2005 - 2014 MustangsDiscussions on the latest S197 model Mustangs from Ford.
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This install was performed ona friend's2007 GT, 5-spd Manual.
This is the alternate (or primary, depending what view you have) method when installing a 1-pc driveshaft.
A 3.5" Shaftmasters 1-pc aluminum driveshaft with a replacement pinion flange was used for this installation.
This 'How-To' will only cover the removal and installation of the pinion flange only. The entire driveshaft install can be found here.
Note: This is how we performed the installation and is not meant to replace the Manufacturer's installation instructions or the Ford Service Manual, it is meant for reference only.
27mm socket (6-pt impact preferred)
1/2" drive ratchet
Harmonic balancer/gear puller
Threadlocker, red - High Strength
Torque wrench (up to 140 lbs-ft)
Apply penetrating oil on the pinion nut and let soak for a few minutes (we used PB Blaster).
Using the impact gun with the 27mm socket, remove the pinion nut.
Pinion nut removed. Set aside, will be re-used.
Get the new replacement pinion flange ready to install.
If you're fortunate, the stock pinion flange may simply pull out. No harm in giving this a quick try. If it does pull out, have the new flange ready to go.
The goal is to minimize gear oil loss when the stock flange is pulled out to when the new flange is installed.
If you need the assist of a gear puller, install it at this point.
Pictured is one type of puller which utilizes the factory driveshaft to flange bolts. The 3-jaw puller should work just as easliy.
Once the stock flange is loose and ready to come out, get the replacement flange ready to minimize oil loss.
Once the drive pinion seal is pressed into the case, no more oil should leak out.
Re-install the pinion nut and run down with a ratched to seat the pinion flange and drive pinion seal.
Note: Do not apply thread locker at this time.
Once seated, back off and remove the pinion nut and apply thread locker to the pinion thread, then re-install nut until tight.
Set torque wrench to 140 lbs-ft and torque the pinion nut.
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you forgot to check preloadand change the crush sleeve and check preload
Really not necessary on a low enough mileage car. I used the exact same method as bill when I installed my spydershaft and had no issues. (Only had 6K miles on the car.) The only thing I did differently was to replace the pinion nut rather than reuse it, but that was only because I prefer the threadlocker that comes on the factory nut.
Whipple-12psi 10 Rib Pulley Kit-McLeod RXT & Steel Flywheel-UPR Rod End LCAs, UCA, Spherical Bearing, Panhard Bar, K-member + Front Swaybar Delete-Metco LCA Relo Brackets-BMR Xtreme Anti Roll-Spydershaft-Race Star Wheels-MGW-PMP Line Locks-Stanghi O/R X-Odyssey 10 lb Battery-Moroso Separator-Eibach Front/CJ Rear Drag Springs-Strange Adjustable Shocks and Struts-MSD 2 Step-etc. 11.29@123 1.59 60'
DRAG RACE? ASK ME ABOUT MY UPR SUSPENSION.
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