View Poll Results: How Awesome will be car be when it receives the upgrades below?
Thine chariot will surpass all expectations
3
9.09%
I reckon it will beget much reckoning
9
27.27%
While improved, this sixer won't heat up the trail of a bone stock GT, ever.
18
54.55%
It will suck so badly you will regret it until you die a dusty fart-induced death.
3
9.09%
Voters: 33. You may not vote on this poll
Hey there everybuddy!! Here is my 2010 V6 Project description
06-21-2009, 01:41 AM
#1
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: IL
Posts: 77
Hey there everybuddy!! Here is my 2010 V6 Project description
Hey there peoples. This is my first post here. I am a new 2010 owner driving the Stang in the beautiful all new Kona Blue.
I'm here using the boards to map out my upgrades to obtain advice, and most importantly provide referenced advice for future owners of the 2010 Mustang. The poor babe is in the shop right now cause I got her in a minor fender bender - which I may decide to blog about in a separate thread.. after I find my way around and read up on some of the upgrades.
Anyway... I'm looking to get ideas from others who have done similar upgrades or can tell me ways to get the most out of the experience before or after the install.
Here are the upgrades I will have completed within the next month or two:
Performance:
K&N drop-in replacement air filter
K&N oil filter
Pypes shorty headers
Pypes axleback exhaust
Ford Racing T-lok Limited slip differential
Motive Performance 3.73 gears
Visual:
Sport Lowering kit (1", 1.25"), 5% Limo tint on back three windows.
Chassis reinforcement and suspension:
Front arm relocation kit, bump steer kit
Steeda "Stop the hop" control arms with central third link
3 point frame rail & torque box braces
Steeda Strut tower brace
G-Trac brace
Panhard rod,
Other:
Sony Xplod "1000W" running two 12"s, Pioneer and Xplod, respectively.
I'm here using the boards to map out my upgrades to obtain advice, and most importantly provide referenced advice for future owners of the 2010 Mustang. The poor babe is in the shop right now cause I got her in a minor fender bender - which I may decide to blog about in a separate thread.. after I find my way around and read up on some of the upgrades.
Anyway... I'm looking to get ideas from others who have done similar upgrades or can tell me ways to get the most out of the experience before or after the install.
Here are the upgrades I will have completed within the next month or two:
Performance:
K&N drop-in replacement air filter
K&N oil filter
Pypes shorty headers
Pypes axleback exhaust
Ford Racing T-lok Limited slip differential
Motive Performance 3.73 gears
Visual:
Sport Lowering kit (1", 1.25"), 5% Limo tint on back three windows.
Chassis reinforcement and suspension:
Front arm relocation kit, bump steer kit
Steeda "Stop the hop" control arms with central third link
3 point frame rail & torque box braces
Steeda Strut tower brace
G-Trac brace
Panhard rod,
Other:
Sony Xplod "1000W" running two 12"s, Pioneer and Xplod, respectively.
06-21-2009, 09:09 AM
#3
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: IL
Posts: 77
That's how the cookie crumbles
Indeed. I was pulling out of the ATM lane at the bank, and right after reversing too little, I tried to curve around into the lane to the left, and saw I folded over just below my passenger side intrusion rod on the barrier, pretty poignantly and replaced the whole shell. Just two more days until it's ready...
06-21-2009, 07:13 PM
#5
Moderator
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Michigan again!
Posts: 8,579
Sounds like you have some good plans for the new Pony. Too bad about the scrape though on the new car.
And as far as the V6 haters - don't pay any attentiont to them. There are a lot of us V6ers who can give them a good run at the track and several who can leave them behind.
Besides, on the 2010 the V6 has a much better looking front bumper than the GT.
And as far as the V6 haters - don't pay any attentiont to them. There are a lot of us V6ers who can give them a good run at the track and several who can leave them behind.
Besides, on the 2010 the V6 has a much better looking front bumper than the GT.
07-04-2009, 06:17 PM
#6
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: IL
Posts: 77
SO, almost all of the parts from Steeda have arrived, but unfortunately since they don't ask you to specify which car (V6 or V8) you have for the Stage 1 suspension pack, they threw in a GT strut tower brace, so I will have to exchange that.
In much more serious news, I am now unable to drive my car over 60 miles an hour. Yep - the body shop, while ordering an entirely new shell and blending it in flush with the stock paint, has somehow managed to fudge up the door, because it makes an incessant creak that is about as loud as drizzling rain, whenever I go above 60 mph.
I took it back to the body shop, where the manager assured me it was "fine combed" and the two of them (mechanic and manager) couldn't hear a thing on the interstate, neither before NOR after "tightening all the bolts". You bet I'll be back and kindly accosting him Monday morning. Wish me luck and thanks for voting!
In much more serious news, I am now unable to drive my car over 60 miles an hour. Yep - the body shop, while ordering an entirely new shell and blending it in flush with the stock paint, has somehow managed to fudge up the door, because it makes an incessant creak that is about as loud as drizzling rain, whenever I go above 60 mph.
I took it back to the body shop, where the manager assured me it was "fine combed" and the two of them (mechanic and manager) couldn't hear a thing on the interstate, neither before NOR after "tightening all the bolts". You bet I'll be back and kindly accosting him Monday morning. Wish me luck and thanks for voting!
07-04-2009, 06:39 PM
#7
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: IL
Posts: 77
I wanted to open discussion on what I'm likely to notice so that I'm expecting realistic outcomes with each component.
K&N drop-in replacement air filter.
-I don't know about your experiences with CAIs or SRIs, but something tells me to wait on development of a good 2010 CAI and make sure it doesn't kill your launch in the low range. I thought the torque of the Stang should overcome anything the intake robs at takeoff and low RPM, but since it takes longer for the air to reach the manifold in the case of a CAI, maybe the K&N is adequate and even better by some standards. I've read that its stitching pattern creates a whistling sound - cool!
K&N oil filter
-Keep the nasty petroleum deposits from griming up and blackening the insides of my pipes.
Pypes shorty headers
-That 70s sort of feel to the drive added. Better passage of air to the earth beneath the ride, creating more ideal backpressure and speeding up the flow to the
Pypes axleback exhaust
-Which, while just an axleback, should be fine considering the stock downpipe is what, like 2.5" already? I mean, it was designed for a 4.0L engine. The sound should be Plenty for me, and I like my backpressure, thank you. Just want to lessen restrictiveness and improve throttle sound.
Ford Racing T-lok Limited slip differential
-All the fun of turning off traction control, but even more control over power distribution ATW, which is invaluable as I drive an automatic and can't always apply responsive torque as well, until I get the...
Motive Performance 3.73 gears installed!
-These, I have also heard, will improve my launch. The ratio will not be modified so heavily that it will monkey up my highway driving, like 5:something would. The added Pep is desirable and will negate the effects of backpressure lost to the axleback.
Visual:
Sport Lowering kit (1", 1.25")
-This will lower my ride toward the smaller of amounts, but it will look hotter and handle honestly a lot more ballingly.
5% Limo tint on back three windows.
-Unfortunately in IL, you cannot even legally touch the front windows or windshield. This will keep out the sun and wondering eyes.
Chassis reinforcement and suspension:
Front arm relocation kit,
-I have heard this will lower my front end another half inch. Can anyone verify this? I bought it after I read it was necessary to maintain good handling after lowering your car.
Bump steer kit
-I was sold on this after reading that this will put more control in my hands without regulating horsepower to the wheels. Can anyone describe the parts this will actually replace, in case the mechanic is not up on the jargon?
Steeda "Stop the hop" control arms with central third link
-Since I was pulled over by a Poe for squealing my tires at a turn just a few days ago, this is self explanatory.
3 point frame rail & torque box braces
-Better rigidity improves handling into the turns = better acceleration out of the turns = more V8 feel.
Steeda Strut tower brace
-Better stability under tight steering.
G-Trac brace
-Can someone explain this one to me? Is it related to keeping the rear axle "in track" so the wheels have a better footing to power her?
Panhard rod, -I know there is a stock one in there already, but this will stiffen it. Again, not sure about this one's exact function either.
K&N drop-in replacement air filter.
-I don't know about your experiences with CAIs or SRIs, but something tells me to wait on development of a good 2010 CAI and make sure it doesn't kill your launch in the low range. I thought the torque of the Stang should overcome anything the intake robs at takeoff and low RPM, but since it takes longer for the air to reach the manifold in the case of a CAI, maybe the K&N is adequate and even better by some standards. I've read that its stitching pattern creates a whistling sound - cool!
K&N oil filter
-Keep the nasty petroleum deposits from griming up and blackening the insides of my pipes.
Pypes shorty headers
-That 70s sort of feel to the drive added. Better passage of air to the earth beneath the ride, creating more ideal backpressure and speeding up the flow to the
Pypes axleback exhaust
-Which, while just an axleback, should be fine considering the stock downpipe is what, like 2.5" already? I mean, it was designed for a 4.0L engine. The sound should be Plenty for me, and I like my backpressure, thank you. Just want to lessen restrictiveness and improve throttle sound.
Ford Racing T-lok Limited slip differential
-All the fun of turning off traction control, but even more control over power distribution ATW, which is invaluable as I drive an automatic and can't always apply responsive torque as well, until I get the...
Motive Performance 3.73 gears installed!
-These, I have also heard, will improve my launch. The ratio will not be modified so heavily that it will monkey up my highway driving, like 5:something would. The added Pep is desirable and will negate the effects of backpressure lost to the axleback.
Visual:
Sport Lowering kit (1", 1.25")
-This will lower my ride toward the smaller of amounts, but it will look hotter and handle honestly a lot more ballingly.
5% Limo tint on back three windows.
-Unfortunately in IL, you cannot even legally touch the front windows or windshield. This will keep out the sun and wondering eyes.
Chassis reinforcement and suspension:
Front arm relocation kit,
-I have heard this will lower my front end another half inch. Can anyone verify this? I bought it after I read it was necessary to maintain good handling after lowering your car.
Bump steer kit
-I was sold on this after reading that this will put more control in my hands without regulating horsepower to the wheels. Can anyone describe the parts this will actually replace, in case the mechanic is not up on the jargon?
Steeda "Stop the hop" control arms with central third link
-Since I was pulled over by a Poe for squealing my tires at a turn just a few days ago, this is self explanatory.
3 point frame rail & torque box braces
-Better rigidity improves handling into the turns = better acceleration out of the turns = more V8 feel.
Steeda Strut tower brace
-Better stability under tight steering.
G-Trac brace
-Can someone explain this one to me? Is it related to keeping the rear axle "in track" so the wheels have a better footing to power her?
Panhard rod, -I know there is a stock one in there already, but this will stiffen it. Again, not sure about this one's exact function either.
07-05-2009, 04:41 AM
#9
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 1,112
Performance:
K&N drop-in replacement air filter
K&N oil filter
I say ditch these top two and get a tunable Cold Air Intake, like JLT or C&L. The difference between them in phenomenal. But, you have to buy an Xcal or Diablo Tuner.
Pypes shorty headers
Posters on this forum say you don't get much gain with a N/A setup, since our headers are pretty free flowing. Also, the eBay headers which are significantly cheaper show similar gain to the more pricey BBK or Pypes Headers
Pypes axleback exhaust
Good Axleback for the buck, I have the Street-Pro and I love it.
Ford Racing T-lok Limited slip differential
One of the best mods you can do, one wheel burnouts/traction is no fun. Just be careful in rain/snow.
Motive Performance 3.73 gears
If I were you, I'd get the FRPP gears because posters on this forum had a bad experience with motive gears (aka they whine). The shop you getting the gears installed in is more important, but I hear Motive gears are risky.
Visual:
Sport Lowering kit (1", 1.25"), 5% Limo tint on back three windows.
If I were you, I'd save my money with this when you can get some new Shocks/Struts. The stock dampers aren't made for a lowered ride, so it will probably be bouncy and uncomfortable. Tokico HP shocks are the best/cheapest route
Chassis reinforcement and suspension:
Front arm relocation kit
Haven't heard about this one, but if you are going to already lower the car, no need for slamming it on the ground. You will get clearance issues. If Steeda claims if its for track use, it will be useless on the streets.
bump steer kit
I don't really think this is need either to be honest, unless your car is slammed, plus you will have a great increase of tire wear.
Steeda "Stop the hop" control arms with central third link
Very good mod to have when increasing power.
3 point frame rail & torque box braces
Well I don't know how the Sway bars are on the newer V6's, but a pair of Front/Rear sway bars off a GT with Poly bushings improved the rigidity of the car exponentiously. Plus, that panhard bar will help too. No need to overkill on this one.
Steeda Strut tower brace
I've made a thread about this, and researched this. From what I gather, unless you have the really expensive ones that are bolted on all 4 points on each side, this is more of a engine appearance mod.
G-Trac brace
No idea about this one/
Panhard rod,
This is to make sure the axle doesn't move forward or to the side, basically only allows it to move up and down. Basically just removes the sideways movement of the axle.
K&N drop-in replacement air filter
K&N oil filter
I say ditch these top two and get a tunable Cold Air Intake, like JLT or C&L. The difference between them in phenomenal. But, you have to buy an Xcal or Diablo Tuner.
Pypes shorty headers
Posters on this forum say you don't get much gain with a N/A setup, since our headers are pretty free flowing. Also, the eBay headers which are significantly cheaper show similar gain to the more pricey BBK or Pypes Headers
Pypes axleback exhaust
Good Axleback for the buck, I have the Street-Pro and I love it.
Ford Racing T-lok Limited slip differential
One of the best mods you can do, one wheel burnouts/traction is no fun. Just be careful in rain/snow.
Motive Performance 3.73 gears
If I were you, I'd get the FRPP gears because posters on this forum had a bad experience with motive gears (aka they whine). The shop you getting the gears installed in is more important, but I hear Motive gears are risky.
Visual:
Sport Lowering kit (1", 1.25"), 5% Limo tint on back three windows.
If I were you, I'd save my money with this when you can get some new Shocks/Struts. The stock dampers aren't made for a lowered ride, so it will probably be bouncy and uncomfortable. Tokico HP shocks are the best/cheapest route
Chassis reinforcement and suspension:
Front arm relocation kit
Haven't heard about this one, but if you are going to already lower the car, no need for slamming it on the ground. You will get clearance issues. If Steeda claims if its for track use, it will be useless on the streets.
bump steer kit
I don't really think this is need either to be honest, unless your car is slammed, plus you will have a great increase of tire wear.
Steeda "Stop the hop" control arms with central third link
Very good mod to have when increasing power.
3 point frame rail & torque box braces
Well I don't know how the Sway bars are on the newer V6's, but a pair of Front/Rear sway bars off a GT with Poly bushings improved the rigidity of the car exponentiously. Plus, that panhard bar will help too. No need to overkill on this one.
Steeda Strut tower brace
I've made a thread about this, and researched this. From what I gather, unless you have the really expensive ones that are bolted on all 4 points on each side, this is more of a engine appearance mod.
G-Trac brace
No idea about this one/
Panhard rod,
This is to make sure the axle doesn't move forward or to the side, basically only allows it to move up and down. Basically just removes the sideways movement of the axle.
Last edited by Avalanch3; 07-05-2009 at 07:49 AM.
07-05-2009, 07:10 AM
#10
My opinion would be to forego the frame rail and torque box brace. The chassis on these cars is pretty darn stiff as-is, and you're adding needless weight imho
CHE's K-member brace is better than Steeda's G-trac (ties into 4 points rather than two, and you can add torque limiters for the engine/transmission as an option)
I'd skip the panhard and spend the extra coin for a Watts link setup for the rear like the Fays2. This is one on the BEST handling mods you can do for these cars
CHE's K-member brace is better than Steeda's G-trac (ties into 4 points rather than two, and you can add torque limiters for the engine/transmission as an option)
I'd skip the panhard and spend the extra coin for a Watts link setup for the rear like the Fays2. This is one on the BEST handling mods you can do for these cars