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Old 10-15-2015, 07:20 PM
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Old 10-05-2011, 02:55 PM   #1  
maxshuty
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Default Bleed brakes help

My new brake pads just cane in the mail. My old ones lasted me 80,000 and stil have life on them but i just think it's time for a new set, plus I've never changed brake fluid.
What brake fluid should I buy? Is there a better/worse brake fluid? I need something that is able to work in extremely cold MN winters (well below freezing).

Thanks!
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Old 10-05-2011, 03:04 PM   #2  
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I'm going to be doing a brake fluid change on Monday myself, I am going to use ford motorcraft brake fluid, friend of mine who use to work with NASA auto racing recommends it, as it is rather cheap and has a dry boiling point of over 500 degrees. He said some guys would use it in there Chevys.
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Old 10-06-2011, 04:58 PM   #3  
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Okay thanks!
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Old 10-06-2011, 06:49 PM   #4  
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I don't know much about brake fluid, but have some copypasta courtesy of Jazzer!

Quote:
Brake fluid: The brake fluid is what carries pressure from the brake pedal through the lines and applies pressure to the calipers to squeaze the rotors. Whenever anything is placed under physical "pressure", it will get hot and your braking system is no different. When the brakes are applied, based on how hard, the duration and the time elapsed between thier previous use, this heat can build up. When the heat builds above the boiling point of the fluid, it will begin to vaporize. While the fluid itself is NOT compressable, this vapor IS and where some of the brake fade issues come into play. The OEM fluid has a much lower boiling point than what is currently available and why it is on my list of upgrades for your braking system. There is no fluid that will NEVER reach such a point, but if you install a premium fluid, such as DOT5.1> or race quality, you should NEVER reach it. If you DO reach such a temp and your on the street... your doing something HORRIBLY wrong

Dry* boiling point of common fluids:
DOT3 ~ 401
DOT4 ~ 446
DOT5.1 ~ 518
Wilwood High-Temp ~ 570
Brembo LCF 600 ~ 601
*wet boiling point is MUCH lower, as fluid absorbs moisture over time. For this, and other reasons, it should be replaced every 2 years to maintain consistant performance and less wear on internal parts of braking system. There is VERY little cost difference between these fluids and why I always say just get the good stuff

General information reguarding brake fluids:
... DOT5 is a silicon based fluid and not to be used in your Mustang. The seals were not designed for it and can fail over time.
... Brake fluids dry boiling point is more important then wet boiling point when used in a racing brake system.
... Passenger cars very rarely will undergo a brake fluid change making the wet boiling point more important.
... Using racing brake fluid will increase performance of the braking system.
... Never reuse fluid or mix types or brands of brake fluid.
... If fluid remains in container be sure to tightly seal and do not store for long periods of time.
... Purge system (complete drain) and replace fluid often.
... Immediately replace master cylinder reservoir cap following any maintenance.
... Some info is not applicable to open-track race cars, as different issues come into play.

Below list provided by "The ultimate brake fluid comparison chart":



Arranged by Dry boiling point:

* DRY:401F -- WET:284F --- DOT3 MINIMUM (GLYCOL BASE)
* DRY:446F -- WET:311F --- DOT4 MINIMUM (GLYCOL BASE)
* DRY:500F -- WET:356F --- DOT5 MINIMUM (SILICONE BASE)
* DRY:500F -- WET:356F --- DOT5.1 MINIMUM (GLYCOL BASE)
* DRY:527F -- WET:302F --- AP RACING 551 ($12.95/0.5L OR 16.9 OZ)
* DRY:527F -- WET:347F --- VALVOLINE SYNPOWER DOT3 & DOT4
* DRY:536F -- WET:392F --- ATE SUPERBLUE/TYP200 ($9.95/1L)
* DRY:543F -- WET:349F --- Endless The truth DOT 4 ($35/1L)
* DRY:550F -- WET:284F --- PERFORMANCE Friction Z rated ($6.27/16 OZ)
* DRY:550F -- WET:284F --- FORD HEAVY DUTY DOT 3 ($4/12 OZ)
* DRY:570F -- WET:284F --- WILWOOD 570 ($5.65/12 OZ)
* DRY:572F -- WET:284F --- US Brake/AFCO Racing 570 Gold
* DRY:572F -- WET:421F --- US Brake/AFCO Racing Ultra HTX
* DRY:577F -- WET:300F --- Brake Man
* DRY:585F -- WET:421F --- Earl's Hypertemp 421
* DRY:590F -- WET:410F --- AP RACING Super 600 ($16.95/0.5L OR 16.9 OZ)
* DRY:593F -- WET:420F --- MOTUL RBF600 ($12.95/0.5L OR 16.9 OZ)
* DRY:590F -- WET:518F --- CASTROL SRF ($69.00/1L 0R 33.8 OZ)
* DRY:601F -- WET:399F --- BREMBO LCF 600 PLUS ($26.75/0.5L OR 16.9 OZ)
* DRY:610F -- WET:421F --- NEO SYNTHETICS SUPER DOT 610($11.95/12 OZ)
* DRY:610F -- WET:421F --- PROSPEED GS610 ($39.95/16 OZ)
* DRY:617F -- WET:413F --- Endless RF-450 ($45/1L)
* DRY:620F -- WET:425F --- COBALT SUPER XRF [seem to no longer be available]
* DRY:622F -- WET:424F --- Endless RF-650
* DRY:626F -- WET:417F --- WILWOOD EXP 600 ($16.95/0.5L 16.9 OZ)

Arranged by wet boiling point:

* DRY:401F -- WET:284F --- DOT3 MINIMUM
* DRY:550F -- WET:284F --- PERFORMANCE Friction Z rated
* DRY:550F -- WET:284F --- FORD HEAVY DUTY DOT 3
* DRY:570F -- WET:284F --- WILWOOD 570
* DRY:572F -- WET:284F --- US Brake / AFCO Racing 570 Gold
* DRY:577F -- WET:300F --- Brake Man
* DRY:527F -- WET:302F --- AP RACING 551
* DRY:446F -- WET:311F --- DOT4 MINIMUM
* DRY:527F -- WET:347F --- VALVOLINE SYNPOWER DOT3 & DOT4
* DRY:543F -- WET:349F --- Endless The truth DOT 4
* DRY:500F -- WET:356F --- DOT5.1 MINIMUM (GLYCOL BASE)
* DRY:536F -- WET:392F --- ATE SUPERBLUE/TYP200
* DRY:601F -- WET:399F --- BREMBO LCF 600 PLUS
* DRY:590F -- WET:410F --- AP RACING Super 600
* DRY:617F -- WET:413F --- Endless RF-450
* DRY:626F -- WET:417F --- WILWOOD EXP 600
* DRY:572F -- WET:421F --- US Brake/AFCO Racing Ultra HTX
* DRY:585F -- WET:421F --- Earl's Hypertemp 421
* DRY:593F -- WET:420F --- MOTUL RBF600
* DRY:610F -- WET:421F --- NEO SYNTHETICS SUPER DOT 610
* DRY:610F -- WET:421F --- PROSPEED GS610
* DRY:622F -- WET:424F --- Endless RF-650
* DRY:620F -- WET:425F --- COBALT SUPER XRF [seem to no longer be available]
* DRY:590F -- WET:518F --- CASTROL SRF
Rest of the article here
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Old 10-08-2011, 10:20 AM   #5  
157dB
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maxshuty View Post
What brake fluid should I buy? Is there a better/worse brake fluid?
I need something that is able to work in extremely cold MN winters
(well below freezing).

Thanks!
Brake fluid does not freeze unless it is saturated with moisture.
Get some Ford MotorCraft and keep it tightly closed until you
use it as it absorbs moisture out of the air like crazy fast.
A nice DRY static laden day is the best for doing a full on
brake fluid replacement job. Maybe change out your OEM rubber
brake lines while you have the system down for a full bleed out?
Maybe teflon braided lines for the ultimate tight pedal feel?
80K on those old tired rubber OEM lines is not a so a good a
for a you in a panic stopping dilemma.
BTW, Dispose of the old fluid properly...
And be sure to bed those new pads properly to get all
the performance you paid for out of them.
And DA the rotor surfaces as well to help with the pad bedding
process. Funny you dont mention what brand/type of pad
the maily manny brought you, Maxxy. :?)
I guess I will have to search your posts to figure that one out?
OK, stock pads.

Last edited by 157dB; 10-08-2011 at 10:24 AM.
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