motor parts are here!
05-15-2009, 10:41 AM
#24
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 1,111
05-15-2009, 02:13 PM
#25
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Gainesville, FL
Posts: 11,278
Looks like fun! I commend you for tackling it yourself. Most people can't believe I can change a clutch, brakes and install a blower myself and here you are building an engine in your kitchen!
You da man!
You da man!
05-15-2009, 04:40 PM
#27
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 463
I would love to do something like this in the future but again i practically know nothing about building an engine!! Even though when i was younger i would take whatever i could apart and put it back together cuz it was fun and i felt good after accomplishing it!!
But an engine is a little more expensive if i f**k sh*t up!! Maybe in the future, who knows!!
Good luck on the build ***** and post alot of pics of your progress just in case someone wants to have a crack at it themselves in the future!!
But an engine is a little more expensive if i f**k sh*t up!! Maybe in the future, who knows!!
Good luck on the build ***** and post alot of pics of your progress just in case someone wants to have a crack at it themselves in the future!!
05-15-2009, 09:23 PM
#28
5th Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Lakeland/Mulberry FL
Posts: 2,263
had to work late today so the most i got to was torquing the main studs all down, the crank is officially done.
i used arp stud kit 156-5802, bigger middle studs are torqued to 60 ft-lbs and the outter smaller studs are torqued to 22 ft lbs. after all the main studs are done, the side bolts go back in,im re-using the factory bolts,torqued to 30 ft-lbs and then rotated an additional 90 degrees.i followed the torquing instructions in the manual from the above post i made.between each sequence of torquing i used a in-lb torque wrench to spin the crank so i could see how tight things were getting,it would spin and never hit 25in-lbs,so as of now it spins real easy,manual says i should not be above 53in-lbs and im well below 25 right now.
end play is minimal,im well with in specs.
i dont plan on painting the engine or heads,it would just be a pain to keep clean,the factory aluminum is good for me,im debating painting the timing cover or getting it powder coated.
tomorrow im planning on doing the rings, getting the rods in and torqued down
i was quoted $600 to assemble just the shortblock and another $400 to put the heads on,so as long as it all goes well,i will have saved my self $1000 just for the assembly.Main reason for doing this one my self is mostly because the block is so new,every thing should still be in factory spec so as long as i can read i should be able to just follow the instructions.
i used arp stud kit 156-5802, bigger middle studs are torqued to 60 ft-lbs and the outter smaller studs are torqued to 22 ft lbs. after all the main studs are done, the side bolts go back in,im re-using the factory bolts,torqued to 30 ft-lbs and then rotated an additional 90 degrees.i followed the torquing instructions in the manual from the above post i made.between each sequence of torquing i used a in-lb torque wrench to spin the crank so i could see how tight things were getting,it would spin and never hit 25in-lbs,so as of now it spins real easy,manual says i should not be above 53in-lbs and im well below 25 right now.
end play is minimal,im well with in specs.
i dont plan on painting the engine or heads,it would just be a pain to keep clean,the factory aluminum is good for me,im debating painting the timing cover or getting it powder coated.
tomorrow im planning on doing the rings, getting the rods in and torqued down
i was quoted $600 to assemble just the shortblock and another $400 to put the heads on,so as long as it all goes well,i will have saved my self $1000 just for the assembly.Main reason for doing this one my self is mostly because the block is so new,every thing should still be in factory spec so as long as i can read i should be able to just follow the instructions.
