings made it a no-brainer. At least in my opinion...

Sancho805

my total came to about 750 for my 7.5 upgrade. the cheapest i was going to get a 8.8 takeoff to my door was for about 975 with shipping at the time. sure i guess i could have searched for a takeoff from a private seller but it would have become a waiting game for an unsure part. all this 8.8 or nothing is actually through one perspective... from those who are present or future track goers. if you add on big power, sure the seemingly logical way to go is a 8.8 with gears of your choice but again, its only really significant if you beat it at the track or are just a hard driver on a daily basis. i too plan on an X in the future but i will only swap my rear end if ACTUAL breakage is occurring with those who have 7.5's and F/I. only people i read of broken 7.5's are again those who were pounding at the track. there is no rule saying that you have to make your car put in work at the track if you go F/I.

tx_zstang

The 8.8 will bolt up in place of your 7.5. The brakes, everything, will swap right over.
The only thing you have to change is the pinion flange; the ones on the 8.8 are different than the 7.5; you can get the flange for around $30.

Make sure if you get a 8.8 from a junkyard that it's for a 2005 and later!

The Razor

Does anyone know if I'd get better 1/4 mile results from the (8.8) 3.5 gear ratio than a 3.73? I have a stock manual transmission in my 05 V6, and I heard the 3.73 will actually yeild a higher 1/4 mile time because I'll have to shift earlier/ more often.
Anyone know if this is bunk?

cvz_finezt

it's not that you shift earlier, but u car will get into it's power band quicker. the steeper the gears the better ur acceleration, but the trade off is a loss of MPG and top speed

rygenstormlocke

A trutrac in a 7.5 will meet the needs of most applications. I went with an 8.8 cause I wanted the CHE axle brace.