one eyed willy

So as most know i spent 8 months building my own turbo to produce 446hp @ 9PSI, spent roughly one week driving it and bending a rod on a 12.1 sprint down the 1/4 mile. That was in February.So after much debate on what to do i finally figured to build my own engine would be the most practical and affordable if i wanted to keep the turbo.Im planning to build it myself, im not a professional engine builder or anything but i dont see a whole lot i could screw up.

Im keeping stock bore, with stock bore pistons,stock crank and going with forged rods and pistons that will lower my comp. ratio to 9.1:1 for turbo.Ill try to post as much tech as i can to help out others who may want to do the same.

I picked up my block from the machine shop today. they balanced the UDP,flywheel,crank and rods/pistons. they also honed and checked the cylinder walls to make sure they would be ok with my pistons.They file fitted my rings and cleaned the lock and crank,cost me $460 out the door.I am lucky because everything speced in good.I bought the new JE pistons from someone on another forum because i got a great deal, if i had to do it over i would have got .20 over pistons and had the cylinder bored to match,so just keep that in mind if you are wanting to build,you might as well go .20 over and not have to worry if your cylinder will be to big.I bought a set of manley rods forged rods that were slightly used.I paid less than $800 for rods/pistons and rings shipped to my door.The crank is used as well, it is a stock crank that was pulled from a good motor when a stroker was being built, it has very low miles, my stocker was trashed from the piston hitting it.I spent another $600 with MMR to get a new windage tray, main studs,bearings and headgaskets. Spent $400 with summitt for head studs, GT500 oil pump ,new pilot bearing and some lubricants for assembly.As of now i should have everything to throw it all together.here are some picks and YES, im doing this in my dining room,LOL.im hoping i wont have to worry too much about dirt getting into everything,im still going to keep it covered at night time.





Ill post more as i make progress, tonight im letting the block air out to make sure the moisture from the cleaning is all gone.like i said,im not professional here so if anyone has tips,throw them out there.

americaniron

It's good that your motor will now be able to handle the extra power. It will provide a peace of mind. Look forward to seeing your progress.

BruceH

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mikeysGT

congrats bro. hopefully i'll see a motor build in my future as well.

Chris07GT

the dining room? Guess we aren't coming over for dinner anytime soon! I'll be watching this thread. Can't wait to see it back on the road.

kpaulhus

good luck Paul. I got a slew of parts comming in, in a few weeks so when your car is back and functional again, we can plan a fun install day and maybe take the ladies out for dinner?

david01130

nice! post some pics along the way.

pascal

Good luck Paul.
It's actually fun to build your own mill...

one eyed willy

im using this book to help on the assembly,its not a real good book to be honest,it has some specs but its not layed out that well




studs installed and tightened down using a hex head in the end



assembly lube



bearings lubed up



main caps on and crank installed, i have not torqued it down yet, im waiting to confirm the specs


some install notes***** main bearings have uppers and lowers, they are stamped on each on. thrust bearing goes at the rear of the block, the outter most part of the block between the end part of the crank and the engine block,not on the inside of the engine block.use the arp lube on the studs so they screw in nice.

one eyed willy

we dont need a dining room, we could eat in front of the TV!!