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Door Panel Leather Sagging - **FIX**

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Old 06-19-2013, 07:12 PM
  #161  
pinn
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When I bought my 06 the front inserts were already ripped out. For $300 bucks I had a local upholstery shop do the front door inserts and the rear inserts to match. I'll get some pictures once it stops raining here.

Edit: The shop provided upgraded material in the price since mine were missing when I bought the car.

Last edited by pinn; 06-20-2013 at 07:29 AM.
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Old 06-20-2013, 01:09 AM
  #162  
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Originally Posted by pinn
When I bought my 06 the front inserts were already ripped out. For $300 bucks I had a local upholstery shop do the front door inserts and the rear inserts to match. I'll get some pictures once it stops raining here.
Pinn, I hear you and I would do that, but I'm trying to save my money for things I really want to do to the car. I've only had it about a month so I have only begun to tinker. In looking around I found I could get a pair of used door panels, (same color as mine) from the bone yard for around $ 225. But that is the cost of a CAI for me. I need to save wherever I can so I can put money towards the mods I really want, (Demon coil pack, CAI, new throttle body, ITX tuner, slotted and drilled rotors, Ram Air hood, new headers, dual exhaust, limited slip differential) and if I ever get comfortable with the amount of work involved a new cam and forged pistons so I can put on a nice supercharger. Of course I have to run these things by my accountant, (aka wife) so anything I can do myself is money I can put towards something else I want. lol

Gordon
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Old 06-30-2013, 06:23 PM
  #163  
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Thanks for this! My leather decided to drop from the top. They're good now, I kind o wish there was a way to get the foaminess back, but at least it looks better and my arm isn't catching on it anymore...
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Old 07-04-2013, 03:07 PM
  #164  
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Just did my passenger side following the op's method...
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Old 07-07-2013, 02:49 AM
  #165  
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I went out of town and left my 2008 mustang in the Texas sun. I came back a week later in horror to find the door leather falling off on both sides. From what I've seen in this thread, this seems to happen to these things at about 4 years. Sad that Ford has done nothing about it.

Anyway, I tried the fix on the passenger side and ended up with a few bubbles when I was finished. When I press them down they go away for a few seconds and slowly reappear. I'll wait until tomorrow to see if they'll stay down once the cement cures some more. If all turns out well, time to do the drivers side.

Thanks for the post. It's still useful all these years later. The mustang door leather plague--I guess another year or two will tell if this is still an issue with the 2010+ mustangs.
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Old 07-07-2013, 06:02 AM
  #166  
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Hmmm... if you still have issues with bubbles, try making a pinhole as close to the center of the bubble as you can... so that the trapped air can escape. Should help.
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Old 07-07-2013, 05:37 PM
  #167  
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Originally Posted by Boneman
Hmmm... if you still have issues with bubbles, try making a pinhole as close to the center of the bubble as you can... so that the trapped air can escape. Should help.
Thanks for the tip but I smoothed them out again after a few hours and they seem to be gone now though there are a few ripples in the leather if you look closely under the right light. Same issue on the drivers side, where I made sure to use a generous amount of cement. I'm waiting a little while to smooth out the bubbles on the drivers side but I'm not sure what I did wrong. I let it cure for 15 mins in 90 degree heat so that should have been enough but maybe it needed to cure longer.

Perhaps I'm just being picky and this is how everyone else's turned out (ie with the ripples) but for the repair cost I'll take it.
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Old 07-07-2013, 08:22 PM
  #168  
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maybe we can assume that the 15 minute curing period as recommended by the product manufacturer is more of a minimum time frame....maybe after applying a generous amount of contact cement to the surfaces that are to be bonded we can adjust the curing period to 30-40 minutes that way we are 100% sure it is completely cured....if i can remember correctly way way back when i did this, i waited 30 minutes for it to sure...the 15 minute time came from the instructions on the can...later on in the day after doing this i had a little separation and then possible a smidge the next morning but after using a cloth in hand to smooth it out from the center of the bulge towards the outside, like u would do air under window tint, i never had another problem with it...gl
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Old 07-07-2013, 08:24 PM
  #169  
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Originally Posted by pascal
A DIY can go a long way...
and this reply was posted 8/9/09 and today is 7/7/13 LOL!

so true...
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Old 07-09-2013, 11:37 AM
  #170  
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Originally Posted by 0NF1R
maybe we can assume that the 15 minute curing period as recommended by the product manufacturer is more of a minimum time frame....maybe after applying a generous amount of contact cement to the surfaces that are to be bonded we can adjust the curing period to 30-40 minutes that way we are 100% sure it is completely cured....if i can remember correctly way way back when i did this, i waited 30 minutes for it to sure...the 15 minute time came from the instructions on the can...later on in the day after doing this i had a little separation and then possible a smidge the next morning but after using a cloth in hand to smooth it out from the center of the bulge towards the outside, like u would do air under window tint, i never had another problem with it...gl
A little more curing time might have avoided the bubbles but after smoothing them out a few times, over the 12 hours after the repair, it's looking pretty good. Wouldn't be able to tell it wasn't stock unless you knew what you were looking for so all is good. The bubbles were a little scary at first (thought I ruined my door) but now anyone who does this and ends up with bubbles, smooth them out a few times and it'll turn out fine.
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