Big Job ahead, 8.8 Axle & suspension
02-18-2010, 11:04 PM
#11
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: colorado
Posts: 205
Josh- I went with aftermarket springs/shock. I don't think the GT Take-off stuff will give you a much better ride or handeling. If you want to swap go aftermarket. The weight difference isn't that great. Check with Sam Strano in the suspension forum, he took care of alot of us and can explain what you need and why.
Laterrider- thanks for the nice words. I think I'll just use some engine spraypaint. If it can hold to high temps it should be fine on the rear.
I went with 3.73 gears.
Laterrider- thanks for the nice words. I think I'll just use some engine spraypaint. If it can hold to high temps it should be fine on the rear.
I went with 3.73 gears.
02-19-2010, 12:05 PM
#13
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Florida
Posts: 234
Cool man, enjoy!!! Don't forget we want pics when its done, but don't rush on account of us!!!
I'll be interested how you like it after the install.. I may have to add further suspension upgrades in the future..lol... seems like adding better sways just gets us started in making these cars handle better...
I'll be interested how you like it after the install.. I may have to add further suspension upgrades in the future..lol... seems like adding better sways just gets us started in making these cars handle better...
02-20-2010, 04:26 PM
#14
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: CA
Posts: 145
Progress....
Well I finally got some time and got the 7.5 off. Pretty strait forward, used a lot of PB blaster and lots of arm strength. I don't have air tools.
Nothing remarkable about this process, just unbolt and keep things organized. I had to take the panhard bar off to get enough room to access the UCA bolt. I did find that unbolting the UCA with the axle a low as it will go, provided the most room to get leverage on the wrench. Then jack it up as high as it could go made it easy to pull the bolt out and bring the axle down.
Unbolting the stock shocks from inside the trunk was a pain. It uses a 15mm nut, but you can't just turn it. The shocks spins internally so you need to use a crescent wrench (vicescrips probably would have been better) to provide opposite pressure as you turn the nut off.
Next I got the new KONI shock installed. Very easy, used the old nuts and rubber grommets from the OEM shocks. I used a little Teflon spray on the rubber to keep it squeak free. These bolted right on, no need for opposite pressure while tightening the upper nut.
Well I'll head back out and try to get the 8.8 up before nightfall. more pics to come!
Nothing remarkable about this process, just unbolt and keep things organized. I had to take the panhard bar off to get enough room to access the UCA bolt. I did find that unbolting the UCA with the axle a low as it will go, provided the most room to get leverage on the wrench. Then jack it up as high as it could go made it easy to pull the bolt out and bring the axle down.
Unbolting the stock shocks from inside the trunk was a pain. It uses a 15mm nut, but you can't just turn it. The shocks spins internally so you need to use a crescent wrench (vicescrips probably would have been better) to provide opposite pressure as you turn the nut off.
Next I got the new KONI shock installed. Very easy, used the old nuts and rubber grommets from the OEM shocks. I used a little Teflon spray on the rubber to keep it squeak free. These bolted right on, no need for opposite pressure while tightening the upper nut.
Well I'll head back out and try to get the 8.8 up before nightfall. more pics to come!
02-20-2010, 05:29 PM
#15
Cut & Paste Expert
Join Date: May 2007
Location: NW Arkansas
Posts: 13,322
You need the V6 pinion flange.
If swapping flanges yourself,
you need a new crush sleeve.
02-20-2010, 06:32 PM
#16
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: WI
Posts: 773
And does it come with gear lube in it already?
02-20-2010, 08:03 PM
#18
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: CA
Posts: 145
Well I'm done for the night, got everything bolted back on. No problems, took a while to get the UCA bolted on, I slowly worked the jack up, while shimming the front flange to keep it level.
I got stuck on the brakes! I rented the caliper tool from Autozone, but I can't get the pistons to budge. Anyone have any tips on this? The pistons are sticking out by 2cm and I can't get them back.
Josh - I think it's closer to 230lbs. Mine was delivered on a pallet and shipping weight was 250. I had a friend help me get it into my truck, I was able to slowly unload it by myself at home. Took some maneuvering and careful floor-jack action.
Also it comes with fluid in the differential.
157db - your right about the flange swap. In my case I bought the axle with the flange already installed, so it was a strait swap for me.
I got stuck on the brakes! I rented the caliper tool from Autozone, but I can't get the pistons to budge. Anyone have any tips on this? The pistons are sticking out by 2cm and I can't get them back.
Josh - I think it's closer to 230lbs. Mine was delivered on a pallet and shipping weight was 250. I had a friend help me get it into my truck, I was able to slowly unload it by myself at home. Took some maneuvering and careful floor-jack action.
Also it comes with fluid in the differential.
157db - your right about the flange swap. In my case I bought the axle with the flange already installed, so it was a strait swap for me.
