Car wont start
02-24-2011, 06:56 AM
#11
6th Gear Member
I suspect you have a battery issue. Do you know what was clicking? If the engine won't crank AND the battery terminals are on tight I'd suspect the battery. What's the terminal voltage, both with the ignition off and when you try to crank? If you still have the OE MotorCrap battery, you were living on borrowed time anyway.
02-24-2011, 09:46 AM
#12
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Acworth, GA
Posts: 3,666
Sounds like your battery maybe toast. I had the same clicking noise and my battery needed replaced. Take your battery to autozone/advanced autos/O'reilleys and get it tested.
Last edited by kevinmalec; 02-25-2011 at 08:48 AM.
02-24-2011, 10:15 AM
#13
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: California
Posts: 141
That clicking noise is almost certainly your starter solenoid. It's just not getting enough voltage. Do what others have said and test your battery voltage with a multimeter. IIRC, it should be around 12.7 volts if your battery is healthy while the car is not running. I would see if you could get a jump, assuming your volage is low. That should fix your issue.
02-24-2011, 01:20 PM
#14
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Colorado
Posts: 944
Put the wrench on the positive terminal and touch ground.
ooops, just fried myself.....
02-24-2011, 01:25 PM
#15
Gentleman's Relish
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: AZ
Posts: 13,090
some of the posts in this thread are just funny...
If it's the OEM battery it's probably toast (just a coincidence). most OEM batteris in the S197 don't last more than a couple years. Mine went out the first year. Relplaced it under warranty but also had it upgraded.
Anyways, Negative always gets disconnected first and reconnected last. Basic electronics 101 there.
Fast clicking means there's not enough current (amps) to close the circuit. Have you tried to jump it to see if it starts?
If it's the OEM battery it's probably toast (just a coincidence). most OEM batteris in the S197 don't last more than a couple years. Mine went out the first year. Relplaced it under warranty but also had it upgraded.
Anyways, Negative always gets disconnected first and reconnected last. Basic electronics 101 there.
Fast clicking means there's not enough current (amps) to close the circuit. Have you tried to jump it to see if it starts?
03-07-2011, 09:32 PM
#17
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Ohio
Posts: 19
I had the same problem a while ago. I left an interior light on overnight, and the car wouldn't start by the morning. It really ticked me off - the car has a massive battery that weighs about 40 pouds, but it cant keep a dim interior light on? A freaking D-cell could power the interior lights!
When I checked the battery, I discoved that most of the electrolyte cell things were completely dry. I poured water in them, waited about 10 minutes, and the car started without much fuss. It is well worth checking.
When I checked the battery, I discoved that most of the electrolyte cell things were completely dry. I poured water in them, waited about 10 minutes, and the car started without much fuss. It is well worth checking.
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