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Coast Driveline 1-piece aluminum driveshaft install (w/pics)

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Old 01-28-2011, 12:29 PM   #41
Doogie65
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Found one at Snap-on before swapping my PH DS and it worked great! I will try to find the p/n and link
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Old 01-28-2011, 12:33 PM   #42
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I keep receipts for everything and found what you need... Snap-on p/n BFCRM12A
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Old 01-28-2011, 12:48 PM   #43
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Ah, thanks Doogie. Actually I just scoured Snap-On's website and picked up this one

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....store&tool=all

Hope its the one I need. 12mm 12point just not the ratcheting type. I'm amazed the ratcheting type worked with the amount of space required. I couldn't get anything I had over that flare.
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Old 01-28-2011, 01:08 PM   #44
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Curious why you went with that one as it more expensive and the one I linked is ratcheting?
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Old 01-28-2011, 01:13 PM   #45
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It has the open end for additional clearance. It's worth the extra 10 bucks to know next time I crawl up under the car I'll have the right tool. I guess if I ever need it for something with tight clearance around the head it will work for that as well.
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Old 05-24-2011, 10:43 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TacoBill View Post
Pinion Angle
With the driveshaft removed, and if your car is lowered, use an angle gauge to determine what your pinion angle is.
With the car positioned at the same angle as it is on the ground (1/2" forward rake for me with the Steeda Ultralite springs), I jacked the rear pumpkin to the desired height in relation to the front, loading the rear suspension.

Front transmission output flange measured at -3.0 degrees.
Rear pinion flange measured -1 degrees.

If I'm correct, my pinion angle is -2 degrees in relation to the front.
I've been told that Ford's spec on the pinion angle is between -2.75 and -3.0 degrees.

TacoBill,

First of all, very nice write-up.

I am 50% done installing my coast driveshaft...and this thread has been extremely helpful. THANK YOU!!!!

I want to help clarify pinion angle, as nobody seems to understand it, and even fewer can explain it. I don't even know if I can explain it without pictures, but I will try. (I will add pics / drawings if necessary)

If your measurements are correct, your pinion angle would actually be at -4 degrees in relation to the front...which is excessive. A proper target according to BMR and Steeda is to have the rear pinion flange at minus 1 to minus 2 degrees...with 1.5 being a nice compromise for a street car and -2 being good for drag racing. Coast, on the other hand, says to set them perfectly parallel. More on that in a few paragraphs.

Here is the skinny. On our cars, according to Coast, the engine / tranny are angled such that the tranny output flange is tilted downward roughly 2.7 degrees.

Imagine if you will for a moment that we LIFT the rear of the car so that the engine crankshaft (and transmission output flange) are perfectly parallel to earth, IE zero degrees of tilt. ...THEN we adjust our upper third link so that the pinion flange also had zero degrees of tilt, it would be parallel to earth...thus our pinion angle would be zero, correct?

Some more examples of ZERO pinion angle (which is what coast recommends...again, I'll discuss that in a moment):

If the tranny output flange was set to minus one degree, we would have to set the rear pinion flange to plus one degree...they would be perfectly parallel then...thus ZERO pinion angle.

If the tranny output flange was set to (-2) then we would have to put the rear pinion flange at (+2)...they would be parallel...again, zero pinion angle.

If the tranny output flange was at (-3) (Which was the case on your car, TacoBill) the rear pinion flange would have to be set at (+3) in order to have zero pinion angle (The Coast recommendation).

Let's discuss the Coast zero degree pinion angle recommendation and what Steeda and BMR say (Rear pinion (-1 to -2 with -1.5 being a great compromise): What happens is when we launch the car, the car "squats" in the rear...the rear pinion flange tilts up, and if you were to put a magnetic angle finder on the front tranny output flange, since the engine and front of the car are raising upward, the tranny output flange would tilt downward (in relation to earth).

If we were to run solid bushings for hard-core drag racing, we could get away with the coast drive-line recommendation of setting zero degrees pinion angle, since squat would be minimized.

However, most of us run polyurethane bushings (BMR calls them "Poly" and Steeda calls then "Urethane"...but it is all the same thing)...and those bushings flex just a little bit. Not as much as stock, but more than solid bushings.

Because of the polyurethane bushings, Steeda and BMR say we should set the rear pinion angle at (-1) to (-2) in relation to the front tranny output flange) so that when you do launch the car from a stand-still, and the suspension squats, the AMOUNT of squat is in that 1 to 2 degree range, and therefore when the driveline is under the MOST stress, the pinion angle is zero and all is parallel.

So, in your case TacoBill, if the front tranny output flange is sitting at (-3) (pointed downward toward ground) you would have to point the rear pinion UP to (+3) if you wanted ZERO pinion angle (remember, zero is parallel), point the rear pinion flange up to (+2) if you wanted (-1) degree of pinion angle, and point it to (+1) if you wanted (-2) degrees of pinion angle.

If you want precisely (-1.5 degrees) of pinion angle which is a good compromise between street and drag, you would have to set the rear to (+1.5 degrees)...again that is if your front tranny output flange is at (-3) degrees.

Whew...that is my best attempt at a textual description.

I found two links that were VERY helpful for me to understand this:

http://www.ssz28.com/tech/Pinionangle.html

The pics this guy drew are VERY helpful.

http://www.buickperformance.com/Pinion.htm

Again, Epic write-up, and many thanks! I'll add some pics from my install to this thread later if you guys don't mind...I have good shots of the parking brake bracket relocation as well as pics of my dealing with the reinforcement metal that hits the drive shaft if not dealt with correctly. Let me just say you can't just "pound it in with a punch" I had to get medieval with it and ended up cutting it with my air grinder...pics will explain.
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Last edited by DiMora; 05-24-2011 at 10:52 PM.
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Old 05-24-2011, 10:50 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TacoBill View Post
I haven't done it yet, but yes, the small center hump in the tunnel will need to be 'massaged' down a little bit.
Unfortunately, it doesn't "massage" easily.

I beat the living daylights out of it...BIG hammer (ball peen and flat end), various punches...AIR HAMMER...and finally said screw it and ground it off with my air grinder and then hit it with primer to prevent rust. I'll add pics in the next couple of days.
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Old 05-25-2011, 07:58 AM   #48
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jesus, I was thinking of putting a ds in mine, but after this write up forget it...whatta pita it seems...pinion angle calculations and direct bolt in don't go together...
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Old 05-25-2011, 12:20 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by highline View Post
jesus, I was thinking of putting a ds in mine, but after this write up forget it...whatta pita it seems...pinion angle calculations and direct bolt in don't go together...
No sh*t......."direct bolt in" my ***!
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Old 06-02-2012, 09:02 AM   #50
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help?

this is an awesome write up first off.
i have followed it closely and i am happy to say all has gone smoothly so far.

i have hit a snag i do not see addressed in your write up and was wondering if anyone can help..

i have everything unbolted form the original shaft.
the front has been separated from the transmission.
the rear will NOT separate form the pinion flange.

i am also working alone in about 13"=15" of space under the car.
how did you separate the rear of the shaft form the rear flange?

the rest is free i can move, wiggle spin, manipulate all of it. its laying on teh wood now..waiting for a solution.

any input would be GREATLY appreciated
!!
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Old 06-02-2012, 10:33 AM   #51
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i just spent another half hour under the car with PB blaster..a rubber mallet and a 16OZ carpenters hammer. 10 mins of rotation and soaking. 15 mins or rotating and bumping ith rubber hammer

finaly 4-5 taps and a roatation and another tap with the caprnters hammer and it poped out on its own!!!



half way there...



heating up here in orlando..trying to get out from under this car before i bake..

no garage to work in...

persistance, persuasion and some PB blaster.

thats the key.
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Old 06-02-2012, 11:09 AM   #52
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If i recall you have to drop the front first as there's a lip on the rear flange. Drop the front and then pull it forward to clear the flange lip.
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Old 06-02-2012, 11:12 AM   #53
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Replied from my phone before i saw you got it off. Sometimes you just have to get medieval with **** lol. Glad to hear you got it dropped.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Eman2112 View Post
i just spent another half hour under the car with PB blaster..a rubber mallet and a 16OZ carpenters hammer. 10 mins of rotation and soaking. 15 mins or rotating and bumping ith rubber hammer

finaly 4-5 taps and a roatation and another tap with the caprnters hammer and it poped out on its own!!!



half way there...



heating up here in orlando..trying to get out from under this car before i bake..

no garage to work in...

persistance, persuasion and some PB blaster.

thats the key.
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Old 06-02-2012, 11:12 AM
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